MAH6500 help ...

[DADoES]

 
RJ's Neptune is throwing an increasingly-frequent Lr "locked rotor" fault.  The motor and drum aren't physically jammed.  What are the chances the cause is an erratic harness connection at either the motor or motor board?  Or should I play like a parts-monkey and change both the motor and board?

 

[henene4]

The error detection logic should be far enough advanced to distinguish between a lost connction and a locked rotor. If the connection would be lost, the motor board couldn't send any power. If it detects a locked rotor, it is sending power, but no rotation is happening.

My guess would be the motor board, more exactly a capcitor on there, or a bad solder joint.
Bad capacitors could have lost their capacity to the point where they can't supply enough power to start rotation.
A craked solder point could make a wonky connection.
Could try to take a look at the motor board, if you can spot a bulging or leaking capacitor or some cracked solder joint.
Then either try to fix that yourself or replace.

Though reseating all connecions first won't hurt either.

 

[iowabear]

This is exactly what my 2006 MAH6500 starting doing this year.  Instead of completing the final spin I would occasionally find it stopped with a LR error code.  Manually restarting the spin only cycle would always work.

 

Problem started becoming more frequent (especially on larger loads) and I ordered a used motor control board from eBay for $60.  Maytag went through a lot of revisions so I remember I needed to look for the control board that matched the motor (unless I was going to replace both which apparently Maytag recommended a lot of time.)  The part I needed was <span class="st"> 62726410. I attached a photo of my original board.  The replacement board I got had a slightly different revision number (the AKO number), I think it ended in 05 instead of 07. </span>

 

As these things go, after I ordered the part the problem stopped happening as frequently so the part sat on the shelf for a few months.  Then the problem showed up again so I finally swapped out the board.  Mine used part came with the plastic case so two or three bolts on the bottom to remove the existing plastic casing and replace it with the new one was all that was involved.  Very easy and haven't seen the LR code since.