Maytag 101P 911

[westytoploader]

Hi everyone,

Well, I moved the 101P 'Tag back from its place in the laundry room to get ready to replace the fill flume hose (it's too big and apparently doesn't fit properly because it drips), and I noticed a big brown oil spot under the machine (went through the layers of paper towels I placed under it "just in case")...apparently it's leaking oil from the center of the clutch. I haven't had a chance to look at the machine further (will check it out tomorrow when I get the cabinet off), but I think I have an idea of what could be causing this. I probably did a little over-tinkering when I was working on it...pulled the rubber oil stopper out without knowing the clutch was filled up completely with oil (causing a mess). If I had known that (nothing mentioned about it in the manual) I would have left it alone in the first place. How hard are the rubber oil stoppers to come by? If anyone has a "surplus" amount of these, please let me know!!

The second problem is that the spin collar is taking way too long to drop down again when the solenoid energizes. Under normal use (after a few loads) it's perfectly fine, but when I let the machine sit for a day and try spin again, it "clickety-clacks" for a little bit and then starts spinning. Seems like there's a gunky "film" of grease around the collar and shaft from sitting up after all those years, and no matter how many times I oil it, nothing happens. Is there any way to clean this of any residue without taking the whole assembly apart?

Any help is appreciated; this machine is starting to become more trouble than I initially thought...

--Austin

 

[brettsomers]

this is awfull, austin. all the trouble ur going thru! i will do you a favor, get rid of it! who wants a putzy old washer anyway? Send it to 214 Broadway...

 

[spinout]

WD-40 is a good, safe solvent for old gunked up oil residue when used liberally. You're not going to hurt anything with this and it works pretty good. If you need more cleaning power use carb cleaner (e.g., Gumout in a spray can), as it's most convenient. Lacquer Thinner, MEK or even an alcohol will work but will be messy (and potentially hazardous). And there's always Carbon tetrachloride--OK, just kidding; don't try that one. Just checking to see who's paying attention! Anyway, don't waste your time with paint thinner/mineral spirits, it is not aggressive enough and will not flash off prior to relube.

Be sure to relubricate the assembly after all the solvent has evaporated or otherwise been removed.

**Be so advised that the more aggressive solvents will damage many paint finishes if left in contact for more than a few seconds.**

Good luck.

On second thought, you could always send that AMP to me for personalized service...

 

[christfr]

hang in there

these machines make you work for it. they deal you a fit and bite and scratch you the whole way but once you master them and figure it all out they become loving and faithful friends. so austin i have the same machine and had it all apart twice but didnt have that problem. i know my tags will drop a drip of thick oil every once in a great while but not like that. what sort of service book do you have? i have a book from the 50s that i can copy pages if you need? all i can say is dont give up i love my 101 its one of the strongest machines i have know yours is too

 

[Unimatic1140]

this machine is starting to become more trouble than I initially thought...

Welcome to world of keeping 50+ year old washing machines going. That's all part of the fun and challenge of having a vintage washer collection Austin.

 

[westytoploader]

Thanks everyone...will get some WD-40 and try it, then oil the collar again...hopefully that will work. I'm looking at the 1950's Maytag service manual and trying to find out any other reason why that ^$%^!# thing isn't dropping! I did read where if you were working on the T-key and needed to tighten the stop bolt to hold the collar up, it said to do it by hand and NOT use a screwdriver as it could potentially "burr" the collar and cause it to not function properly. Well, when I was trying to turn that T-key around, I *did* use the screwdriver on the stop bolt. However I don't think that is the problem because it still worked fine after I oiled it; not really a potential as the collar just slides down slowly, it doesn't get "stuck" anywhere.

Will see what happens...now on to the "leaky clutch" situation. Keep the suggestions coming; I really appreciate 'em!

--Austin