Loss of all effective paint removers due to methylene chloride ban...

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turbokinetic

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I'm not 100% sure this is the ideal forum to post this in, but I don't see a specific place for restoration techniques and supplies.

 

This is a question about restoring painted appliances.  I was made aware of the fact that all effective paint stripper has been taken off the market in the States. What sort of methods are you using to remove paint from large items like old refrigerator cabinets?

Caustic degreaser and a 4500 PSI pressure washer saved the day for me this week; however not all items can be exposed to water, or blasted with that level of mechanical force.

How have you folks been dealing with this issue?  I was really upset when I found out about this. I  had a container of real genuine methylene chloride based stripper that I just finished. Could not find it anywhere. Was finally told about a government ban. Wasted two days and over $100 in worthless products that did nothing.

 

Sincerely,

David 
 
I've used citrus based

furniture stripper, and it does take longer to work. I then used a plam sander to finish up.
I'm all for a better environment for our grand kids. Hexavalent chromium six recntly spilled out a drain onto a local freeway two months ago. An even bigger problem was discovered once the abandoned plating facility was opened up. Scott Pruitt doesn't care. You should.
 
Come back here .....

David, and let us know how it works. I'm down to about a quart of some good stuff I bought 10 years ago. If this brand works well I'll buy a gallon and put it on the shelf with my 20 lb bottle of R12 for future projects. lol
 
I spoke with a fellow at a local furniture restoration shop about paint strippers a few years back...

He had an interesting perspective, that our "pitchfork" society is very quick to rally behind banning chemicals that are *confirmed* to be dangerous, even if just moderately so, instead giving a strong preference toward chemicals and formulations that haven't been sufficiently studied/tested to make a conclusion. "If nobody says it's dangerous, then it must be safe!" is the reasoning.

The end result, for his industry, was a change from products of well-known & easily mitigated risks, to new products proclaiming safety with no basis, no knowledge of long-term side-effects, and worst of all, a very misleading reassurance of safety sufficient to make the average DIY-er forgo any concern to take standard precautions when using the products.

I don't remember if that discussion was about methylene chloride in particular, but it really resonated with me when I realized how many products around us were labeled as "safe" alternatives...
 
Old Car Alley.....

......channel on YouTube just talked about this very subject. He was VERY disappointed in the performance of the new formula paint stripper he was using to strip paint from a car he's working on.
A helpful comment from a viewer told him to try putting plastic sheeting over the area with the stripper on it and let it sit for a few hours.
That did the trick. The paint stripper took the paint right off just like the "old" formula did.
It just needs more time to work but MUST be covered to avoid evaporation.
 
At one place I visited-a cold chamber for testing planes and engines,guns,etc on an Air Force Base they used MANY tons of Methylene Chloride as a refrignet in the 6 15 Hp compressors.3 were going when I visited-the BIGGEST Allis Chalmers motors I ever saw--and the 3 other would be started when the F-15 plane engines were started in that test chamber-HUGE spherical tank holding the stuff-the guide took me under it!
Granite and other cultured granite table tops-these are cut WET with diamond blades or wheels to keep the dust down.Many tool makers and blade makers make DRY cut blades and wheels.Now the machines that use these have guards over the wheels that are connected to a HEPA type "shop" vacuum to collect the dust-the vac-dust collector is VERY effective-new OSHA requirement for cutting concrete,countertops,and so on.The attchemnt goes onto standard 4" to 6" angle disk grinders.DeWalt and Bosch.Should be available at your Lowes or HD soon.
 
California prop. 45 or 65?

got model glue banned. We still hve it here, but as a kid, my folks only allowed me to use the citrus based glue in winter, as a window was not opened. I used to see rejected from closed state mental hospitals patients placed into group homes in the 80's sniffing glue from plastic bags on the streets in the city neighborhoods.
Pick your poisons. It was voted in.
 
Well, if you

prefer just survival, again, pick your poisons. Many say two deaths per year is two too many. Sure, more die falling from a ladder, but it's all incremental, just like a hundred pennies still add up to a dollar, even though a single penny is worthless. I call it a ridiculous paralell. Not very logical.
Many extreme conservatives have a "thin the heard out" mindset also, until it affects them. Rush Limbaugh for example. Now he has stage 4 lung cancer.
 
Just a follow-up from me, as I started this thread here and have started similar threads in other places.

 

I had initially asked here <span style="text-decoration: underline;">what fellow antiques restorers have used to remove paint since this product became unavailable</span>. Thanks to several of you who replied with your answers.

 

The reason I removed the initial post is in response to replies on Facebook and elsewhere. My simple question degenerated into a political disagreement and mud-slinging fest. This is precisely what I did not want to happen. Even after removing my original post, I see that this discussion is edging towards the same path.

 

As with all chemicals, there are hazards associated with it. I too believe that people dying from an incident with a product is extremely bad and should be avoided; however one must weigh the options, to determine what is the best way to prevent it. What I must remind people is this. All of the MC-based paint removers have had dire warnings about the lethal potential of the vapors of the chemical. The issue is not that the product is too dangerous. It is that people were using it without proper knowledge of the hazards associated with it. I don't want to get into any arguments, but if the directions had been followed - these incidents would not have happened. People ignore directions for many reasons, ranging from "thinking they know better" to peer pressure, to the boss telling them to do it. It happens, and it will happen. My father and grandfather taught me at home, to be very careful with chemicals because "they can kill you." Home training is a good start, as well is the continuing education we receive at work about new products introduced into our workplace.

 

One serious issue in our society today is that ALL products with any hazard carry the "Most dire of dire" warnings. People use a can of brake cleaner, and see it says DANGER but they abuse it and breathe the fumes and get away with it. The can of paint stripper has no more serious of a warning, but the hazard is more severe.  The constant bombardment with DIRE DANGER warnings on products with only moderate hazards has lead to a significant level of complacency. In the industrial world, the SDS sheets and hazard warning labels are a lot more detailed and are much more informative, but are above the head of average consumers. 

 

There are several reasons that original MC paint stripper served an important purpose. The main reason was lead paint abatement. I can see that several commenters here have limited or no experience with this. The danger of lead paint is in creating forms which can be inhaled or ingested or absorbed. The safest form of lead paint is when it is in a solid form. The worst is when it is in a dust form.

Many of the antiques we work on are painted with lead-based paints which have been painted over with many layers of other paints. The years and heat have made it very difficult to break down the paint and remove it. 

 

Every time you apply and remove paint remover, you are exposing yourself to the paint remover and to the lead paint which is coming off. Any product which requires additional interaction, such as applying Saran wrap, scrubbing with a brush, or multiple additional applications is exposing the user to lead and stripper at each step.

 

When these "new generation" strippers work, they work slowly and require more applications. The stripper and the removed paint never dries (or takes many days), leaving a lead paint gel, which is difficult to contain and prevent from spreading. When MC based stripper and removed paint is allwowed to dry, it returns to a solid, hard state which will not spread lead paint around.

 

Furthermore, MC based strippers work without intervention. You apply the product and then later, it easily brushes off. Each time you interact with it, there is a hazard. By being effective, you use less applications and spend less time actually interacting with the paint and stripper. 

 

Some coatings are simply not removed by the next generation strippers. This leaves only one option - mechanical removal. This is where the severe lead paint dust hazard becomes an issue; or in the case of the pressure washer, containing and disposing of the lead based paint shreds and chips is a nightmare.

 

So, again my original post was aimed at finding an alternative which will not increase the lead paint hazard associated with our antiques restoration hobby - no more and no less. 
 
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