Our dishwasher Kitchenaid KUDA22ST3 is repaired and running again.
Details of its failure are in this archived thread:
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?42234
The dishwasher failed because the control board has P1 and P2 molex plastic female connectors to the dishwasher's wire harness male connectors that had a single terminal that was charred/burned and lost connectivity for the motor's power.
CoreCentric Solutions of Chicago inspected the board and pronounced it "unrepairable" as they had no plastic connectors for this 1991 vintage board. By policy they do not bypass/work-a-round failed connectors as they cannot provide a warranty.
I was then able to take the "unrepairable" board to a local electronics shop VY Electronics in Rochester, Minnesota, were in 30 minutes Jeff bypassed the connector by soldering a separate wire directly to the board that I then connected to the correct wire of the harness with a better gauge connector. The dishwasher has run fine since.
I understand the control boards of this KitchenAid dishwasher series often fail at the motor connectors/terminals and/or heated dry connectors/terminals between the control board and wire harness because so much current is going through a "weak link."
My interest in going through all of this was to keep the dishwasher going as it has a custom cherry wood panel which matches the rest of the kitchen cabinets/woodwork.
Hope this info may help someone with a similar problem someday.
Tom Schwab
Rochester Minnesota
Details of its failure are in this archived thread:
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?42234
The dishwasher failed because the control board has P1 and P2 molex plastic female connectors to the dishwasher's wire harness male connectors that had a single terminal that was charred/burned and lost connectivity for the motor's power.
CoreCentric Solutions of Chicago inspected the board and pronounced it "unrepairable" as they had no plastic connectors for this 1991 vintage board. By policy they do not bypass/work-a-round failed connectors as they cannot provide a warranty.
I was then able to take the "unrepairable" board to a local electronics shop VY Electronics in Rochester, Minnesota, were in 30 minutes Jeff bypassed the connector by soldering a separate wire directly to the board that I then connected to the correct wire of the harness with a better gauge connector. The dishwasher has run fine since.
I understand the control boards of this KitchenAid dishwasher series often fail at the motor connectors/terminals and/or heated dry connectors/terminals between the control board and wire harness because so much current is going through a "weak link."
My interest in going through all of this was to keep the dishwasher going as it has a custom cherry wood panel which matches the rest of the kitchen cabinets/woodwork.
Hope this info may help someone with a similar problem someday.
Tom Schwab
Rochester Minnesota