Lubing the damper pads on a Maytag Dependable Care washer. A How To.

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If you don't take care of them, then they get dry and start to get worked off the base. Then it can get interesting. If you're lucky, the new pads can get attached with glue by raising the tub like I did. You must scrape off the old pads if any and clean the base or the new won't stick. I'll do a separate thread on actually doing this. If you're not lucky, then the pads have come off and allowed the aluminum damper bowl to grind against the base frame. This can be easily told by hearing very unfunny metal on metal noises as the tub is moved around and/or the black dust of death appearing on the base around the damper area. Then it requires more effort and money to repair. Trust me folks. Don't let it get there!

Here's a base where the pads just started to come loose but not allowed the damper to grind yet.

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Is that what keeps it balanced?

Drew,
Those pads seem inconceivable to do the job.
Here are some pics of the machine in question.
Model number is LAT9416AAE
Serial Number is 23274741UK
Any idea of the age? And are all the pads the same?

Thanks,
Steve
BTW, the control panel says "Quiet Pack" like my home dryer says but I nave not seen one bit of sound absorbing material on either machine!

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Your washer was born in May, 1998. Yup. Those pads do the job. Remember, the springs keep the tub centered while the friction the pads provide allow some tub movement without letting the tub shake the base. Those pads have been in use since... The highlanders? They do it well.

Quiet pack. That was Maytag's way of saying it was the entry level quietness which wasn't much. The level of noise dampening went up from there. 'quiet pack II' and so on. You could tweak it yourself by getting some of the asphaltic sticky pads like on the sides of the KA dishwashers and applying them to the insides of the cabinet to reduce sympathetic vibrational noise. That's all they did.

RCD
 
Damper Pads.

I recently got an A308 for free. The reason why I got it was because the damper pads had dried up and come off. The aluminum damper riding on the steel base caused the damper to shatter. Trust me, that is a BAD THING!

To fix it, I removed the front and opened up the top of the washer. I pulled out the agitator and the inner tub. I removed the belts, transmission pulley, and brake assembly. I removed the cabinet from the base. I leaned the inner tub over so I could unhook the springs one by one and lifted the outer tub out of the washer with the transmission and 3 support arms still attached and placed them gently on a pad on the floor. I unbolted the support arms from what was left of the damper and removed the arms from the inner tub. I pulled the remains of the damper off of the transmission. Finally, I pulled off the remains of the damper pads and sanded the area down.

To reassemble, I primed and painted the area of the base where the dampers go, letting it dry as instructed. I glued the new pads down with Maytag high temperature adhesive, let it dry, and then lubricated the pads with Polylube. I used a good damper that I had in my parts stash, and reassembled the machine. I also installed new feet.

It was a fair bit of work, but it wasn't too complicated, just a long process, primarily waiting for paint to dry and cure. I put the washer in service in my 4-family house for one of my tenants to use, and she is happy with it. It runs quietly, always balances on spin, and doesn't walk across the room.

Now I'm replacing damper pads on every Center Dial Maytag I rebuild, just because it's not difficult and prevents major problems later. Also, given that the newest Center Dial washer is a 1980 model, the original pads have a whole lot of time on them and aren't too likely to have been re-lubricated as often as they really should have been.

Dave
 
I have the  same "LAT" Tag. as reply #21.  It is the best washer I have ever owned. Thank You RCD.  & SteveT.  I just recorded this thread number on my washer owner book.
ALR
 
Drew

Thanks for the great information!  You make it look so easy.  I've always heard that about these little buggers, but it does look like something the average Maytag-owner could handle with the right tools and with patience.

 

After reading your post and looking at all of the pictures, I feel like I should get some kind of CE credit.

 

lawrence
 
The new pads can get attached with glue

Drew, what adhesive do you recommend for damper pads?

Needless to say, this is not a job one wants to do over.

How about 3M Scotch-Grip #847 as used on Maytag dryer felt seals.




 
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I've wondered about using 1300L. It's used extensively in aviation maintenance for just about anything that needs to be glued, from leading edge de-icer boots to interior upholstery. It can be thinned with toluene until it's easily applied with a brush without leaving strings hanging, and if applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry until tacky, the parts can then be pressed together for a permanent bond.

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Maytag Dampers

Great instructional thread Drew, destroyed damper assembly's on MT helical drive washers are one of the frequent reasons that we are junking these washers as few customers will pay to fix them when the damper really fails. I have been saving good undamaged aluminum dampers from lightly used machines if anyone ever needs one, I am sure that WP will discontinue these one of these days. We get a lot of lightly used stack MTs out of condos here in the Dc area and these machines make great parts donners for other MTs.

Hi Steve, the damper should be checked for sure on your sisters washer, but the biggest problem with vibration on MT HD washers we see is that the four feet are not all set in as far as possible and the lock nuts are not tight [ and rubber pads in place ], this is the first thing to do. Beyond this if the washer in on a wooden floor that is not really solid MTs will vibrate more than some washers, we often go in and install a 3/4" section of plywood under the washer and dryer with glue and a screw every 4" across the entire piece of plywood.

Steve, warn your sister about excessive washer with cold water, LAT MTs can get really nasty and moldy around the top of the wash basket because of the way MT redesigned the tub and tub cover and fill inlet on the LAT machines, the good thing about the redesign was it did solve a lot of the back washing of lint and dirt onto the clean clothing that previous MTs HD washers suffered from.

John L.
 
I used this tutorial a couple months ago when I lubed the damper pads on a Maytag DC I'm rebuilding. Full of good information and details, pics are helpful, thanks so much, it's appreciated!
 
Where’s RedCarpetDrew? Don’t think he’s posted in the 7 years I’ve been on the forum. Possibly could have posted once, but don’t remember.
 
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