Maytag A512 02 Spins but Won't Agitate

[hosertp]

Cleaning done, parts are here, reassembly started

Hello to those still watching. I have cleaned up almost everything, have almost all of the things I need to complete the transmission swap but I still have a couple of questions:
#1 - In the picture below I am showing the old tub seal (still on the tub) and the new one off of ebay. I chose the $79.00 one, mid-price range and surprisingly high quality materials except, there is a little difference where the tub seal bearing meets the transmission. Anyone see the difference between the old and new being a problem? The old is in remarkable condition and I will probably save it, but it is kind of deep not to put in the new unless a potential problem is identified. Thoughts?
#2 - The tub cover seal seems to have been leaking a little in spots and there are some rust spots along the lip of the tub where the seal sits. If the seal is in reasonable condition, can I sand the rust on the lip of the tub reasonably smooth and install the seal (either old or new) with a small bead of silicone then clamp in place? Is it worth the effort or does that seal always leak a little?
#3 - My latest parts cache. I still need to order the agitator (which thatwasherguy properly instructed me the part number that has the retainer screw on the side) and the softener dispenser cup.

Thanks to everyone for their consideration and advice. I hope to finish up after Thanksgiving and will show more pictures then.
Paul

 

[thatwasherguy]

Congratulations!

Looks like you're making some great progress! As for the tub bearing, the difference is the fact that the old one has an oil wick on it, while the new one lacks this feature. Both styles are completely interchangeable with one another. As for the tub rust, I would advise using a rust coating product to prevent it from spreading. Personally, I really like POR-15. However, there are many other products out there that will do the same thing. You sure don't want that rust eventually turning into a hole like it did on my Maytag's outer tub! As far as the RTV is concerned, I would absolutely use it. I was having trouble stopping a leak on my tub cover gasket that was created by the patched area of the tub being much thicker than the original metal lip. Thus, the clamp wouldn't tighten fully. I used some RTV on both sides of the seal, and it doesn't leak so much as a drop.
Hope this helps,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[hosertp]

Final assembly waits on the tub repair

I have everything inside the washer ready to go for when the tub rust removal/restoration of the lip/POR 15 paint job is complete. I plan to tape a bit below the tub lip bend on the outside and just below the bend on the inside as well for painting purposes. The repair will be pretty minor with JB Weld. All surfaces have been sanded smooth , cleaned and etched with the POR-15 products. For now I am addressing the bottom where there were some rust spots
So I switched gears to the damper pads, the pad lubricant, the brake install, pulley and belts so I can set the machine upright for setting the tub when it is finished. So a couple of pics, let me know if anyone has comments please.
When I am done with the bottom of the tub, I will send pictures of the surface where the seal contacts the tub. I would appreciate consultation if I should add some JB Weld in one area or if I should leave it be. Photos to come when the tub gets flipped right side up.
As always, thank you all for your willingness to share you knowledge.

 

[good-shepherd]

showing the old tub seal (still on the tub)

The older style tub bearing oil wick can be saturated with turbine oil by pulling back the rubber and re-used if in good condition.

I'd re-use or save it, just matter of time before OEM tub bearings are NLA.

 

[hosertp]

It’s time

I’m done eliminating rust and such and am ready to put everything together, but I still have a question or two:
#1 - Before installing the outer tub, should I put anything between the transmission/sleeve like oil or grease? Any particular type? Same question regarding between the sleeve and the bearing?

#2 - Can I bolt up the 3 tub support arms to the tub with the springs in place or should I bolt them without the springs and then vise grip them to the eyelets?

Any other tips that I shouldn't forget on my way will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Paul
PS - My picture of the new agitator , I’m giddy!

 

[combo52]

Reassembling a Maytag helical Drive washer

Hi Paul, the bearing sleeve that slips on top of the transmission should just go on dry does not need any lubrication underneath, etc.. In fact, I think it would be a poor idea to put anything between the sleeve and the transmission.

I normally would have the arms and springs in place on the damper and then set the transmission in place and then put the outer tub in place.

Your wash basket and new agitator look great, very clever, to paint the top of the concrete balance ring. Those usually got pretty crappy, looking and sometimes would absorb water and create odors,

Looks like you’re close to having a running washer again.

John

 

[hosertp]

Oh No!

I replaced a Pittman transmission that didn't agitate but it ran the spin cycle and the new orbital agitates but will not spin. I left the front cover off of the washer to check for leaks and to catch any issues quickly. Load was set at medium, hot/cold, regular without clothes. When it came time for the spin cycle, it never turned, belts started to slip and finally a slight puff of smoke from the motor when I turned it off.
Good news is that there were no leaks and the transmission is still under warrantee, but now I have to haggle a bit about the return.
Everything fit so perfectly that this was the last thing that I could have imagined. Is there any way I could have put this together incorrectly? I just don't see it. Let me know, because I'd much rather not have to go through the R&R and look a bit foolish.
Seller swears that it was tested specifically in high speed spin cycle and stated that I bought the wrong transmission (a 6707 instead of what I needed a 6708). I showed them the picture below, A512 takes a 6707 just like they were advertising. There is no doubt in my mind that they think the transmission is functional, but it ain't functioning for me.
Always interested in hearing your ideas and thanks in advance,
Paul

 

[DADoES]

 
It's unlikely that no-spin is a transmission problem.  The internal gearing of the transmission has no function related to spin.  More likely a brake release problem.  I'm sure someone more expert on those issues will offer advice.

 

[repairguy]

I agree with Glenn it’s not a transmission problem. That tub cover is not resting on top of the wash basket is it?

 

[hosertp]

That might be it

Thank you, I believe that is it. I will check that out.
Paul

 

[hosertp]

Yes!

I missed that before tightening the seal. Thank you all, for helping through the entire process.
A final post to follow.
Paul

 

[hosertp]

Epilogue

After 5 loads of varying sizes and temperatures, clean clothes and no leaks, I deem the effort a success! I am so happy with the results of the upgrades that I would have never thought about attempting to incorporate and the important maintenance items you all suggested for me while I had the machine in pieces. I have one seized Pittman transmission and a shark fin agitator to offer to anyone who wants to pay shipping? If no one wants the Pittman, I’ll probably take it apart to figure out what went wrong and maybe fix it?

Part of what got me going on the washer project was that I wanted to branch off of the gas dryer with a quick disconnect for my tri-fuel 13,000 watt whole home generator. Having a generator to work off your pre-piped gas source keeps you from running out for energy sources in a crisis (as long as your propane/natural gas is operable). An image of that new connection is attached.

Attached is a final photo of the pair ready for action! If you have been following along, the attached photos are for you. Thank you very much!

 

[good-shepherd]

Photo 3

Looks like the tub spring eye bolts could use some adjustment to get the tub more centered.

 

[robbinsandmyers]

Congrats on your success! I would take the pitman apart and rebuild it to install back in at a later date with its original agitator. The simplicity and robustness of them is legendary. As for the gas hook up, is that to code?

 

[hosertp]

Good Shepard is right

Good_Shepherd, you are right. I took the picture after I had set the tub. During setting the tub I had released pressure to make all three attachments easier. After full attachment I did tighten them up until it set equally on the damper pads. I had measured them before I took them off at 1 1/8” from the top of the adjustment nut to the start of the eye so I had a benchmark as well. Very perceptive and thanks for your comment.
RobbinsandMyers, I’m not a plumber, but I am a superintendent. I’m not sure why it wouldn’t be legal. If you were only counting on the quick connector for your gas shut-off, probably not acceptable, but with the ball valve, all the rest of it is just piping. I’ll ask the plumbers on site tomorrow and report back. Thanks

 

[combo52]

A job well done

Hi Paul, first of all, thank you for the generous donation in the name of many of us automatic washer members. That’s a really nice thing to do and as far as I know it’s the first time anybody’s made a charitable donation in the name of automatic washer. thank you.

Your machines look absolutely great I love the finish. I’ve always wanted to paint, some of my appliances cool colors the closest I’ve come is my outdoor kitchen I painted a couple of them forest green.

The centering of your outer tub doesn’t look to be that far off unless you’re having trouble with it going out of balance or banging the cabinet. I don’t think I’d worry about it too much or unless it bugs you

Your gas hook up is good. The only possible concern is that most of the flexible lines that you buy are not rated for indoor use however, we have such hook ups that I’ve installed both in my basement and that our warehouse that we use for testing, gas appliances, ranges, dryers, etc. and I don’t see that there’s any great hazard to them. I do generally shut the gas off when I’m leaving the building for extended period of time.

What’s your next Appliance project?

John

 

[thatwasherguy]

YAY!!

Glad to hear you got it all finished up. Hopefully, now that you've replaced the majority of the consumable parts, it will be able to run for another 30+ years, as that machine is about as close to new as a washer from the 80's can get!
Thatwasherguy.

 

[hosertp]

robbinsandmyers set the seed

Hello to all and I wish a very happy and prosperous 2024!

My A512 is working flawlessly thanks to all of your great counsel.
I am seriously considering rebuilding the Pittman transmission as it is always in my way and is just asking for attention. I would keep it as a safe second should the used orbital fail.
I read the entire thread where Eugene and Dan were discussing making a shaft replacement with new bushings which seems to have been completed, but there was no more activity on the thread after they were made? So before I make one transmission into 30 parts, I thought I would do a quick assessment of parts availability.
Any advice pointing me in the right direction will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,
Paul

 

[qsd-dan]

The only way to find out if the pitman transmission is frozen from the upper sleeve bearing is to pop the top half of the trans off and see if the shaft is still frozen in place.

There are not many parts inside these transmissions, it's not like a manual or automatic transmission out of a vehicle. Here's a video I made of a 906 washer 8 years ago that has some transmission shots in operation.

 

[askolover]

That's a great job!