LG washer died - look for old direct drive?
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The moisture sensor is a pair of metal bars on the filter housing at lower front of the loading port, facing into the drum. Look in there to see them, or use a mirror or phone camera for an easier view. A very low-voltage electric circuit is completed when damp clothes brush across the bars to trigger a moisture "hit." The control board registers the hits to determine when and how often to trigger the timer to move.
Disconnect the exhaust duct and measure the air temperature blowing out at high setting with an instant-read kitchen thermometer or whatever you may have. It should reach 155°F and swing up/down around that temp as the heating element cycles on/off. Running a full load of already-dry clothes for the test will help moderate the up/down swing (the clothes retain heat).
I cleaned the moisture sensor bars with rubbing alcohol. they didn't seem very dirty. I measured the temp at the outlet with an instant-read thermometer (on cotton/high heat, dry clothes) and got 155-160 degrees.
Just put a wet load in and am trying the moisture sensor again. The washer is so fast! I'm three loads behind now waiting on the dryer to dry lol! A new problem after the hours-long cycles on the LG FL.
Just put a wet load in and am trying the moisture sensor again. The washer is so fast! I'm three loads behind now waiting on the dryer to dry lol! A new problem after the hours-long cycles on the LG FL.
Slow dryer
90% of the time when a dryer is slow there’s a problem with the exhaust venting system.
First thing to try is to disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer and see how well it dries for a few loads.
If that makes a huge improvement clean the exhaust system.
A dirty moisture sensor will never cause a dryer to take a longer time to dry, it might cause it not to shut off.
In my 40+ years of fixing dryers I don’t think I’ve ever seen a dirty moisture sensor in a dryer.
Also consider that switching to an older direct drive washer that only spins at 640 RPMs is going to noticeably increase the drying time compared to a modern front load washer.
John
90% of the time when a dryer is slow there’s a problem with the exhaust venting system.
First thing to try is to disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer and see how well it dries for a few loads.
If that makes a huge improvement clean the exhaust system.
A dirty moisture sensor will never cause a dryer to take a longer time to dry, it might cause it not to shut off.
In my 40+ years of fixing dryers I don’t think I’ve ever seen a dirty moisture sensor in a dryer.
Also consider that switching to an older direct drive washer that only spins at 640 RPMs is going to noticeably increase the drying time compared to a modern front load washer.
John
yes, the dryer exhaust isn't a problem - it's a short run and I cleaned it out. I think you've hit the nail on the head - the clothes do feel more wet coming out of the top loader. The automatic drying system isn't working at all but the timed dry is fine. I'd like to get that working so I need to sleuth it out. Or call a repairman who works on old machines.
Could be a wiring issue aswell. If the connection between the module and the sensor is broken, the module will of course never see a "hit" on the dryer sensor if the sensor is shorted by damp laundry, but the signal is broken by a missing connection.
You'd need a multimeter to check that.
Disconnect the wires from the sensor to the module on the module side and check with one tip connected to one sensor bar and one to one lead for continuity (so a low "Ohm" setting or just continuity test).
Do that to both sides - one lead should be connected to one bar, the other to the other with a very low resistance.
The leads to each other should be open line.
If that is true the fault basically has to be with the board.
Since the exhaust temp is kept correctly and the cooldown is ended correctly apparently (the 3min should include the minimum cooldown period of 2min) the NTC is probably fine.
So the fault you are describing is the moisture sensor thinking there is no load most likely - which means the signal is broken somewhere, either in the wiring or on the board.
If the wiring checks OK take a look at the board.
Since a lot of components appear to be through-hole on this board, soldering them off or on is easy enough for anyone who knows how to solder.
A burnt or broken component should be easy to spot - look at the front of the board with all the parts.
Look for obviously broken connection leads or otherwise physically broken components or even missing components (just 2 leads with nothing on them).
Resistors (the slim long usually orangy things with bands on them and leads on either side) usually look overheated/burned when broken.
Capacitors (can like things with the 2 leads usually on one side next to each other) often fail by "blowing out" with domed or burst top/bottom side.
Since you just transported the dryer, broken solder joints could be very likely aswell.
They *might* be easy to spot if really broken - if look at all the side of the board with all the connections (backside) if any of these small metalic connection spots looks cracked and/or the component connected to it is physically "loose" in there, these will need to be redone.
If anything minor like that jumps out to you in that regard, since you probably don't know how to solder, it might be worth a try to post an add to a market place site like Facebook Marketplace or such and offer a 10er or so to redo that solder joint or change out that component.
If these boards fail, it usually only is one small fault, one single component, and for somebody desoldering and resoldering a single component is an easy 10$ to make yet still cheaper to you.
If you can't easily see/check any of these things and/or replacement boards are cheap and easy/quick to get, going for a new board might be easier of course.
You'd need a multimeter to check that.
Disconnect the wires from the sensor to the module on the module side and check with one tip connected to one sensor bar and one to one lead for continuity (so a low "Ohm" setting or just continuity test).
Do that to both sides - one lead should be connected to one bar, the other to the other with a very low resistance.
The leads to each other should be open line.
If that is true the fault basically has to be with the board.
Since the exhaust temp is kept correctly and the cooldown is ended correctly apparently (the 3min should include the minimum cooldown period of 2min) the NTC is probably fine.
So the fault you are describing is the moisture sensor thinking there is no load most likely - which means the signal is broken somewhere, either in the wiring or on the board.
If the wiring checks OK take a look at the board.
Since a lot of components appear to be through-hole on this board, soldering them off or on is easy enough for anyone who knows how to solder.
A burnt or broken component should be easy to spot - look at the front of the board with all the parts.
Look for obviously broken connection leads or otherwise physically broken components or even missing components (just 2 leads with nothing on them).
Resistors (the slim long usually orangy things with bands on them and leads on either side) usually look overheated/burned when broken.
Capacitors (can like things with the 2 leads usually on one side next to each other) often fail by "blowing out" with domed or burst top/bottom side.
Since you just transported the dryer, broken solder joints could be very likely aswell.
They *might* be easy to spot if really broken - if look at all the side of the board with all the connections (backside) if any of these small metalic connection spots looks cracked and/or the component connected to it is physically "loose" in there, these will need to be redone.
If anything minor like that jumps out to you in that regard, since you probably don't know how to solder, it might be worth a try to post an add to a market place site like Facebook Marketplace or such and offer a 10er or so to redo that solder joint or change out that component.
If these boards fail, it usually only is one small fault, one single component, and for somebody desoldering and resoldering a single component is an easy 10$ to make yet still cheaper to you.
If you can't easily see/check any of these things and/or replacement boards are cheap and easy/quick to get, going for a new board might be easier of course.
thanks!
I LOVE my new old Kenmore/whirlpool frankenwasher! Love it. It's a little smaller, had trouble getting a horse fly sheet in, and things are wetter, but it takes me back to my childhood and I can get the laundry done in half the time! Thank you also Henene4, I have not had time to dissect the "board" for the moisture sensor module thingie, but I plan to once I get time. I think I can find someone to solder if it looks like that is the problem. WE are moving in 1-2 months so I'll wait until that move. Now I just need someone to pick up my LG washer and dryer!
I LOVE my new old Kenmore/whirlpool frankenwasher! Love it. It's a little smaller, had trouble getting a horse fly sheet in, and things are wetter, but it takes me back to my childhood and I can get the laundry done in half the time! Thank you also Henene4, I have not had time to dissect the "board" for the moisture sensor module thingie, but I plan to once I get time. I think I can find someone to solder if it looks like that is the problem. WE are moving in 1-2 months so I'll wait until that move. Now I just need someone to pick up my LG washer and dryer!
