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jacz219

Active member
Joined
Aug 3, 2018
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26
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Jeannette, PA
Hi Folks,

So last night went to wash and my superba was not superb. The motor sounds like it’s running but absolutely nothing is happening inside the tub. I clicked it over to drain and the tub drained and did not spin. It will not agitate nor spin. I’ll attach a video below of the sound it’s making. I have the lid open and i’m engaging the lid switch manually. Also the front photo is the machine I have.

Any help would be great. The last thing I want to do is replace it. It’s a beast and we all know direct drive is made to last.
 

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Hi, sounds like the drive coupling broke between the motor and transmission, as repairs go. It’s a fairly easy repair if you do it yourself or it should not be hard to get a professional to repair this as well.

The super capacity whirlpool built direct drive machines, especially those with the three speed motor like this tended to break their drive couplings more often.

There are tons of videos online that show you how to replace the drive coupling on a whirlpool built direct drive top load washer.

John L
 
Hi, sounds like the drive coupling broke between the motor and transmission, as repairs go. It’s a fairly easy repair if you do it yourself or it should not be hard to get a professional to repair this as well.

The super capacity whirlpool built direct drive machines, especially those with the three speed motor like this tended to break their drive couplings more often.

There are tons of videos online that show you how to replace the drive coupling on a whirlpool built direct drive top load washer.

John L
Hi there, i replaced the coupler about 3 years ago so that’s an easy fix. i just wanted to ask the experts before i started ordering parts. Thanks so much!
 
Hi, sounds like the drive coupling broke between the motor and transmission, as repairs go. It’s a fairly easy repair if you do it yourself or it should not be hard to get a professional to repair this as well.

The super capacity whirlpool built direct drive machines, especially those with the three speed motor like this tended to break their drive couplings more often.

There are tons of videos online that show you how to replace the drive coupling on a whirlpool built direct drive top load washer.

John L
So the coupler was fine. Started it back up it agitated and now it won’t spin but it drains.

Any thoughts?
 
One thing I loved about my TOL Whirlpool direct drive machine from 1976 was how easy it was to disassemble and service. I needed to replace the neutral drain kit as the machine would bang right into spin. It was so very easy to access everything. It took me about 1/2 hour to complete the job, with my partner helping. One thing I did notice about the direct drives, if you opened the lid during spin, and then closed it again, you would get a loud bang like a Norge solenoid, even though I know it had no spin or brake solenoids. It frightened our cat, Robby.
 
WP direct drives went on sale in 1986, having been tested and training for sales and service from 1982.
Late 1981 is when WP introduced direct-drive via Kenmore/Sears.

I worked for a local Whirlpool dealer when the first WP direct-drives were introduced. Earlier than 1986. It was model LB5500XKW0. K is model-year 1982 (L is 1983). I have an original printed-bound copy of Whirlpool service manual L-46 "Design 2000 Direct Drive Washer" which references that model. The copyright date of the publication is 1981. I can recall the names of some customers who bought an LB5500.
LB5500XKW0 and LB5500XLW0 at ServiceMatters.com

My grandmother bought a model LA7400XMW2 (M is model-year 1984) with serial C43505625 (4 is 1984 for production year). How did that happen if there were no WP models prior to 1986?
LA7400XM at ServiceMatters.com
 

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Does this model use any direct drive transmission? Or is there a particular one? I am not the handiest—but I will try and I want to save this machine. It’s better than anything new.
It appears to be a KAWE760WAL? I have that model, bought 8/27/1991. It takes a typical neutral-drain transmission. Original P/N 389246, current 3360629.

Have you tried giving the basket a turn by hand when it's supposed to be spinning to check if that gets it going?

The existing transmission, of course, must to be pulled to replace it ... so you may consider opening it to check if the spin gear is the fault. As noted above, a replacement spin gear is included with the neutral-drain repair kit, P/N 388253. The spin clutch mounts atop the transmission so that can also be checked when the transmission is pulled. The basket drive/brake/spin tube assembly fits up into the tub support accessible after the transmission is pulled (and the spin basket removed).
 
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