Maytag A712 Question

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A long post I made a few years back. Some of this information may help.

www.automaticwasher.org

Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

To the best of my recollection this is my step by step rebuild, with photos, from last summer of a Maytag Newton style trans. put into a newer LAT model. I hope this is helpful to someone. Here’s the HA408 machine’s top. Almost hated to take it apart. It was salvageable. It came with a HDE606...
www.automaticwasher.org www.automaticwasher.org
 
Don,

Have you found a replacement or donor transmission yet? If you can find a parts machine you could snag one out of it. I've got a good one you can have but I don't know how much the shipping would cost. What part of Illinois are you in?

Brian
 
Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer

It sounds like you have it pretty well covered, answers to a few of your questions.

You should assemble the damper housing, supension springs, tub support arms and then screw the brake assembly in from below the baseplate, and then set the transmission in place. The brake assembly just gets screwed completly in place and locked in with the little bolt and clip.

The spring on the old agitator shaft is part of the old agitator shaft seal [ the new seal is an improved lip seal, so you don't need this part ], at this point it just gets recycled along with the old transmission.

It looks like you are having a fun rebuilding project and hopefully you will get many more years use out of this washer, however one of the problems of doing a rebuild like this is many of the NEW replacement parts are not as good as the orignal parts and the machine is not reassembled with the same quality controls as it was orignally, as result it will not likley last as long as it did the first time around without doing additional repair work over the comming years.

John L.
 
Brian and John,

Thank you for all of your information. Yes, I have all of the replacement parts and the new transmission. I purchased the majority of the parts from www.repairclinic.com, including the new transmission.

John, in reference to your statement: "The spring on the old agitator shaft is part of the old agitator shaft seal [ the new seal is an improved lip seal, so you don't need this part ], at this point it just gets recycled along with the old transmission." The new transmission's agitator shaft doesn't have the spring, but I am using the original agitator since it appears to be in good shape. Are you saying that I need to purchase a new agitator, or can use the existing one? I will post a photo of the new transmission and a close-up it's agitator shaft this afternoon, as I'm taking care of my 4 year old grandson this morning!

Thanks again for all of your input. I'm going to start the rebuild tomorrow.
 
John... Attached is a photo of the new transmission. I am a bit confused regarding the spring and seal on the old transmission's agitator shaft. Are you saying that with this new transmission (and seal) I don't need to use the spring? I just want to clarify that. And, do I need to remove the rubber boot from the bottom of the old transmission to use on the new one - since the new one did not come with one?

Everything else on the rebuild is pretty self-explanatory, especially with all of the help here, and the YouTube videos available on the A712. I just need to clarify the differences between the old and new transmission.

Thanks.

colloquor-2015012213552104650_1.jpg
 
Prior to disassembly, I took photos and also took measurements of everything. I'm pretty much an OCD person, and have an obsession with attention to detail. I guess this came from rebuilding BMW and SAAB engines over the years! Thus, I hope my QC on the A712 rebuild will be as close to factory assembly as possible. Probably not, but I'm going to do my best, and check and recheck all of the dimensions, etc. during each step.
 
Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer

Hi Don, I assume you are replacing the main water seal in the outer tub, it comes in a kit kit called a mounting stem assembly, this seal kit includes the aluminum part that the wash basket is bolted to. This mounting stem has a lip type water seal installed in the top of it, this lip type seal does not need the spring that is on your old transmissions agitator shaft.
 
Don,

If you read Drew's thread>

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?25520

again thoroughly you will see that the agitator drive shaft seal isn't absolutely necessary. It's just something that he added to help the new type mounting stem with built in lip seal work better. They have a tendency to fail more than the old type mounting stem with separate drive shaft seal. The spring and washer are inside the agitator drive shaft seal and you normally don't see them. It's reply #22, 23 and 24.

I've done it and it worked well for me.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?38714 Reply #138, 139 and 140. This is what it looks like.

Like John said, you don't have to do this but it might make your repair last longer.

http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-Fo...A4298-Model-A806-Maytag-Washing-Machine-Parts RepairClinic Item # 1480327 or this>

http://partsdr.com/part/6-0a57420-agitator-drive-shaft-seal/

You put the small end down over the drive shaft, add some grease to the inside threads of the mounting stem and the top of the drive shaft seal, put the mounting stem on, turn it down until snug and give the spanner wrench a few taps with a mini-sledge , (not a rubber mallet like I mentioned in my thread) following the rest of Drew's instructions. You'll be able to see the agitator drive shaft seal pushing up against the lip seal on the mounting stem. That's what makes it last longer. It's just a suggestion.

And the rubber water deflector that's on the bottom of your old transmission will need to be moved to your new one. This thing> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...6/454354?modelNumber=A806&ss=a11b4d83319&mr=1

Brian
 
combo52 and Brian,

Thanks for the all of the tips and information. Yes, I am replacing the mounting stem and seal kit (I ordered one separately, but one was included with the new transmission as well), and the outer tub bearing repair kit. I am replacing all mechancial parts that can be replaced!

However, one part that I have not ordered, but will order today thanks to Brian's input, is the agitator drive shaft seal. Although apparently not absolutely required, I am going to order one and install it. RepairClinic is out of stock at the moment, but PartSelect has them in stock.

With all of the help, and insight, that I've had here, as well as the videos on YouTube, and the instructions provided with the ordered parts, the rebuild should go well.

I sincerely thank everyone for all of their excellent assistance. I'm planning to use high-temp synthetic wheel bearing grease for all of the bearings, splines, etc., but if anyone has a better suggestion on which grease to use, please advise.

Don
 
Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer

Top agitator shaft seals, Hi Everyone, The orignal type seal was pressed against a SS washer, I am very skeptical as to whether it is a good idea to put this upward pressure against the bottom of a lip type seal that is being used in the new mounting stem. If this pressure dislodges the lip seal you are done, or if the pressure just causes the seal to open up a little again you are done, the old type seal will not work without the SS washer being held in the proper place with the retainer clip, are you also putting the clip and washer under the lip seal ?.

 

John L.
 
Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer

Hi Brain, I did not say Drew's method is necessarily wrong and yes I saw his orignal post about using the extra seal, I am only saying I WOULD NOT DO IT, with a brand new transmission- agitator shaft I don't see the need and it might cause a problem and without the SS washer it will not likely work in any event.

 

After this dual seal method is used on a hundred or so machines and after 15-20 years goes by I might change my mind, but at this time I don't think it is a good idea.

 

John L.
 
Well, the old seal can be used with the new stem mount because I've done it. The stainless washer isn't used. That's explained in my thread as well as Drew's. Whether it lasts for ten or fifteen years, I'll have to let you know. It's worked well for over three and I'd do it again if needed. Drew might chime in on this since it was his idea but if I were him I'm not sure I'd want to. Peace out.
 
upward pressure against the bottom of a lip type seal

I've wondered about that myself.

How about simply reusing the original stem mount with a new boot and agitator shaft seal?
 
Outer Tub/Spin Tub Clearance

I have everything back together on the A712 rebuild with the exception of the "old fashioned' tub cover, and its bleach hose and water fill hose, and the agitator. I have a new tub cover gasket, and have cleaned both the outer tub and tub cover, so that is hopefully my next step.

As I stated in an earlier post, I'm really OCD and pay very close attention to detail, thus I took a number of photos with my digicam during the disasembly. One thing I noted during disassembly was the space or clearance between the spin tub and the outer tub was equal on the sides (9 and 3 o'clock positions), but not equal - more space or clearance at the front (6 o'clock position) than the back (12 o'clock position). Is this normal? My logical brain tells me that the space should be equal around the circumference of the spin tub and outer tub - but, maybe not.

If the space should be equal all the way around the spin tub within the outer tub, what's the problem? Could it have been mis-centered from the Maytag factory? As I said, it was this way before I began the disassembly.

Attached is a front-view JPG of the circa 1990 LA712 moved out of the workshop area into the basement hallway adjacent to the laundry room. If the inner tub clearance anomaly is a problem, it gets rolled back into the workshop ASAP.

Thanks,
Don

colloquor-2015012417170508609_1.jpg
 
The A712 Rebuild Complete

The Maytag A712 rebuild is finished. I pushed it into the laundry room, and did several test runs with various water levels and cycles. All works fine - agitates fine, spins fine, no leaks, no spin tub rubs, and sounds good with less vibration that before. The toughest task of the entire rebuild was the installation, and adjustment, of the old-style outer tub top cover. it took several tries to get the clearance exactly correct.

Attached is a JPG of the machine in the basement hallway as before, as I can't get a wide shot in its location next to the Maytag companion D713 gas dryer due to lack of space.

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice and input on this project. It is sincerely appreciated. I'm tired, but pleased, and my wife is happy to have her A712 back in service again - and more importantly, no more trips to the laundramat! Although the A712 probably won't last another 24 years, but then again, neither will I.

Thanks again,
Don

colloquor-2015012423564800661_1.jpg
 

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