Maytag A06 aquisition for rebuild

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

Joined
Apr 22, 2025
Messages
22
Location
Southern Cal
Hello everyone, well I scored a 1977 Maytag washer A806 and DG606 set for rebuild and I have some questions for the experts. The units are very clean on the outside.
I've been reading A806 related posts for about a month now trying to get myself up to speed with the rebuild effort that I'm going to tackle soon. Got all the parts I could for it, like tub seal, tub bearing, hoses, pump, etc. The agitator shaft on this machine is in great shape. So I was thinking of reusing the tub seal and stem, just using a new agitator shaft (old type) seal, since I hear that the newer type is not really preferred. I was also thinking of taking the shaft out and having parts of it powder coated, like the ones I see in pictures that the factory did with expoxy paint. The tub is not in great shape, lots of rust, but haven't yet determined if there are any open holes in it. I'm guessing that the tubs in these 40+ year old machines never look that great. An idea came to mind, and would like some feedback - what about taking the tub down to a shop that re-lines gas tanks for cars. If that resin holds up to gasoline, I'm thinking there is a good chance it will hold up to laundry chemicals and such. It is expensive though, a gas tank is usually $300+ to have that done.

Any thoughts??
 

Attachments

  • image_50402049.JPG
    image_50402049.JPG
    1.5 MB
Don’t think the Maytag DG606 was around in 1977 since the Maytag HOH’s were discontinued in 1976 and were superseded by the Maytag Stream Of Heat in 1976.

Unless, it was a 1975 Maytag DG606 or DG806 that was in the dealer’s stock for awhile.
 
The lower o-ring seal inside the transmission will eventually leak if it isn't already. You can use a fluorine o-ring in place of the factory neoprene, which will last much longer. It requires the trans to be torn down and all gears removed so might as well clean out that nearly 50 year old oil and replace it with new. I always replace the clutch washers and Delrin pinion gear but some of those parts are getting tricky to find now.

You mention the tub being rusty, is this the inner or outer tub? You can use any large capacity inner and outer tub from 1966-1993. You may have to find another machine for parts. Get friendly with some local appliance outfits and they may let you take a haul away machine for parts.

If the dryer is a match to the washer and has a lighted console, it's probably a DG808.
 
Sorry, yes, dryer is a DG808. On the washer, I do plan to go through the trans. I've sourced the pinion gears top and bottom, clutch washers and newer type lower seal. I've never test run the unit since I got it though, probably should have I suppose.
 
Found a suitable donor machine for the right sized taller outer tub, thanks to qsd-dan for helping me along with the tub id and history facts. Turned out the donor tub is in great shape, and extra parts & orbital trans / agitator to boot. The donor is a 1994 A9700S suds saver model, for anyone who needs suds saver parts, I have em, even the extra plastic sink. Now I can proceed with the A806 rebuild!
 
I had a DE806 and a DG806 back in the day. The were incredibly reliable and lasted about 20 years for my ex-wife. I do remember that the washer had a difficult time rolling over stiff items like jeans or large items like sheets and blankets, especially during the rinse cycle.
 
Ok, so an update on the A806 project. Well, since when I started this thread, I have acquired 3 more Maytag machines! The first one, turned out to be an A208. Since I learned that his tub size was a standard and not a large capacity machine. Oh well, no harm no foul, I'll use it to rebuild "learning style". That way, I don't screw up my prized machine (A806). Well, turned out that the A208 was barely limping along, it needed a tub and the agitator was impossible to get out, so it had to be cut up (see pic). The pitman trans shaft is toast. So.... that led me to two other parts donor machines - A9700S, large capacity and a A212 std capacity. The A9700 was clean as a whistle inside - good orbital trans / shaft and tub, along with all the other stuff plus the suds saver parts. The large tub will be used on the A806. The A212, not too bad, tub was good and the agitator as well. The trans shaft not so good, so I'll have to swap out the shaft with the shorter orbital trans to have one for the A208. So now, I can direct my efforts to my first rebuilding experience with the A208 machine, using the orbital trans & agitator - yay. Thanks y'all for the expertise and information that this forum provides to newcomers.
 

Attachments

  • image_67178497.JPG
    image_67178497.JPG
    1.7 MB
Keep the transmission on the 208, it's just a worn upper sleeve bearing and agitator shaft. Everything else will be fine.

I'm currently in the works piecing together a shaft, sleeve bearing, and groove pin kit for the upper housing. Other NLA parts will hopefully be available depending on cost. All wearable parts in these transmissions are NLA and dried up at this point, this is why I aggressively hoarded in the early years. I'be been warning this day would come for over 18 years and here we are.

It's ridiculous machines are being trashed over these parts.
 
Last edited:
Well qsd-dan and others, I've been thinking, wheels turning in my head, how to save these shafts. I've looked into redi-sleeve / speedi-sleeves, good idea, yet the sleeve width is a problem - only .300 inch thick, probably not enough to cover the seal area. Then I looked into stainless steel thin wall tube. maybe. Will need to turn down the shaft to accomodate at least .028" sleeve thickness or more. That will present a problem for the agitator splines on the shaft. Will it be too much taken off? That is the question. And then, I see the Amish have produced new stainless steel shafts for the wringer washers. So why can't this be done for the pitman and orbital trans? It does always come down to the shaft on these machines, which determines their fate it seems. Which leads me to ask, was there any Maytag maintenance schedule to follow for the agitator seal for these machines? It would seem that the seal would need to be changed long before a leak started, otherwise, corrosion takes over.
 
There was no scheduled maintenance for replacing the original (better) agitator shaft seal but I'd replace it every 20 years through normal use just to be on the safe side. More often if bleach/ammonia is used. The original design generally lasted 30 years (average use) before leaking and corrosion set into the shaft. My 1975 HA806 had ZERO corrosion and wear on the shaft and it turned perfectly smooth on the sleeve bearings with zero play. The newer lip seal design that debuted in 1996 doesn't hold up like the original that was used in wringers from 1939-1983 and Maytag helicals from 1956-1995. Their first batch of lip seals guaranteed leakage within 10 years or less.

I have contacted some of places that sell the Amish SS wringer shafts but they refuse to hook me up with the machining department for whatever reasoning. It's the same shaft with subtle differences. Maytag sold the upper/lower shaft bearings for the wringers but unfortunately not the automatics. One had to purchase the entire upper housing from Maytag which was available through 2006 until Whirlpool bought them out.

I have scoped out a few US machine shops for the shaft that do this kind of work and on a smaller quantity basis and have one in mind that has a great reputation. Already have a source for the brass/bronze sleeve bearings. Already sourced a place for the groove pin.

Everything pretty much comes down to $$$ and inflation is currently the biggest obstacle. This will basiacally weed out the lukewarm owners and cater towards the passionate ones.
 
Back
Top