Maytag A606 drive pulley install and stop lug adjustment

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oldschool

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I'm moving ahead with my A606 repair. I'm at the assembly stage and I'm pulling a brain fart. I'm reassembling the drive pulley and stop/drive lug. As I spin the drive pulley on to the drive shaft it spins right up until it bottoms against the brake housing. That can't be right??? I'm not quite sure were the drive pulley should be before setting up the proper gap between the stop lug on the pulley and the lug under the attaching screw. I found a site with a nice guide to do this, but for the life of me , I can't find it now. Can someone post some detailed info maybe with some pics to correctly show this reassembly procedure?

I'll post all of my pics when I complete this mission. Maybe I can return the favor and possibly help someone else here on the forum.

As always TIA

oldschool++4-18-2010-13-43-17.jpg
 
There's actually a long and short version, so I'll just stick with the short version.

Run the pulley up the shaft until it stops. Take the stop lug, with the flat side pointing down (towards the pulley), and install it to the left of the pulley stop (stop lug should be in the 9 o'clock position in reference to 12 o'clock position of the pulley lug). The goal is to position the stop lug until you get 1/4-3/8 play between the stop lug and pulley. I shoot for 1/4 (.25) of an inch, otherwise you may get a knocking sound during agitation. Don't go any tighter then .25, or it'll be engaging the brake and the motor has to overcome that during agitation.
 
Dan, would running the drive pulley up until it contacted the bottom of the brake assembly be acceptable? That's where mine goes to and stops. In my case the drive pulley isn't stopped by running out of threads on the drive shaft.
 
Lug adjustment - another version (longer - sorry!)

I just went through this as well on my '61 A700. Here is what I did based on the "06" - "10" service manual instructions - it may or may not be helpful. Those instructions seemed to be the simplest to me compared to some other manuals that I have as well as other sources on the 'net.

Preliminaries:

When I took my pulley off there was still some grease on the shaft threads that the pulley "climbs" up on, but it was old and thick. I wiped it off and replaced it with some fresh "Moly-graph" grease. There was also oil inside the dust cap - it was black so I cleaned it out. I also packed some of that new grease into the ball bearing that was under the pulley and rolled it around by hand to work it in. I also put a little on the part of the pulley that contacts the bearing. Nice and smooth... Make sure the bearing goes back on the way it came off (tapered side out) or you will have no brake! I also added a teaspoon of heavy oil to the brake package while I was at it to avoid squealing brake syndrome.

Now for the adjustment... The book said to block the transmission with something to keep it from spinning. I used a scrap piece of 2x4. It then said to run the pulley all the way up until the spring is fully compressed. It will stop then it is fully seated. Then, install the lug 180 degrees out from the pulley lug. For instance, if the pulley lug ends up at 12:00 you should install the drive lug at 6:00. Install the washer and screw. Release the pulley and it will unwind. Then, take the 2x4 out and start winding up the pulley again. What should happen is the pulley will climb up the shaft until it contacts the spring and starts to move the transmission. This is the point where you can check your adjustment. At this point, you should see about 3/8 of an inch between the lugs.

The result for me was proper braking and agitation. I also filled the rubber dust cap 1/3 - 1/2 full with heavy oil before putting it back on to keep the lugs oiled.

I will try to upload a picture of the page from the manual later.

That is what I did to adjust mine and all is well so far.

Andrew S.
 
Dan, would running the drive pulley up until it contacted the bottom of the brake assembly be acceptable?

Yeah, that works. You just don't want to run the pulley up beyond that point, or you'll be disengaging the brake and turning the transmission/basket assembly.

All you're trying to do is take up the play between the pulley and brake so you can position the stop lug in order to accomplish 1/4-3/8 inch play between the stop lug and pulley lug when gently rotated in the clockwise/counter-clockwise fashion. Taking up too much play will keep the brake engaged. Too much play, and you'll get a knocking sound during agitation.
 
What Andrew described is the longer version, which works, but it's just more time consuming and kind of a PITA since you have to prevent the transmission/tub assembly from rotating.
 
Jackpot! I knew something was missing but wasn't sure. It's been awhile since I broke this all down. I know exactly where that bearing is. On the bench at the machine shop where I cleaned the transmission components and housing. It's probably gone by now. OK. Once again thanks for the help guys.
I'll either find it still sitting on the workbench at the machine shop........Not........or it's time to buy another. RATS
 
Dan hit the nail on the head...

...with what he said:

"All you're trying to do is take up the play between the pulley and brake so you can position the stop lug in order to accomplish 1/4-3/8 inch play between the stop lug and pulley lug when gently rotated in the clockwise/counter-clockwise fashion. Taking up too much play will keep the brake engaged. Too much play, and you'll get a knocking sound during agitation."

I will post the pages from the book in case anyone wants to see them:

dnastrau++4-18-2010-20-11-38.jpg
 
Oh Yea.........I remember exactly what it looks like........

cleaned all the tranny stuff at my friends machine shop in his parts washer. I set the bearing aside because it still felt good and moved smoothly. I was going to reuse it. I didn't want to wash out the lube/grease because there is no way to repack it. It's pretty much a sealed bearing. Just wish now I had remembered to pick it up. Didn't get a chance to go by there today to look for it. I'll try tomorrow.
 
The pulley and radial bearings seem to last forever in these machines. I have yet to come across a bad one yet.
 
Success with the old reliable A606

My Maytag is back on line again. I couldn't have done it without all the help and advise I received from everyone here . Started out to be a repair and turned into a soft restoration. As a way of showing my appreciation I've documented the whole process. When I get some more time, I'll post all the pics I took. Hopefully it may help someone else. I've attached some of the final pics. I couldn't resist repainting the console as a way of putting the icing on the cake. The first shot here is the before shot.

oldschool++5-5-2010-08-50-52.jpg
 

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