Lady Kenmore Transmission Help
- Thread starter lebron
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Help Support :
Yes indeed, that is it!!!
You may have to loosen the gearcase quite a few turns on the bolts, but bring it down enough that you can lift up on the yoke, get the spring out of there, put the yoke back, and put the spring on top.
My trick to getting the cotter pin in:
Put the tip of the pin securely in a pair of needlenose pliers. Use your left hand fingers or a long flat bladed screw driver to hold the spring, and compress it a bit if you can. With the cotter pin still in the pliers, push until it snaps into the groove. Make sure it doesn't get threaded into the spring itself, it needs to be on top of the spring. I find this easiest to do with the gearcase and basket drive out of the machine. If you can't or don't want to do that, it is doable just awkward while the drive is still installed.
Good luck!!
G
You may have to loosen the gearcase quite a few turns on the bolts, but bring it down enough that you can lift up on the yoke, get the spring out of there, put the yoke back, and put the spring on top.
My trick to getting the cotter pin in:
Put the tip of the pin securely in a pair of needlenose pliers. Use your left hand fingers or a long flat bladed screw driver to hold the spring, and compress it a bit if you can. With the cotter pin still in the pliers, push until it snaps into the groove. Make sure it doesn't get threaded into the spring itself, it needs to be on top of the spring. I find this easiest to do with the gearcase and basket drive out of the machine. If you can't or don't want to do that, it is doable just awkward while the drive is still installed.
Good luck!!
G
Here is how I have the machine now. I couldn't get the cotter pin on with the drive in the machine so I had to take it out and I was successful. Unfortunately the spin still binds to a stop when the bolts are tightened albeit a little less so. How does the brake look now? Would adjusting this nut help anything?
Jed -
The cotter pin installation looks good from what I can see.
You're missing the big spring on the other side now. It goes in the hole on the yoke, and the hole immediately under the cam bar. You'll need a pair of pliers for that too.
I wouldn't adjust the nut if you can avoid it unless it got moved during the work. If you're using the same cam bar, same support shaft, same basket drive, the position of that nut should be left where it was I think.
Are the bearings well oiled?
I know the spring will have a lot to do with proper spin, but I can't say for sure its causing all the remaining issue or not --- I don't know if I ever tried a machine without one.
The cotter pin installation looks good from what I can see.
You're missing the big spring on the other side now. It goes in the hole on the yoke, and the hole immediately under the cam bar. You'll need a pair of pliers for that too.
I wouldn't adjust the nut if you can avoid it unless it got moved during the work. If you're using the same cam bar, same support shaft, same basket drive, the position of that nut should be left where it was I think.
Are the bearings well oiled?
I know the spring will have a lot to do with proper spin, but I can't say for sure its causing all the remaining issue or not --- I don't know if I ever tried a machine without one.
All right well I got that spring back on and even with both springs installed correctly the machine still won't spin. I've pretty much exhausted all my ideas and since I've never worked on a bd KM I don't know where to go from here.
Mb order that new white T bearing? Right now I have been trying with the metal collar and bronze t bearing.
Mb order that new white T bearing? Right now I have been trying with the metal collar and bronze t bearing.
Jed -
Here is what I would do if this were my problem:
1) Remove the basket and drive block if they're attached.
2) Remove the belt from the pulleys
3) Lower the gearcase and make sure that both bearings are liberally seeped in turbine oil. Skip this if you know there is enough oil in there.
4) With the transmission down about 1/2 inch from tight, set the machine upright and follow my suggestion in the link you found last night.
5) Raise the gearcase and re-tighten the bolts in a pattern like you'd tighten the bolts on a tire (the tire bolt tightening pattern is meant to avoid the same binding that you may be experiencing here).
6) Put it back together and make sure the belt is TIGHT. This belt needs to be quite a bit tighter than the big belt that most BDs use.
Without seeing the machine in person, I suspect you have the spin tube in a bind.
An idea - move the machine from neutral to the spin position by holding up the spin plunger and rotating the drive pulley. Make sure the cam bar moves all the way in both directions and that the yoke support is moving with it.
Here is what I would do if this were my problem:
1) Remove the basket and drive block if they're attached.
2) Remove the belt from the pulleys
3) Lower the gearcase and make sure that both bearings are liberally seeped in turbine oil. Skip this if you know there is enough oil in there.
4) With the transmission down about 1/2 inch from tight, set the machine upright and follow my suggestion in the link you found last night.
5) Raise the gearcase and re-tighten the bolts in a pattern like you'd tighten the bolts on a tire (the tire bolt tightening pattern is meant to avoid the same binding that you may be experiencing here).
6) Put it back together and make sure the belt is TIGHT. This belt needs to be quite a bit tighter than the big belt that most BDs use.
Without seeing the machine in person, I suspect you have the spin tube in a bind.
An idea - move the machine from neutral to the spin position by holding up the spin plunger and rotating the drive pulley. Make sure the cam bar moves all the way in both directions and that the yoke support is moving with it.
Jed -
The bearings are at the top and lower end of the centerpost. The lower one is just a few inches up from where you insert the spintube / transmission. The top bearing is just below the top rim of the centerpost. You can feel them with your fingers - they're just solid sleeve bearings.
They're going to be black and goopey most likely when you check them. I would wipe them down, and put the turbine oil ABOVE each bearing so that when the machine is upright, the oil coats the spin tube and seeps into the space between the bearing and the spin tube.
Good luck tomorrow.
Maybe John has some other suggestions?
By the way - take a picture for me of the basket drive spin tube when you can. I want to see if it is corroded at all.
Gordon
The bearings are at the top and lower end of the centerpost. The lower one is just a few inches up from where you insert the spintube / transmission. The top bearing is just below the top rim of the centerpost. You can feel them with your fingers - they're just solid sleeve bearings.
They're going to be black and goopey most likely when you check them. I would wipe them down, and put the turbine oil ABOVE each bearing so that when the machine is upright, the oil coats the spin tube and seeps into the space between the bearing and the spin tube.
Good luck tomorrow.
Maybe John has some other suggestions?
By the way - take a picture for me of the basket drive spin tube when you can. I want to see if it is corroded at all.
Gordon
Here are some pics of the transmission and drive assembly. Maybe you can see something off. I have observed that pulling up on the spin plunger pulls the cam towards the plunger and lowers the drive. Is this the correct operation? I assume it is because the machine can spin with a loose tranny
Won't agitate either?
Hi Jed, I am the member who Gordon was referring to regarding a recent transmission rebuild. I'm sorry your having such a difficult time. I got a little lost in the sequence of events, but did you say that the machine will not agitate as well when the transmission mounting bolts are fully in? If so there is something else wrong, and I think the T-bearing has something to do with it. Gordon/John please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the bronze bearing will work with this transmission. Also, I didn't see the spacer in the bolt that sits next to the yoke (but that could be my eyes!). If the spacer is missing that can also cause a bind as the transmission is pushed up too far on that side.
Just some thoughts. Good luck!
Hi Jed, I am the member who Gordon was referring to regarding a recent transmission rebuild. I'm sorry your having such a difficult time. I got a little lost in the sequence of events, but did you say that the machine will not agitate as well when the transmission mounting bolts are fully in? If so there is something else wrong, and I think the T-bearing has something to do with it. Gordon/John please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the bronze bearing will work with this transmission. Also, I didn't see the spacer in the bolt that sits next to the yoke (but that could be my eyes!). If the spacer is missing that can also cause a bind as the transmission is pushed up too far on that side.
Just some thoughts. Good luck!
Hi alan thank you for your response. Im not sure about it not agitating. I filled it once with water and it wouldnt with the transmission comepletely tight. I assume it would work when it was lose but maybe that is a poor assumption. Interesting comment concerning the t bearing. Right now i am using the steel collar and bronze t that came with this transmission. Maybe i should order the new white one? Finally which bolt are you referring to that is missing the spacer? The large bolt that has the clutch adjustment nut? What can i use as a spacer? Where does the spacer belong?
Good morning Jed --- what's left of it...
I looked at your pictures, I don't see anything glaring at me in regard to the install of the basket drive on the gearcase, and I looked at the centerpost inside pics too.
It looks like you may have some rust developing inside the centerpost, but some of the grease WP used was reddish orange, so that stuff immediately above be bearing may be grease, I can't say for sure. You may be wise to replace the centerpost seal at the very top, that is a large part of what allows water into the centerpost, that and the spin tube seal.
Your spin tube is not damaged or corroded, which is great. Clean it well and re-lube it, it looks VERY dry, as do the bearings. Drop about a teaspoon of turbine oil above each bearing, and put more on the bearing surfaces and liberally all over the spin tube (once you clean it). Oil the bearings with the machine on its side and don't upright it until the spin tube is in or the oil will run out.
In pic number 31, that circular spot is the braking surface for the brake pad to rub against. The brake pad is on the top of the basket drive. Clean both well and you'll have a more effective brake. Don't be surprised if when you finally have the machine running properly, that you hear a bit of grit during the braking process. This happens sometimes after "major surgery". Little grains of dirt leftover from all the work amplify themselves seemingly 1000 times when they're in between the brake components, and you hear it all over the machine. They work themselves out eventually.
The reason the machine spins with the gearcase loose is because the basket drive parts are tightly gripping each other until the final few turns of the trans bolts. These last few turns do the same thing as pushing in a car clutch pedal. This last distance is what brings the clutch pads off the pulley surface. It will also engage the brake.
Al brings up an interesting point --- the spacer should have fallen out as soon as you removed the lowest of the three gearcase bolts. It often makes a racket on the cabinet when that bolt comes out. Out of curiosity, how many unused parts do you have left? If you haven't been using the spacer on the short leg of the three gearcase mounting rods, chances are very good that you'll have the gearcase in a major bind. The short one of the three is the one facing the front of the cabinet. Put the spacer in the gap between the transmission and the mounting stud, and thread the bolt though the gearcase hole and the spacer. It should properly tighten together.
Let us know what's next Jed!
Gordon
I looked at your pictures, I don't see anything glaring at me in regard to the install of the basket drive on the gearcase, and I looked at the centerpost inside pics too.
It looks like you may have some rust developing inside the centerpost, but some of the grease WP used was reddish orange, so that stuff immediately above be bearing may be grease, I can't say for sure. You may be wise to replace the centerpost seal at the very top, that is a large part of what allows water into the centerpost, that and the spin tube seal.
Your spin tube is not damaged or corroded, which is great. Clean it well and re-lube it, it looks VERY dry, as do the bearings. Drop about a teaspoon of turbine oil above each bearing, and put more on the bearing surfaces and liberally all over the spin tube (once you clean it). Oil the bearings with the machine on its side and don't upright it until the spin tube is in or the oil will run out.
In pic number 31, that circular spot is the braking surface for the brake pad to rub against. The brake pad is on the top of the basket drive. Clean both well and you'll have a more effective brake. Don't be surprised if when you finally have the machine running properly, that you hear a bit of grit during the braking process. This happens sometimes after "major surgery". Little grains of dirt leftover from all the work amplify themselves seemingly 1000 times when they're in between the brake components, and you hear it all over the machine. They work themselves out eventually.
The reason the machine spins with the gearcase loose is because the basket drive parts are tightly gripping each other until the final few turns of the trans bolts. These last few turns do the same thing as pushing in a car clutch pedal. This last distance is what brings the clutch pads off the pulley surface. It will also engage the brake.
Al brings up an interesting point --- the spacer should have fallen out as soon as you removed the lowest of the three gearcase bolts. It often makes a racket on the cabinet when that bolt comes out. Out of curiosity, how many unused parts do you have left? If you haven't been using the spacer on the short leg of the three gearcase mounting rods, chances are very good that you'll have the gearcase in a major bind. The short one of the three is the one facing the front of the cabinet. Put the spacer in the gap between the transmission and the mounting stud, and thread the bolt though the gearcase hole and the spacer. It should properly tighten together.
Let us know what's next Jed!
Gordon
Bob Dylan!
That's a good reason to put off the project. Great musician! Enjoy the concert!
That's a good reason to put off the project. Great musician! Enjoy the concert!
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