Lubing the damper pads on a Maytag Dependable Care washer. A How To.

[redcarpetdrew]

Since I had to do one in the field, I'd thought I'd share the process to let people see how it's done and how easy it is, thereby saving you the heartache of a destroyed damper.. Here goes!

In the field, there isn't always room to spread out but there is more than enough room here to get it done.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

The tub should move relatively easily by grabbing the agitator. Damper pads in need of service will allow the mechanism to 'grab' the base and cause vibration and/or shaking and walking. Let them go too long and the pads will get ripped off the base and you will hear the heartbreaking sound of metal on metal. Expensive noise, too!

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Tools you need really are few. A basic tool kit (this is a Xcelite tool roll that Maytag used to put out.) with screwdriver, nut driver for the top, a socket wrench for the tub spring nuts, a block comprised of 2 two by fours taped in a block, Poly Lube and maybe some gloves to keep your hands neat. [this post was last edited: 7/1/2014-03:06]

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Remove the front cover. Some use two Phillips screws or in the newer DC machines, the front is held in place with clips.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Remove the two 3/8" bolts that secure the top to the front of the cabinet. You will need the top to lift and give the tub room to raise. You'll see that in a minute.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Pull the washer forward enough that you can lean it back to access the tub spring bolts and belts. A bit tight in this small room but doable.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Remove the belts. Then Mark or measure how much thread is exposed before removing the nuts. You can do this with some tape on the upper part of the eyebolt above the nut. This will aid in tightening them when we're done and center the tub. Gloves. Wear em if you got em now.

Use your socket wrench to ALMOST undo the spring nuts. All three of them. What I do is reach inside the machine with one hand to hold onto the spring eye bolt and spring then finish removal of one of the back nuts. This keeps the tub spring and eye bolt from flying to other counties. Let them hang from the tub support arm. Then repeat for the other rear nut. Then I will undo the front which will be easier without the back two pulling on it,[this post was last edited: 7/1/2014-03:10]

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Here's where the block comes in. Put it under the transmission pulley. Then tip the washer forward towards you while lifting the top to keep from knocking the out of balance arm out of alignment. The tub assembly will be pushed up off the base plate exposing the pads.

Here's where you can inspect the pads to make sure that all three are still attached to the base frame. These pads are felt. They might be glossy smooth from the weight of the tub and the movement. You can take a wire toothbrush and gently brush the pads to break up the gloss. [this post was last edited: 7/1/2014-03:11]

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Get some Poly Lube on your fingertips. You don't want to slather it on heavily nor do you want to use a trace. A little bit applied to the pads and worked in a touch. This will allow the tub assembly to move around during spin but have just enough friction with the pads to keep it under control.

There are three pads in a triangular pattern. Make sure you get all of them.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Down hill from here.

Tip the washer back again, making sure the out of balance lever isn't catching on the tub cover. Remove the block. Start with one of the back eye bolts and, with one hand again, line it up with the hole where the nut will catch it. Just start it but don't tighten it up just yet. Repeat with the other rear eyebolt and nut. Sometimes working the wood block between the tub and the side of the cabinet will push the tub over enough to catch the 2nd rear eyebolt. Set the washer down and you can pull the tub forward enough to line up the front eyebolt.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Tip the washer back one last time. Remember when I told you to mark how much thread stuck out from the nut on each eyebolt? Here's where it will pay off. Tighten each nut till the right amount of threaded eyebolt is sticking out of the nut. Reinstall the belts. Set the washer back onto its feet.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

A word about my favorite socket wrench...

This is a Crescent adjustable ratchet wrench. I keep this in my tool bag and it saves me from hunting the right size socket and going back to the truck. It has held up very well.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Ok. Test it out. First you should be able to move the tub around with little effort. There has to be some resistance to keep the tub movement in check without it grabbing the base frame. Second, put it into a spin then lift the lid. It should stop with the tub opening lined up with the opening in the top. If not, simply adjust the appropriate spring nut to line it up. Re spin to verify. Reinstall the front panel.

Congratulations. You have now done an important maintenance that all Dependable Care Maytags will need at some point in their lives.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

A side note...

Because people ask frequently what is that watch, here it is. My mid 60's Citizen automatic with a custom deployment bracelet. I wear watches that range in size from this to big honkers that look like Flavor Flave loaned me his clock. Lol!

 

[goatfarmer]

Great post, Drew. Thank You!

 

[stevet]

Mystery solved..

so far,at least for me. But I do have one question.. Just where do these friction pads go and what do they look like? And were they used on all Maytags? My sister is always complaining about her machine spinning out of balance and the servicer cannot seem to get it to stop. If I ever get back out to Arizona, I would like to give it a try to get it right.
Are there any pictures or service procedures that we can post here?

BTW, Great job of showing how it is done, Drew

 

[Ultramatic]

I love how-to's

 

 

Thanks Drew!

 

[hippiedoll]

oh redcarpetdrew!!!!

THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!!

for posting this GREAT tutorial of how to do the damper pads!!! i know it took a lot of time to take pictures along the way. but boy that was AWESOME!!!

i'm afraid i may have to replace the damper pads on th 608 i just bought. and thanks to you drew, this job doesn't seem to be so hard or scarey now!!!

and i like that Crescent adjustable ratchet wrench. i want to get me one now!!!
hm hm hm.....

GREAT thread drew! you have given me more confidence in undertaking this "mission" myself.

a big THANK YOU for posting this "how to" thread.

)

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Hi Steve!

On the Dependable (2 belt) Care platform, the pads are attached to the base in a circular/triangular pattern. I'll attach a picture I pulled as I don't have one that really shows the location in great detail. These you lube. The Norgetags used a Teflon ring that kind of floated In between the base and the damper bowl. This you did not lube.