Maytag A806 Tune Up

[qsd-dan]

If you're going to test for leaks, tape the lid down, remove the 2 screws at the corners under the top panel and raise it 90 degrees. This makes detecting leaks, particularly during the spin cycle, much easier to locate in real time. I test all of my post 1965 machines this way.

I have a bad feeling you're going to find leaks around the band seal during the spin cycle (be sure to test this with a full tub of water). As mentioned above, check the water injector and injector hose (particularly where it connects to the tub) for leaks during the initial fill portion of the cycle, located on the left side.

 

[joefuss1984]

Damper Pad Cleanup

Does it hurt the finish on the base to take a wire brush to clean the old glue off, or is another instrument better? My new damper pads and adhesive has been ordered.

If I wanted extra poly-lube for the motor glides, will the product in the attached link work? Is it the same thing as Maytag poly lube?

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www.walmart.com

 

[d-jones]

I would try a product like Goof Off first. If it works it won't harm the paint the way a wire brush is likely to. I've used it on old adhesives before with good results.

 

[good-shepherd]

take a wire brush to clean the old glue off

I wouldn't get too aggressive removing the old adhesive, better not to damage the factory coating on base plate.

Just a mild degreaser or solvent as suggested. I've used WD-40 for adhesive removal without damaging the underlying finish.

The service manual link above doesn't mention removing the old adhesive only residual grease.

 

[good-shepherd]

Is it the same thing as Maytag poly lube

Nope.

Poly-Lube is Maytag's name for silicone grease, also known as dialectic grease. Sold in auto part stores for use on spark plug boots, electrical connections, brake calipers. etc.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Cle...ive&sprefix=3m+silicon+,automotive,151&sr=1-1

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www.amazon.com

 

[joefuss1984]

Adhesive Removal

So I’m trying to remove the adhesive with the goof off and not have very good luck. I spent an hour and just got the front area done and used 1/3 of the can on that one area. Any other suggestions?

 

[eurekastar]

Adhesive Removal

I always just use Acetone and a little bit of elbow grease. 

 

[robbinsandmyers]

I would just go over it with a fresh coat of Goodyear Pliobond , install the new pads and call it a day. Should be fine.

 

[d-jones]

As eurekastar mentioned, acetone will definitely work, but it will also soften the paint while you're using it(it'll recover when you're done)so use it carefully.

 

[qsd-dan]

Acetone will clean up the old sticky pad and glue residue but as Dave mentioned, it will remove the paint. There's no need to remove the glue that doesn't have any reminiscent pad material, just leave it alone.

When you lay the glue down, cover up any bare metal areas of removed paint. This will prevent the base from rusting.

I'd personally remove the entire working unit for better accessibility. All damper pads I've installed are with the unit and cabinet off of the base, nothing attached. It's hard enough with those removed to get the damper pads properly aligned with base cone and properly spaced out from each other since the glue flash drys in a matter of seconds once the damper pads touch it. It requires one to be very quick and precise in an extremely short period of time. I can't imagine doing that job with the cabinet attached and the milk stool floating slightly above that area.

 

[joefuss1984]

Thanks QSD-DAN. That helps. This is my first damper pad change. It shows huh lol

 

[qsd-dan]

It shows huh lol

We all gotta start somewhere

It's those of us who are persistent that reap the benefits. You'll find in life that overcoming the biggest obstacles usually reaps the biggest rewards.

 

[good-shepherd]

Any other suggestions

Yeah, leave it alone.

Installl the new pads right over the old adhesive which is obviously bonded on there pretty damn hard..

The new adhesive may even act as a solvent and blend with the old adhesive before curing.

As mentioned, the Maytag service manual doesn't say a word about removing old adhesive.

 

[joefuss1984]

Progress!!

Damper pads replaced and lubricated. Water test shows no leaks at all. I think there may have been one in the past that was repaired which led to all of the dried water on the outer tub. I’m having problems finding turbine oil at a hardware store. The pump whines and I think that will quiet it down. The motor sounds rough on the gentle speed but not so bad on regular. I need to take it off and lube the glides. Does this motor have any place to oil or is it sealed.

One more question. Even tho I marked the eye bolts with tape as the machine runs it pulls the tub to the back right. I should loosen that one a little right?

 

[robbinsandmyers]

Zoom Spout oiler

I just order a few at a time off Ebay or Amazon depending on whos got the best deal at the mo, along with my Kroil. Make sure the machine is sitting level first before attempting to adjust its tub balance. I would advise replacing those motor slides with new ones, try to find round ones if you can on Ebay.

 

[hobbyapocalypse]

Overflowing suds

might have left their marks on the tub. I'm happy to hear there are no leaks!

That's a good question about oiling the motor. I don't see a practical way to do it and if there was I think it would say so in the service manual, but it doesn't.

 

[good-shepherd]

having problems finding turbine oil

Try Ace Hardware for the Turbine oil.

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www.acehardware.com

 

[qsd-dan]

That motor is sealed but you can drill a small hole just large enough at both end caps and gravity feed some turbine oil to the wick. These style motors have very large size wicking material at both ends that's doused in turbine oil. I wouldn't bother oiling those but I've been through enough of them to convince myself it isn't needed.

I've also been through a slew of the older round style motors and even those that have seen an insane amount of use with more than 1/8" end play on the commutator shaft still have more than enough traces of oil on the wick and shaft when taken apart. I still take them apart, blow them with compressed air, lube the wicks/shaft, check and clean motor switch contacts, lube the centrifugal switch, and set end play at 1/16 inch if needed simply for peace of mind.

Dryer motors are a completely different story. ALWAYS oil those whenever possible. Heat radiating around and through them drys out the wicking material and causing the commutator shaft to seize up.

 

[rp2813]

I don't know of any belt driven TL washer that wasn't louder on slow agitation.  My A712 is louder, and sometimes but not terribly often, there will be a rattling sound from the motor, on the exterior like maybe a speed changing component.  The cause of the rattle corrects itself within a minute or less and that's that.  I've never felt the need to investigate it.

 

As stated above, most ACE Hardware stores carry ZoomSpout turbine oil.

 

[daveamkrayoguy]

Neat, old time full-featured washer...

Good luck on your way to getting her to work...

-- Dave