Looking for help with this KitchenAid KDS 15

[jgiotto]

This dishwasher was installed in 1966. I love this unit and do not want to replace it. However, I'm somewhat hesitant to try it, figuring the seals are all shot after all these years. I do not think my mother has used this in years. Also (refer to photo 5) there is a copper high-pressure tube sticking out from the right-hand side of the unit. Not sure what that is, since the water enters on the other side of the unit.

I would appreciate any advice, resources, and possible vendors for parts. I have the original manual and installation guide. Modern appliance repair guys won't touch it.

Thanks in advance!

 

[cam2s]

Gorgeous vintage KitchenAid dishwasher there. Glad you are restoring it and not throwing it on the scrap pile. Your first move should probably be to put a gallon or two or very hot water In the sump and let it sit for a while. This will allow the seals to rehydrate and give you an opportunity to identify any possible leaks. Any major leakage should be addressed but if you only get a few drips they might go away after a while. You’ll also want to test the electrical components. If you aren’t feeling adventurous you can shut the water supply off and start a cycle to see if you can hear the pump running as well as the fill and drain solonoids snapping at their respective times. If there aren’t any leaks the pump turns on I’d let it run a cycle and see what happens.

 

[steved]

Copper pipe

Is the sink to the right of the dishwasher? That could be the drain connection, disconnected for some reason. See if there's a hose connection somewhere for the drain.

 

[jgiotto]

Thanks for the responses, very helpful. I need to take the Action Indicator off to remove the bottom panel. I'm pulling but it doesn't come off very easlily. Sure don't want to break it. Suggestions?

 

[stevet]

A true classic!

Our first dishwasher was this same KDS-15 but slightly newer than yours. Yours is probably one of the earliest machines with the screwed together washarm.

Regarding the copper pipe inside the sink base, I would have to agree with SteveD and say it is the drain line and was originally connected to the sink drain somehow. Obviously, you need a drain connection. Use a 5/8" heater hose drain and non-corrugated. Most auto parts stores will carry the 5/8" heater hose so that will withstand the high temp water passing thru it. The plastic corrugated crap that comes on today's machines causes too much friction and water flow restriction for the amount of time that your machine drains and may result in standing water in the machine.

As far as the Action indicator goes, it is all one piece, that is, the beige knob and the chrome ring are all one assembly and cannot be separated. Most likely, after all these years, rust has formed between the lower panel and the ring as well as on the timer shaft making it all hard to remove. Even when new, this was always hard to pull out.

I would suggest spraying some PB-Blaster around the ring and let it soak in. Then push in on the stainless panel around the perimeter of the ring to loosen it up. Then see if it comes out. If you can access the timer from the side, meaning you have to pull the machine out, spray the shaft where the knob slides on to the timer and let it soak in. Then gently pry the knob assembly off the shaft. It may take a few tries but you should be successful. Once done, coat the timer shaft with some anti seize so it won't stick for the next 60 years!

 

[jgiotto]

Thanks for the responses, very helpful. I need to take the Action Indicator off to remove the bottom panel. I'm pulling but it doesn't come off very easlily. Sure don't want to break it. Suggestions?

 

[steved]

Here's what you're trying to remove

This is what the knob assembly looks like. I'd run a putty knife carefully around where the outer chrome rim meets the panel.

 

[jgiotto]

Thank you for all of the input, it was very helpful. So, yes, copper plumbing was part of the drain assembly. You can see the flexible hose in photo #1 leading over to it. The copper bridges between the cabinet wall. I'll continue to the garbage disposal with the 5/8 recommended hose. The disposal seems to have accommodation for the line.

Once I understood that the chrome and plastic were one piece, I was able to remove the Action Indicator very easily with some gentle prying from behind with a knife. Very clean, no rust whatsoever (photo #2). I can't wait to put this machine through its paces.

 

[rp2813]

Nicely done!  The disposer should definitely have a connection for the drain hose.  Just be aware that if the disposer has never had a dishwasher hooked up to it before, there is likely a plug that needs to be knocked out of the disposer's hose connector fitting so that water from the hose won't be blocked from flowing into it.

 

If you have an air gap (a metal cylinder atop the sink), that is where your drain hose should be connected.  If you don't, then you should route the hose so it goes up to the top of the sink cabinet to form a hook (an air gap alternative) before routing the remaining portion back down to the disposer.

 

 

 

[jgiotto]

Any suggestions on cleaning the top portion of the unit? Fine steel wool? I tried magic eraser, it worked to some degree. Bartenders Friend worked very well on the stainless.

 

[rp2813]

You might try some automotive chrome polish, but only on areas that are stainless or chrome.  It looks like the textured surface is painted, and chrome polish could remove that paint.  If you can get the unpainted trim areas decent looking, it might be best to mask off everything but the textured area and repaint.

 

Another alternative is to keep an eye out on craigslist or other on line classifieds for a donor machine with a better panel on it.

 

[jgiotto]

Update - more issues

While installing a new drain hose the flexible hose on the opposite end of the copper pipe fractured (inside the unit). After 55 years it was brittle. I had enough of the 5/8 hose left over to replace that lead. However, a further inspection revealed a cracked rubber water input line (rubber looping line to the left of and behind the copper water input) and possibly two deteriorated smaller rubber hoses, which I assume are vacuum lines. Looks like I'm pulling the unit out to replace those before proceeding forward.

BTW, how in the hell do you open those terrible plumbing clamps. Not with a channel lock pliers that's for sure!

 

[lorainfurniture]

Look up Corbin pliers (?) or something to that effect. There is a specific pliers for those clay that make it a breeze

 

[jgiotto]

Fantastic source thanks everyone - next question

Okay, my corbin pliers come in today, so this weekend I'll replace that intake hose that goes from the back of the water intake valve to the copper pipe that runs up the left side of the unit. Everything looks fantastic underneath, especially the motor and sump area, with no rot whatsoever. Top-side a bit of rust or coloring around the heating element prongs. I am somewhat worried about the shape of the water intake valve, it shows calcification/rusting on the exterior around the screws holding it together. If it is shot, is it possible to replace it?

 

[jgiotto]

Thank you, it runs like a charm! Recommend Detergent

Well all three hoses needed replacement, the two outlet hoses and the one input. But man it runs like a champ. There was one small leak in the sump that seemed to seal by the end of the cycle.

Could someone recommend a modern dishwasher detergent that replicates the stuff they used in these old machines? Thanks in advance.

 

[rp2813]

Excellent News That It's Up and Running Well!

Many here use Cascade Fryer Boil-Out, which still contains phosphates.  It can be found at industrial/institutional supply retailers as well as on line.  Google it for more info.

 

I've provided a link to an old discussion about it.

 

Now, if you haven't already read up on it, loading your dishwasher properly will ensure great results.  Since there is no dedicated wash arm for the upper rack, you need to be careful about how you load large pots, etc. in the bottom rack so they don't prevent the spray action from reaching portions of the top rack.

Using Cascade Fryer Boil Out

I finally emptied my FREE tub of Cascade pacs so I decided to purchase a case of the Fryer Boil Out because my stash of STPP is almost gone. Honestly it was a pain in the neck adding it each load so I figured I'd give the FBO a try. Well I love it...it works great. I assume it has chlorine in...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[jgiotto]

Leaking from bottom corners of the door

This happened the last two cycles I ran, no issues before. Another oddity, this only happens during the first wash cycle, then stops for the remainder of a full or sanicycle - weird!

After digging around previous posts, someone suggested the issue was with two plastic flanges attached to the corners of the bottom rack, which are missing on my rack (see the second photo).

I noticed the bottom ends of the door seal turn slightly inward on both sides. Perhaps that is the issue, but then why the leaking only during the first wash phase?

 

[DADoES]

 
What kind of detergent are you using?

 

[jgiotto]

Detergent I'm using

(See Image) also, of note, both times I had issues I was adding to the pre-wash area. The times I did not I only filled the regular wash area.