Wow!
Congratulations, Greg! It's "the soft, warm glow of electric sex" for sure!
Congratulations, Greg! It's "the soft, warm glow of electric sex" for sure!
Loads Of Satisfaction - 1960 LK Dryer
- Thread starter gansky1
- Start date
Wiring Diagram
In the back...
Look at the wiring diagram, how complicated for a 1960 dryer, cool! What is the "Momentary Overtravel" thingy? And what is this part pictured below, it almost looks like a selenium rectifier with some sort of adjustment!
???
???
Well, you ain't seen nothin yet!
Momentary Overtravel looks to be a simple start-switch or safety switch in the circuits to control the start of the machine and also turning on the lights.
The part you're pointing to is a Thermistor, following the wiring diagram and wire-labeling. I don't know it's exact function in the control of the machine, or why it's mounted out there in the middle of nowhere.
Check this part out! Made by the Thermo-Disc Company, it's the "proportional switch" and may have something to do with why the machine isn't shutting off automatically...
I'm guessing at this point, but I think the brown "tube", which is marked 900 ohms and is connected to the control relay (blue wires) gradually heats the brass bar inside it (from the top of the brown tube the bar runs into the black connection box) that is connected to some sort of heat-switch/thermo cutoff in this unit which causes the dryer to shut off after a variable amount of time has elapsed (this appears to be varied by the rheostat or Dryness Adjusment Dial in the panel which would limit the amount of current flowing into the heating of the bar) This machine has no traditional timer so this would explain how it's able to "time" an Air Fluff cycle. Figured into this system is a cool-down (heat off) period as well which is possibly where the "control relay" works with the heater relay...
Momentary Overtravel looks to be a simple start-switch or safety switch in the circuits to control the start of the machine and also turning on the lights.
The part you're pointing to is a Thermistor, following the wiring diagram and wire-labeling. I don't know it's exact function in the control of the machine, or why it's mounted out there in the middle of nowhere.
Check this part out! Made by the Thermo-Disc Company, it's the "proportional switch" and may have something to do with why the machine isn't shutting off automatically...
I'm guessing at this point, but I think the brown "tube", which is marked 900 ohms and is connected to the control relay (blue wires) gradually heats the brass bar inside it (from the top of the brown tube the bar runs into the black connection box) that is connected to some sort of heat-switch/thermo cutoff in this unit which causes the dryer to shut off after a variable amount of time has elapsed (this appears to be varied by the rheostat or Dryness Adjusment Dial in the panel which would limit the amount of current flowing into the heating of the bar) This machine has no traditional timer so this would explain how it's able to "time" an Air Fluff cycle. Figured into this system is a cool-down (heat off) period as well which is possibly where the "control relay" works with the heater relay...
Greg the "brown tube" is a Power Resistor rated at 900 ohms. You might want to check the resistance of this resistor, if the value has drifted you can easily replace it, but I would use one rated at at least 400 volts. They are easily available on the net.
By the way, when you check the resistance be sure to pull off one of the two wires connected to it, otherwise you will get an incorrect reading.
By the way, when you check the resistance be sure to pull off one of the two wires connected to it, otherwise you will get an incorrect reading.
This machine has no traditional timer
Ya mean there's no thunka thunka thunka, chunk chunk chunk, click or a rapid advance timer turning around when ya push one of the buttons? Darn. Wonder if the matching washer does?
Ya mean there's no thunka thunka thunka, chunk chunk chunk, click or a rapid advance timer turning around when ya push one of the buttons? Darn. Wonder if the matching washer does?
Greg, I'm not there so I can't make any assessment of the lint bag but try this dude. Get you Armorall protectant and soak it down 5-6 times (never wiping, just soaking it). And maybe you can restore some of its' pliability. And maybe some form of 3M Brand contact cement to seal those seams if it doesnt melt the plastic. Ya know todays plastics are somewhat dif from 1959 or 1960. This is just a suggestion. Like I said, I'm not there to see what ya dealin with. good luck. If at all possible, I'd keep it as orig as possible.
Gorgeous! That's the same manual that came with our 1960 Model 80. I remember wishing my parents had sprung for the LK pair. But I was only 1 year old when they bought it, so I had very little say in the matter, LOL.
Congrats on your latest minty-new find!
Congrats on your latest minty-new find!
Appnut-- Our Model 80 dryer didn't have a traditional timer, either, but the washer had the wonderfully rhythmic rapid-advance timer you're referring to. I'm sure the LK washer has a rapid-advance, also.
No timer here!
On the left of the control panel, you can see some of the parts that control this dryer. There is no actual mechanical timer - only electric switches and thermostatic controls.
On the left of the control panel, you can see some of the parts that control this dryer. There is no actual mechanical timer - only electric switches and thermostatic controls.
Here is the proportional switch that I posted a picture of the other day with the parts labeled.
My hypothesis on the operation of this part was correct the other day - thanks for the advice & help, Jeff.
As the dryer reaches operating temperatures (165F normal & W/W, 145 delicate) the operating thermostats shift the power from the heater relay (turns on and off the heating unit) to this "Proportional Switch". The voltage from the 'open' thermostat is routed through this 900 ohm resistor which causes it to heat the thermo-bulb inside it. The amount of voltage (up to 120v) that reaches the resistor is controlled by the rheostat in the panel (called the dryness selector) so you can vary the amount of time the dryer runs after it reaches the cycle temp. The heat will cycle on and off, heating this thermo-bulb during the heat-off periods. Once the bulb reaches a pre-determined temperature, it activates a switch that turns off the dryer. Oddly enough, the way the dryer does this is by tricking itself that the door has been opened as that is the circuit that is opened.
I believe the rheostat in the panel was dirty and not allowing the system to work properly, but a quick cleaning of that switch produced the desired effect. The dryer seems to work perfectly now!
My hypothesis on the operation of this part was correct the other day - thanks for the advice & help, Jeff.
As the dryer reaches operating temperatures (165F normal & W/W, 145 delicate) the operating thermostats shift the power from the heater relay (turns on and off the heating unit) to this "Proportional Switch". The voltage from the 'open' thermostat is routed through this 900 ohm resistor which causes it to heat the thermo-bulb inside it. The amount of voltage (up to 120v) that reaches the resistor is controlled by the rheostat in the panel (called the dryness selector) so you can vary the amount of time the dryer runs after it reaches the cycle temp. The heat will cycle on and off, heating this thermo-bulb during the heat-off periods. Once the bulb reaches a pre-determined temperature, it activates a switch that turns off the dryer. Oddly enough, the way the dryer does this is by tricking itself that the door has been opened as that is the circuit that is opened.
I believe the rheostat in the panel was dirty and not allowing the system to work properly, but a quick cleaning of that switch produced the desired effect. The dryer seems to work perfectly now!
Here is the hidden genius in the Lint Storage system. You can see the top of the fan/separation chamber, the aluminum tube that carries a small amount of air and lint into the storage bag on the left. It works brilliantly, but does add a bit more noise with the fan running at about 3000 rpm.
Here is the exhaust outlet on the back of the dryer - you can see the separator baffle in the upper fan chamber. A bit harder to see is the extended baffle that protrudes into the chamber, presumably to change the pattern of airflow, sending the lint up and out the tube and into the storage bag.
Absolutely amazing!
Absolutely amazing!
The washer would have had all electro-mechanical controls, rapid advance timer, etc. It also had two air pumps to operate the dispensers for liquid detergent and fabric softener from 1 quart (?) reservoirs. There was a "one-shot" bleach dispenser as in other KM/WP washers.
Bypassing that proportional switch must be what my dad did to get our Model 80 to run after it malfunctioned. (I recall it was broken down several times; I don't know if it was expensive to fix, or if Dad just got tired of messing with it). I say this because, as I recall, it ran whenever the door was closed, without pushing any switches. In fact, I don't any of the switches worked any more except for the light switch.
jeff_adelphi
Well-known member
Greg, I'm happy to hear that It's shuting off by itself now, and you didn't have to look for any of those hard to find parts. You don't want a high wattage dryer like that running any longer then needed. Can't wait to see it together with the matching washer. Jeff
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