KitchenAid KDI-17A

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tinkerer

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Joined
Dec 8, 2013
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22
Hi,
I have recently inherited a KitchenAid KDI-17A from my parents and would like to replace some parts and tinker with it a bit. It's not draining fully, the wash cycle seems shorter than I remember and the dishes come out spotty. I've pulled the drain hoses apart, before and after the solenoid drain valve and they were clear. I hear the snap of the valve so it's working (but maybe not at the end of the cycle. This led me to wonder if it was the timer or the controls in the door. I checked all the fork connectors to most of the parts at the bottom of the machine.

My first quest is to find a parts/repair manual. I looked here on the website for a manual and found one for the KDI-17 Series:

"Detailed service manual for the 17 series of Kitchen Dishwashers, such as models KDS-17, KDI-17, KDC-17, KDS-57, KDI-57 and KDC-57."

but, it doesn't list the 17A. Does anyone know if I could still use this manual and are all the model parts in the 17 Series, the same?

I'd also like to find a new/used lower rack, if possible.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

View attachment tinkerer++12-8-2013-15-20-16.jpg
 
I don't see why your machine wouldn't be covered in that service manual.  An Imperial is an Imperial is an Imperial.
 
I don't see why your machine wouldn't be covered in that service manual.  An Imperial is an Imperial is an Imperial.
 
I don't see why your machine wouldn't be covered in that service manual.  An Imperial is an Imperial is an Imperial.
 
Manuals woefully lacking

I bought all 3 manuals that they had - the owner's manual, the product info and the replacement parts manual. None of these covered the 17A adequately and the replacement parts manual was not helpful. I couldn't find most of the parts because it mostly covered the rolling dishwasher. I'm thinking I need a new timer but have been unable to locate one on line. Is it hard to rebuild one?
 
repairing the timer

Hi,
Has anyone here ever rebuilt a timer assembly for a KDI-17A? I have been unable to find a used one and am hoping I might be able to do so but worry that it contains plastic gears that, by now, would be 40 years old and brittle.
 
I think this one will work.

But I would wait and see if Stevet or one of the other KA experts with better reference material could confirm. This one is 4162942 and according to repair clinic.com this one will work on your machine. It's not a bad price for a new timer and likely what you would pay someone for a used one I bet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4162942-FSP...763?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ba86bb3b
 
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Main Timer assembly for KDI-17a

Thanks for looking. I finally found a detailed enough manual on the web with a diagram. The main timer assembly part number is shown as: C115403. I'll wait to hear what the others have to say.
 
Won't wash

At first, I thought the machine needed a new timer assembly but now I'm wondering if it's something else. I start the machine on WASH (skipping soak cycle) on a full wash cycle. The machine starts, the pump squeals and pumps water up into the cabinet but the washing ends soon after, everything stops and the timer continues to click on. Eventually, the dry cycle starts. I can't figure out what's happening. The pump seems to work but the wash cycle is short and there's no rinse cycle. Any ideas as to what's wrong?

thanks.
 
After the motor stops, if you hit the Cancel/Drain button, does the motor restart and drain the dishwasher while the timer rapid advances? If not, but only the timer rapid advances to the off position, can you immediately restart the Normal wash cycle and get the motor to run again?

Have you tried other cycles besides Normal, such as Rinse & Hold?

Also, when the washing stops, does the motor sound like it is humming, or is everything quiet? Do you hear other sounds, such as the water filling, and the snap of the drain valve when it opens?
 
KDI-17 DW Problems

It sounds like you may have something caught in the drain valve which keeps the valve slightly open and allows the water to go down the drain before the valve actually opens for the drain period. When the DW goes quiet, open the door and pour 1 1/2 gallon of hot water into the bottom of the DW and restart the machine, if it again washes for a minute or so and the water disappears you will know you have a drain valve problem.

When starting this DW just latch the door and push the cycle button you want to use, DO NOT turn the timer past the soak area of the timer, also this DW does NOT have a cancel drain button, only the KDS-17s had this feature in the 17 series DWs.
 
 
Yes, as Combo52 says, do not manually advance the timer to skip anything when starting this machine for normal operation.  ALL cycles are to start directly from the beginning.  The selected button controls which functions occur through the complete timer rotation.

All cycles begin with a half-fill and drain to purge the water supply line.

The difference between Soak and Full cycle is that Soak modifies the action to have a 13-minute pause during the Prewash (Soak) phase.

Rinse Hold runs a rinse (which occurs in the Prewash section), pauses for a couple mins, then drains.  The timer progresses at normal speed (advances every minute) to Off but no further machine function occurs.
 
Now leaking

Hi-
I ran the machine 3 times through the complete cycle. The cycles seem to match those set forth in the KDI-17 Service manual except that the only time I hear the wash arm moving is during the Wash Cycle. I would expect it to also turn and spray during the Pre-Rinse and Rinse cycles.

Also, the tub is not draining properly – I end up with water in the bottom of the tub at the Dry cycle. I pulled all the hoses off and took the drain valve apart to check for any obstruction but found nothing.

My biggest problem right now is that, in looking for something causing a slow or clogged drain, I removed the wash arm support and the impeller and, when I reassembled it and started the machine, water sprayed out over the top of the pump motor below. I was sure that I had put the 2 spring washers and cap washer back in the proper order. The Service Manual also lists a key washer (is that a lock washer?) in addition to the spring washers and cap washer but I don’t recall finding one when taking the assembly apart. Would this make the difference between leaking and not? How should the (2) spring washers be placed? They look like slightly domed washers. First, I placed them, dome-side up and the unit leaked so I reinstalled them dish-side up but that didn’t stop the leak, either.

The Service Manual also states that:

“It is important that the proper clearance between the wash pump impeller and the body be maintained. A special clearance gauge tool#68594 should be used for checking this clearance. The limits of the gauge for dimension “A” are .015” “to clear” and ,025” “to touch”. Use the proper combination of shim washers to hold this gauged dimension.”

I’m sure hoping that this isn’t the problem. I have no idea where to get such a tool.

Please Advise.
 
Possible drain obstruction?

When I disassembled the drain valve, I noticed that there is a black rubber boot that its around the solenoid piston that seals the drain. It was separate from the piston. Is this supposed to be attached to the piston? I was wondering if, since eit's not attached, if it is obstructing the drain when it's open - that it's not fully retracting.
 
Putting this by the curb

I've decided to put the machine out on the curb. I can't get any advice and the parts are no longer available.
 
Drain Problems On A KD-17 Series DW

Drain valve, test it by removing and trying to blow through it, you should not be able to with the coil not energized and you can actually see through it and easily blow though it when it is energized.

Drain pump test, remove the drain valve and take a 5' length of 1/2" ID hose [ an old section of garden hose will work ] and connect to the pump outlet and put the other end in the sink. Add two gallons of water to the bottom of the DW and start the machine [ you can turn off the regular hot water supply for the DW during this test ] once the DWs motor starts the machine should completely drain in 30-45 seconds, if the drain pump has trouble doing this you probably something like a piece of glass caught in the drain pump or a torn or broken drain impeller in the drain pump.
 
Giving up so soon?

Your thread has has gotten you some responses that make a lot of sense and there ARE still parts available for this unit for the problems you are having. Drain valves were always a weak link in the chain on these machines and if you can't find a new one, many of us here will have one to get you back up and running.
Once you toss that machine, you will eventually be sorry you did!
 
thanks for responding. I have solved the leaking problem. I checked all the hoses and they're clear. I checked the drain valve and it's clear except for the question I posted earlier - the valve piston has a black rubber boot that appears to be separate from the piston. Has this boot separated from the piston and is now partially obstructing the drain? Should this boot remain attached to the piston? I can't find any exploded diagram of the drain valve to show me how this should be configured. I've looked on various websites to see other pistons that are just plastic with a black rubber washer on the end to seal the drain. Mine is not like this.

I have a feeling that this might be the problem but I was hoping that someone with experience of this particular piston design could help me. The variety of part designs has my head spinning.

If I'm to keep the machine, my next issues are going to be:

: How do I replace the filter? I'm wondering if I can go to a metal fabrication shop, save the top alum. piece and have them spin a bottom piece for me to replace the plastic one.

: what do I do if I need new electrical parts like the timer?

Thanks again for your response.
 
Filter on eBay

There's one on eBay right now for about $46. It says it's for a KDS-57A, but it will fit your machine without issue. The pump tops for the KD17 series of dishwashers were all the same, so this one will snap right in place (it looks pretty good in the pictures, and is well worth the price).

Good luck! This is a great machine & parts are still available. If you end up needing a timer check I believe I have one you could have (but based on what I've been reading it looks like you need a new drain valve. The drain valve is not really serviceable by parts any longer; the individual components would be very hard to locate. They have not been designed for field repair for a long time now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dishwasher-...975?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af395877
 
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As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Thank you for the 2 great links. I took the drain valve apart one more time and decided that the rubber boot was not the problem. I restarted the machine and, when it got to the drain portions of the cycles, I got a loud buzzing and the solenoid seized up. I tried to check to make sure that I had put the wires back correctly but was confused when I compared it to the wiring diagrams published in the manuals. My machine's drain valve has a single prong at the top with a double connector - on the top is a yellow wire that goes to the pump motor. (In the manual, it's shown as a white wire.) Below that there are 2 white wires, one connects to the fill valve and the other connects to the fan motor. The lower prong has a pink (red) wire that connects to the timer above. The set-up is such that it would be impossible to reconnect the wires wrong.

I have absolutely no idea why the drain valve stopped working but it started to smoke a little and that was the end of it. Before that, I could manually open the drain to let water out but now it's seized and not functioning.

I will order the new drain valve and hope that that solves the problem. I should also probably have someone snake the drain. It's hard-piped and getting at it will be a nightmare. I doubt that it's ever been snaked in the 40+ years that it's been here. Any other ideas as to why it draining slowly? I sure hope it's not the timer.

Thanks, again for all your wisdom.
 
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