Last 101P Update Before Finishing ...

[geoffdelp]

Hi all ... promise; here's my last update on the 101P before I finish the restoration.

Had success today. I figured out what the "screaming" was; it was the pump. Robert, you were right! I took the pump off and now it's a 101 ... without a "P"!! I think the bearing housing might be bad; not too sure at this point.

Was able to easily remove the T-key, clean it and then turn it over for reinsertion. It spins great!! It starts at about 50 r.p.m. (according to service manual) and then ramps up to 618 r.p.m. It "grunted" a little bit, but after repeated attempts, made no unusual noises.

Agitation is great! It is so quiet; it's hard to tell if it's running.

Timer is bad; it won't advance. Also, it allows machine to agitate when it is in the "Off" spot; that should not happen. I'm going to hunt for a replacement.

Waiting for new parts from Maytag; hopefully this week. I should be able to get it out onto the driveway this coming weekend and try a full load of hot, hot, water to clean and "loosen" everything up. Can't wait!!!

I am taking pictures and when she's painted and in her new home, I'll post the process.

Thanks for listening AND for the support!! I think I love my Maytag!!

Geoff

 

[retromom]

*Mom* loves Maytag too!

Geoff:

I think I love your Maytag too! Can't wait to see her in all her glory! Good luck on the remaining restoration!

Venus

 

[Unimatic1140]

Hi Geoff congrats on your wonderful success so far, isn't it satisfying to know that you've done all the work yourself!

First I would leave the pump connected and run hot water through it. What I mean is fill the wash tub with VERY HOT water and spin it out and let the pump do its job by pumping out the hot water. This might soften the grease and quiet it down.

Also, it allows machine to agitate when it is in the "Off" spot; that should not happen.

Did you jump out the lid switch? Maytag AMPs will do that with the lid switch jumped and the lid open, (power still flows though the water level mercury switch) you just have to be sure to push the knob in.

If you have another timer, with a similar timer motor you can easily switch them.

 

[geoffdelp]

It IS satisfying to know that I'm solving these problems. What's difficult is not being able to work on it all at once; I have to do it when I'm home and the yard and flowers are not calling me to water them (especially in this heat!!).

Robert, I haven't jumped the lid switch yet. I wanted to get it all "right" before I modified anything.

I do have a new timer, but it's a little different. The wires on the back of the new timer are different; there are two black wires that are connected to the timer and have the "solderless connections". On the old timer, there are two "connections" to place solderless wires into; one orange (which terminates to the other side of the timer) and one red (which terminates into a double-connection that goes into the light harness). Otherwise, both of these timers are the same! It's even the same part number; 2-14. They are manufactured by two different companies and I have to believe that Maytag changed the service angle on these timers; but I'll be doggoned if I can figure out how to get it to work properly. Driving me nuts (short trip, too!!).

I guess I can't damage the pump too much if I put it back on and run hot, hot water through it. Should I try to put a drop or two of 3-in-1 around the wheel? It looks like I could screw the wheel off; maybe get a drop or two of oil in the bushing?

 

[Unimatic1140]

Geoff if you can get oil in there without too much disassembly of the pump, go for it, it certainly wont hurt.

As for the new timer, what is the problem that "you can't get it to work" does it not fit properly? Wire colors and config might be different between the makers of timers, but they should all work the same.

 

[geoffdelp]

Robert ... well, it's the wire configuration. It fits where it should go - perfectly. It's like I said ... the new timer has two black wires coming out of the back of the timer motor with solderless connections and no where for me to conntect them to!! The old timer had a connection where an orange wire connected to it and the orange wire was on the opposite side of the timer - sort of like it terminated itself. It had a connection where a red wire went into it and that red wire terminated into a two wire connection that went into the light harness.

I really don't know where to put the two black wires on the new timer - they are a part of the timer and I don't see where I can send them to terminate the connection. Whereas on the old timer, the timer only had the "connection" and the wires terminated to it.

Does that make sense? I'm confused!!

 

[Unimatic1140]

Strange that those timer motor wires were not connected already. One of those wires needs to go into the hot side (black), the other needs to go into the neutral side (white), it doesn't matter which wire goes where as long as one is hot and one is neutral.

Can you take some close up pictures of the old new timers?

 

[geoffdelp]

Robert ... yeah; I can take a digital camera home tonight and get close-ups of both and the harnesses.

If you can help guide me, I would be MOST grateful!!!

Geof