I have a 1966 lady Kenmore washer that takes a good five minutes to fully agitate and it squeaks horribly the whole time its agitating. i just recently got the washer and matching dryer and its my understanding they had been serviced in 86 and had been last used in 2000 before i got them free at an estate sale. anyone have any suggestions as to what i could do to get it working like new again?
lady kenmore having a bit of a problem getting going
- Thread starter duked
- Start date
Help Support :
First, check the belt!
It sounds like the belt may be loose and probably needs to be replaced. It's a place to start anyway. Changing the belt is not that easy, but is doable if you have any mechanical ability.
Is there any chance you can post photos of your Lady K set?
Kevin
It sounds like the belt may be loose and probably needs to be replaced. It's a place to start anyway. Changing the belt is not that easy, but is doable if you have any mechanical ability.
Is there any chance you can post photos of your Lady K set?
Kevin
dustin92
Well-known member
maybe replace the belt?
Check it first (through the panel at the rear of the machine) make sure it's not too loose. but yes it can be replaced, but as I said, it's not supre easy and if you've never done it before, it could take 45 mins to an hour.
Kevin
Kevin
cphifer5115
Well-known member
here is a belt for WP and KM belt drive washers I found. but this site will also let you put in your model number and can check for sure.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/A...l-washing-machine--item-number-AP2914771.aspx
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/A...l-washing-machine--item-number-AP2914771.aspx
as for pictures of the set here are a couple as you can see they are in very good shape only slight surface rust where the panals join and everything is there except the a button on the washer. got the set for free from the kids of the original owners. they even came with ALL the original paperwork even down to the little clorox bleaching guide.
cphifer5115
Well-known member
it might be something with the wig wag control solenoid. you should seek the advice of kenmoreguy64 he seems to be the guru on the WP KM belt drive machines.
powerfin64
Well-known member
dryer--
I have that same Lady K Dryer, except mine is a 65, love mine, thou it's not in use right now.
Rich
I have that same Lady K Dryer, except mine is a 65, love mine, thou it's not in use right now.
Rich
yeah its much better than the 2003 Frigidaire its replacing gets clothes dry in about 30 minutes compared to an hour and a half for the Frigidaire. unfortunately its electric and the Frigidaire is gas so its has to stay tethered to the electrical panel in a store room instead of the laundry room hoping to maybe replace the Frigidaire set with another older set maybe something in an avocado lol.
its playing with me now lol. was gonna make a video of the problem yesterday and when tried to film it it worked perfectly 4 washes in a row.tonight threw an afghan in the wash and it took twenty minutes to get it to start agitating right. for about 15 minutes it was its usual weak agitate and clunk clunk clunk. then about 5 minutes of agitating in one direction before finally locking in. luckly i had camera ready if anyone thinks it would be helpful i can edit the video and put it on youtube.
cphifer5115
Well-known member
it couldn't hurt to put it on youtube. I am sure one of these experts in here will know what to do once they see it in action and hear the sounds it's making. I am wondering though if maybe the motor is getting the proper current going to it. I know one time my mom's washer was pluged into an old light circut that causes the motor to burn up.
kenmoreman
Well-known member
Agitation
If the agitator is making a clunk/clunk noise before it finally kicks in then you have a bad gearcase. The sector gear has a tooth missing and it will barely agitate until it finally engages then it will stay in gear till the machine empties. It won't always do it at first but will get worse as time goes on. Replaciong the gearcase will solve the problem. I think you will find I'm right. I would welcome Gordon's opinion. Regards Kenmoreman
If the agitator is making a clunk/clunk noise before it finally kicks in then you have a bad gearcase. The sector gear has a tooth missing and it will barely agitate until it finally engages then it will stay in gear till the machine empties. It won't always do it at first but will get worse as time goes on. Replaciong the gearcase will solve the problem. I think you will find I'm right. I would welcome Gordon's opinion. Regards Kenmoreman
kenmoreman
Well-known member
I would work on obtaining a replacement transmission first. The one you have is a very common 14lb standard transmission. It is very rare that one out of a parts machine is bad. These were very good units and the problem you have is not a common one. Don't be afraid of using an old one. You can probably get a good used or rebuilt one from a parts center for a reasonable price. If you need help with replacing it you can contact me and I can help run you thru it. Kenmoreman
Hi Duke,
What you have is a 1965 model Lady K set. They were very popular and very likely in production well into 1966.
I don't know what to tell you about the loud squeal, except I would suspect the basket drive pulley. Are you still having that problem? If so, does it go away when the machine goes into spin?
As to the transmission that does not properly engage, I have heard of this a few times. Try pushing down on the agitator and see if that firmly makes it engage. If it does, then the one or both (probably both) of the springs that push down on the drive gear have either rusted and broken or fatigued.
On a healthy belt-drive transmission, engagement of agitate is accompanied by a loud slapping sound, which is made by the drive gear dropping down onto the agitator shaft hubs. These are two large, pinky-finger diameter hubs that protrude from the agitator shaft by about 1/2 inch. There is a strong spring above the drive gear in between it and the cover of the transmission, and another slightly smaller gear around the wigwag post. Both gears in concert act to put a great deal of downward force on the drive gear, and when the gaps in the drive gear meet the hubs in the agitator shaft, they come together rather forcefully and agitation is engaged and will stay that way until the wigwag cam bar activation causes the drive gear to be pulled back up (still under load of the springs) and become separated from the shaft hubs.
When the springs begin to go bad, the engagement becomes less forceful, and eventually the moving drive gear will slip over the top of the hubs and cause a knocking or minimal agitation. If the transmission is smooth and quiet once it finally engages, I myself would not hestitate to take it apart and replace the springs. However I did see one once that had chewed up shaft hubs from so much slippage and the shaft had to be replaced (now NLA). IT IS NOT EASY TO REINSTALL THE AGITATOR CAM BAR WHEN NEW SPRINGS ARE INSTALLED. By far the easiest thing to do is replace the transmission for another one if you can locate one.
Gordon
What you have is a 1965 model Lady K set. They were very popular and very likely in production well into 1966.
I don't know what to tell you about the loud squeal, except I would suspect the basket drive pulley. Are you still having that problem? If so, does it go away when the machine goes into spin?
As to the transmission that does not properly engage, I have heard of this a few times. Try pushing down on the agitator and see if that firmly makes it engage. If it does, then the one or both (probably both) of the springs that push down on the drive gear have either rusted and broken or fatigued.
On a healthy belt-drive transmission, engagement of agitate is accompanied by a loud slapping sound, which is made by the drive gear dropping down onto the agitator shaft hubs. These are two large, pinky-finger diameter hubs that protrude from the agitator shaft by about 1/2 inch. There is a strong spring above the drive gear in between it and the cover of the transmission, and another slightly smaller gear around the wigwag post. Both gears in concert act to put a great deal of downward force on the drive gear, and when the gaps in the drive gear meet the hubs in the agitator shaft, they come together rather forcefully and agitation is engaged and will stay that way until the wigwag cam bar activation causes the drive gear to be pulled back up (still under load of the springs) and become separated from the shaft hubs.
When the springs begin to go bad, the engagement becomes less forceful, and eventually the moving drive gear will slip over the top of the hubs and cause a knocking or minimal agitation. If the transmission is smooth and quiet once it finally engages, I myself would not hestitate to take it apart and replace the springs. However I did see one once that had chewed up shaft hubs from so much slippage and the shaft had to be replaced (now NLA). IT IS NOT EASY TO REINSTALL THE AGITATOR CAM BAR WHEN NEW SPRINGS ARE INSTALLED. By far the easiest thing to do is replace the transmission for another one if you can locate one.
Gordon
i think we have a winner started the machine tried pushing down but couldn't get a good grip (but it was helping. so stopped machine pushed down real hard then clunk clunk and it kicked in. ans bonus got this whole process on video.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bazV0GjeTEo
Hi again Duke -
Well, I am glad we figured out the source of your problem. The machine sounds nicely healthy other than the broken spring issue.
I recommend you put the agitator cap back on. It will allow air to escape from the centerpost and potentially flood it with water, which can damage the bearings and allow water inside the transmission. If the machine was run that way often, it might explain the rusted/broken springs in the gearcase actually. Once the cap and detergent cup are back on, it will be a lot easier to press down on the agitator. Do that from straight above the agitator if you can.
GREAT video - that's what I needed to be sure of your problem.
Now we need to solve the problem for you, which is going to entail either a repair of that transmission, OR a replacement.
Just out of curiosity, have you tried to remove the agitator?
Gordon
Well, I am glad we figured out the source of your problem. The machine sounds nicely healthy other than the broken spring issue.
I recommend you put the agitator cap back on. It will allow air to escape from the centerpost and potentially flood it with water, which can damage the bearings and allow water inside the transmission. If the machine was run that way often, it might explain the rusted/broken springs in the gearcase actually. Once the cap and detergent cup are back on, it will be a lot easier to press down on the agitator. Do that from straight above the agitator if you can.
GREAT video - that's what I needed to be sure of your problem.
Now we need to solve the problem for you, which is going to entail either a repair of that transmission, OR a replacement.
Just out of curiosity, have you tried to remove the agitator?
Gordon
kenmoreman
Well-known member
Agitator and transmission
I don't envy you getting that agitator off. Boy do I miss the old agitator drive blocks. I would suggest filling the cavity where the cap came off with some penetrating oil and letting it sit for a couple of days. On this vintage of direct spline vs block you have one thing going for you. The transmission shafts were less prone to rust than the later models on the spline (better metal). You may get lucky and have an agitator that you can reuse. I agree with Gordon that rebuilding the old tranny is not something worth pursuing! Replacing the agitate cam bar is nothing less than h--l!! without the correct tools. This washer you have still has some of the best qualities of manufacture that whirlpool ever put out. It can definately be brought back. I would also suggest replacing the pump and belt if you end up using it as a daily driver. I worked on these machines when they were still in the field and had to rebuild many when they were under contract with Sears so nothing suprises me when you start doing major repairs. Have fun with this! Regards Kenmoreman
I don't envy you getting that agitator off. Boy do I miss the old agitator drive blocks. I would suggest filling the cavity where the cap came off with some penetrating oil and letting it sit for a couple of days. On this vintage of direct spline vs block you have one thing going for you. The transmission shafts were less prone to rust than the later models on the spline (better metal). You may get lucky and have an agitator that you can reuse. I agree with Gordon that rebuilding the old tranny is not something worth pursuing! Replacing the agitate cam bar is nothing less than h--l!! without the correct tools. This washer you have still has some of the best qualities of manufacture that whirlpool ever put out. It can definately be brought back. I would also suggest replacing the pump and belt if you end up using it as a daily driver. I worked on these machines when they were still in the field and had to rebuild many when they were under contract with Sears so nothing suprises me when you start doing major repairs. Have fun with this! Regards Kenmoreman
LK WASHER TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS
Yes it sounds like you have a broken spring in your transmission. There is a 99% chance that a little water has leaked down the agitator shaft and the spring rusted and broke, the springs do not get weak in the HD transmissions that were made 1964 and later. The transmission will need to be rebuilt or just replace it with a newer [ water free ] one or you can still buy a good rebuilt one for only around $100. You will still have to figure how the water got in there and address that issue. Most likely you will need to replace the spin tube and the other center post seals at a minimum to have a good long term repair. You are right that when the agitator engages the agitator gear drops down on the pin thats pressed through the agitator shaft, so pulling up on the agitator may help a reluctant transmission to engage the agitator pushing down will never work.
Yes it sounds like you have a broken spring in your transmission. There is a 99% chance that a little water has leaked down the agitator shaft and the spring rusted and broke, the springs do not get weak in the HD transmissions that were made 1964 and later. The transmission will need to be rebuilt or just replace it with a newer [ water free ] one or you can still buy a good rebuilt one for only around $100. You will still have to figure how the water got in there and address that issue. Most likely you will need to replace the spin tube and the other center post seals at a minimum to have a good long term repair. You are right that when the agitator engages the agitator gear drops down on the pin thats pressed through the agitator shaft, so pulling up on the agitator may help a reluctant transmission to engage the agitator pushing down will never work.
Similar threads
