Maytag A712 Washer Won't Agitate

[ggantt]

New member here and first post. Hoping to get help from the group in diagnosing an issue with my mother's Maytag A712 washer that will no longer agitate. I've replaced belts and refreshed the motor carrier springs and bushings, but once the agitation cycle starts, the main drive belt will just slip on the motor pulley. The spin cycle and pump operates just fine, with the brake stopping the spin motion in about 5 seconds.

With the washer laying on its back, I am able to disengage the brake by turning the drive pulley clockwise (spin direction) where I can then rotate the counterweight on pittman-style transmission with little effort. However, when I try to rotate the pulley counter-clockwise (agitation direction), I am unable to turn the pulley and it takes a lot of effort the move the counterweight on the transmission. For my first attempt at repair, I had removed the brake to inspect, lubricate bearings, and adjusted the drive lug to be just against the pulley lug when the brake just disengages.

When I turn the transmission counterweight counter-clockwise, it feels as though I'm fighting against the brake itself that I suspect is engaged and putting too much strain on the motor that causes the belt to slip. When the motor runs counter-clockwise, is it normal for there to be this much tension on the drive pulley? If abnormal, is there a way I can diagnose the source of excessive tension (brake, transmission, other)? Any other steps or guidance on how to diagnose this issue? Appreciate what insights you all may have on the matter. Thanks.

Greg

 

[repairguy]

The bearing inside the transmission has seized to the agitator shaft. This has been the downfall of many Maytag washers.

 

[qsd-dan]

Upper sleeve bearings and shaft have seized. Through the mid 2000's, one could purchase a new upper transmission housing from Maytag that contains new bearings and a shaft, slap it in, and be on your merry way.

 

Couple of choices: You can find another pitman transmission from a donor machine and install it. Any tall tub pitman transmission from 1966-1989 is a direct fit. Another choice is to purchase an orbital transmission which was used from 1989-2006 for a tall tub and use that. You'll need the proper agitator to match the transmission as the agitation stroke is different. There are still some new ones floating around but they're getting a bit expensive.

 

Your washer is a TOL (top of the line) model and sought after. If you decide to give up on it, put it up for sale in the shoppers square.

 

[good-shepherd]

a new upper transmission housing

AW member "Combo52" (John) is in Maryland and probably has the donor parts needed to either swap the trans or rehab.

These machines can run a long time but everything needs maintenance at some point. Fortunately, MT's are very rebuildable for the medium to advanced DIY'er and most common parts are still available.

 

[ggantt]

Thank you Repairguy, gsd-dan, and Good-Shepard for your quick replies and diagnosis. My preference would be to repair/replace the original pitman-style transmission rather than convert it to the newer orbital style.

I figure I'll first get the transmission out and inspect the bearing and shaft before deciding on how best to fix. Who knows, maybe I'll get lucky with penetrating oil to release the bearing and not have any damage to the shaft. I will reach out to Combo52 as Good-Shepard suggested regarding any parts near me in DE I may need once I am able to assess the damage.

As for the transmission removal, is it possible to do this from the front and bottom of the washer without removing the tub assembly from the top? I ask this because I would prefer not to have to also rebuild the tub assembly if possible so I can limit the scope of work and cost.

Greg

 

[repairguy]

Yes both tubs will have to be removed to get the transmission out. So you will also need a tub seal kit and probably a tub bearing assembly. If you get all of this done correctly the machine should go another 30+ years with minimal repair in the future.

 

[combo52]

Sized Transmission

Hi Greg,

 

This is a big job to repair, and and several other parts will likely be needed, easiest fix is to find another newer washer, possibility swap out the top and controls from your washer if you want it to look the same.

 

If you have not done this type repair before it may take 20-50 hours of your time learning to dissemble and reassemble and cost from $200-500 in parts to complete repairs, the machine will be out of commission for at least several weeks or much longer.

 

If you want to repair I will advise as much as possible.

 

John L.

 

[good-shepherd]

you will also need a tub seal kit

A failed stem boot seal could be the reason for the seized agitator shaft from water intrusion.

The stem boot seal and tub bearing are common wear points on Maytag washers.

 

[qsd-dan]

You'll want to visit Brian's fantastic rebuild thread.

 

Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

To the best of my recollection this is my step by step rebuild, with photos, from last summer of a Maytag Newton style trans. put into a newer LAT model. I hope this is helpful to someone. Here’s the HA408 machine’s top. Almost hated to take it apart. It was salvageable. It came with a HDE606...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[ggantt]

Status Update

Some progress - I removed the transmission and did find the agitator shaft and bushings were seized as expected. With some penetrating oil and manipulation I was able to get the shaft to turn where I then drove out the pin for the pinion gear and removed the shaft. After thoroughly cleaning and working the shaft and bushings lightly with 1200 grit sandpaper, the lightly oiled shaft now turns like butter in the upper housing and has no lateral play.

So it's now on to acquiring the parts and materials needed for reassembly. I've listed below the parts that I believe are needed to complete rebuild. Please comment if I've missed anything; hopefully this list with current part numbers will be helpful to others in tackling this repair.

There are a few parts however that I haven't been able to locate. They are the 22210632 Transmission Gasket, Agitator Shaft Groove Pin 210183, and Agitator Shaft O-Ring WP210690. If anyone has a line on where I can source these hard to find parts, I'd be most appreciative. Thanks.

Greg
- - - -
Maytag A712 Parts List

Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit 6-2095720
Transmission Oil 34 oz. 6-0560800
New Style Agitator Seal WP6-0A57420
WP211232 Tub cover gasket
6-2040130 Tub Bearing, Sleeve, and Tub Washers
22210632 Transmission Gasket
Lower Shaft O-Ring WP210286
Front Tub Bolt W10175939 (1)
Rear Tub Bolts W10175938 (2)
Agitator Shaft Groove Pin 210183 - NLA
Lower Shaft Pinion Gear 210315
Agitator Shaft O-Ring WP210690
Turbine Oil

 

[qsd-dan]

Transmission gasket

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353956850497?hash=item526978eb41:g:gBYAAOSwA91iLH1m

The agitator shaft o-ring isn't a wearing part, it just deflects water away from the transmission if a leak occurs. Reuse the one you have if it's still there and didn't break. You should easily be able to match one up if it's missing or broken. It doesn't have to be exact. The groove pin will be a very difficult one to find. If you didn't mar, distort, or mushroom the groove pin during the removal process, you should be able to reuse it with out any issues.

 

[good-shepherd]

where I can source these hard to find parts

You can get most parts on Ebay. Some parts can be re-used like the tub bolts if the seals aren't too chewed up and a little RTV sealant. Same for the tub cover gasket.

Lower agitator o-ring can replaced with a correct sized generic Viton o-ring. Turbine oil is available at Ace Hardware and elsewhere under the Zoom Spout name or Supco.

Here is a post with older Maytag part #'s:

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?25520

 

[good-shepherd]

Tub bearing:

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[good-shepherd]

Mounting stem kit

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[good-shepherd]

Maytag Trans oil

The OEM Maytag trans lubricant is getting hard to find and expensive, Fortunately Advance Auto/Carquest has a gallon size GL-4 90 wt. gear oil at a reasonable price which is safe for Maytag transmissions.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...p-90-gl-4-gear-oil-1-gallon-990-01/10899976-P

That wasn't available when I last rebuilt a Maytag trans and had to used Sta-Lube 85-90 wt. GL-4.

Another thread of very meticulous MT rebuild:

Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

To the best of my recollection this is my step by step rebuild, with photos, from last summer of a Maytag Newton style trans. put into a newer LAT model. I hope this is helpful to someone. Here’s the HA408 machine’s top. Almost hated to take it apart. It was salvageable. It came with a HDE606...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[robbinsandmyers]

" GL-4 is suitable for hypoid gear service when they are under severe service but are without shock loading. GL-5 is suitable for hypoid gear service under severe service and shock loads and not for use in a gearbox. "

Quoted from an internet lube supplier. That said I think GL5 would be fine as well in a brake package but deff not the trans on a Maytag.

 

[ryner1988]

Following this thread...

I'm following your journey with this washer because I now have a similar one. I'm not under any illusions that I can do the repairs myself being disabled, but it's still fascinating to see what all goes into having one repaired. I'm interested to see whether you are able to restore this one.