Laundry Detergent Formula Differences
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Besides using low or nil foaming surfactants
Along with anti-foaming agents "HE" detergents need to be able to reach proper levels of chemical action using less product in obviously lower water levels. They must also rinse using lower water levels as well.
High diution detergents such as older formulas of Tide and others are meant for just that; to be used in top loading washing machines/methods using a lot of water. This is why the old adage about using "less" high dilution type of detergent in a front loader may not always give best results.
If you look at "controlled" sudsing detergents of old such as Dash, Bold, All, Gain, they relied upon a blend of low foaming surfactants (nonionic) and anti-foaming agents (soap, oils, etc...). This may or may not have included a blend of anionic surfactants (high sudsing but better for cleaning certain soils).
Today Persil and virtually most detergents for "HE" washing machines use a blend of anionic and nonionic surfactants for optimal cleaning along with froth control agents (usually silicones).
Back in the day you would find directions on many detergent boxes giving dosages for a wide range of washers; top loading, front loading, wringer, and even semi-automatic (twin tubs). You basically used less for front loaders and more for top.
From my box of vintage All with the Three B's
Top loading automatics - 3/4 - 1 cup
Front loading automatics - 1/2 cup
Wringer washers - start with 1 cup, then add 1/2 cup more for each time water is reused.
You can see for front loaders that is still quite a lot of detergent. Using that much product today of even a "HE" detergent would likely cause problems.
Along with anti-foaming agents "HE" detergents need to be able to reach proper levels of chemical action using less product in obviously lower water levels. They must also rinse using lower water levels as well.
High diution detergents such as older formulas of Tide and others are meant for just that; to be used in top loading washing machines/methods using a lot of water. This is why the old adage about using "less" high dilution type of detergent in a front loader may not always give best results.
If you look at "controlled" sudsing detergents of old such as Dash, Bold, All, Gain, they relied upon a blend of low foaming surfactants (nonionic) and anti-foaming agents (soap, oils, etc...). This may or may not have included a blend of anionic surfactants (high sudsing but better for cleaning certain soils).
Today Persil and virtually most detergents for "HE" washing machines use a blend of anionic and nonionic surfactants for optimal cleaning along with froth control agents (usually silicones).
Back in the day you would find directions on many detergent boxes giving dosages for a wide range of washers; top loading, front loading, wringer, and even semi-automatic (twin tubs). You basically used less for front loaders and more for top.
From my box of vintage All with the Three B's
Top loading automatics - 3/4 - 1 cup
Front loading automatics - 1/2 cup
Wringer washers - start with 1 cup, then add 1/2 cup more for each time water is reused.
You can see for front loaders that is still quite a lot of detergent. Using that much product today of even a "HE" detergent would likely cause problems.
Launderess correct me if I'm wrong ...
I would also add that "HE" detergents contains more anti-redeposition agents to avoid dirt to settle back on garments also in a "HE" machines or European machine with long lasting cycles and low water usage.
I would also add that "HE" detergents contains more anti-redeposition agents to avoid dirt to settle back on garments also in a "HE" machines or European machine with long lasting cycles and low water usage.
Depends upon what you call "HE"
European detergents like Persil are designed for front loading washing machines and dosages are given accordingly. You will probably need to increase the amount used by a good measure to achieve decent results in a top-loader.
OTOH what many American detergents call "HE" can also be used in top-loading washing machines, high-efficiency or not. In fact I never use even the minimal dosage of any Tide "HE" product in my Miele or AEG. Just too much froth and very hard to rinse.
Harm? Don't think so. If you don't use enough your laundry might not be as clean as it should, but then you'll no to use more next time.
European detergents like Persil are designed for front loading washing machines and dosages are given accordingly. You will probably need to increase the amount used by a good measure to achieve decent results in a top-loader.
OTOH what many American detergents call "HE" can also be used in top-loading washing machines, high-efficiency or not. In fact I never use even the minimal dosage of any Tide "HE" product in my Miele or AEG. Just too much froth and very hard to rinse.
Harm? Don't think so. If you don't use enough your laundry might not be as clean as it should, but then you'll no to use more next time.
electron1100
Well-known member
Suds
Ever since I got a front loading machine (about 1981) Ariel And Persil have always been very sudsy powders to use, there is no reason for them to be so, lather inhibitors are nothing unusual, I used to have a pot of it that I would put a table spoon of in the wash when using the Ariel or Persil.
Maybe the manufacturers think the public want to see suds.
I have also used "HE" type powders in top loaders and twin tubs with no problems, only increasing the amount for the amount of water.
Gary
Ever since I got a front loading machine (about 1981) Ariel And Persil have always been very sudsy powders to use, there is no reason for them to be so, lather inhibitors are nothing unusual, I used to have a pot of it that I would put a table spoon of in the wash when using the Ariel or Persil.
Maybe the manufacturers think the public want to see suds.
I have also used "HE" type powders in top loaders and twin tubs with no problems, only increasing the amount for the amount of water.
Gary
arbilab
Well-known member
Kroger quit carrying HE powders so I switched to a half scoop of Tide Ultra Original (scent). Plus a tablespoon of STPP.
This is in a small Chinese twintub/washplate. Which works just like a Waring blendor and 'should' be a suds tornado but it's not. TT, you have to stick your hand in the washwater so you know how slippery it is. VERY. A LOT of surfactancy. That plus soak time (more than agitate) gives very good results. But it never foams up. Just a thin layer of suspended groad, about right for my laundry cycle; I use stuff until it is visibly dirty.
Spin/rinse plus fill/agitate rinse, nearly clear final rinsewater. Our water here is on the high side of medium hard. Dissolved solids in the low PPT (parts per thousand) range.
You know how complicated the laundry formula is. This is only a datapoint. Something perhaps to try.
This is in a small Chinese twintub/washplate. Which works just like a Waring blendor and 'should' be a suds tornado but it's not. TT, you have to stick your hand in the washwater so you know how slippery it is. VERY. A LOT of surfactancy. That plus soak time (more than agitate) gives very good results. But it never foams up. Just a thin layer of suspended groad, about right for my laundry cycle; I use stuff until it is visibly dirty.
Spin/rinse plus fill/agitate rinse, nearly clear final rinsewater. Our water here is on the high side of medium hard. Dissolved solids in the low PPT (parts per thousand) range.
You know how complicated the laundry formula is. This is only a datapoint. Something perhaps to try.
