Maytag brake removal tool is back

[lorainfurniture]

I’m getting a new shipment of brake tools soon. Limited quantities. Aw members use the coupon code automatic for additional discount

https://lorainfurniture.com/shop/ap...ured-maytag-washer-brake-removal-tool-038315/
https://lorainfurniture.com/shop/ap...ured-maytag-washer-brake-removal-tool-038315/

 

[handyboy]

What about trying to locate the brake itself? I've been trying to find the website that showed it (cannot remember if ebay, aliexpress or amazon) or even some other site. It is really the only problematic part the machine has had in its' 35 year life so far, and the rest of the machine is in very nice condition!

 

[phillymatt53]

What about trying to locate the brake itself? I've been trying to find the website that showed it (cannot remember if ebay, aliexpress or amazon) or even some other site. It is really the only problematic part the machine has had in its' 35 year life so far, and the rest of the machine is in very nice condition!

Beware of ANYthing sold at aliexpress!

 

[qsd-dan]

What about trying to locate the brake itself? I've been trying to find the website that showed it (cannot remember if ebay, aliexpress or amazon) or even some other site. It is really the only problematic part the machine has had in its' 35 year life so far, and the rest of the machine is in very nice condition!

What's the problem with the brake? If it's making noise, it just needs a few tablespoons of oil. If the tub is indexing, that's kind of problem as the internal springs weakens with age. You may be able to shim the spring with washers to get some tension back.

I have an NOS spring on hand and thought about sending it off to a spring company to make a batch of new ones. Not sure if there's enough demand for that but maybe there is now that the brake is a discontinued part.

 

[goatfarmer]

I've never seen a Maytag with a brake problem, except the squealing mentioned.

 

[sel8207]

I've never seen a Maytag with a brake problem, except the squealing mentioned.

The brakes do wear out (get much shorter and less effective), but I think they're still available. the tool seems kinda expensive though. maybe a used tool from eBay is findable.....then maybe not.

 

[qsd-dan]

The brakes do wear out (get much shorter and less effective), but I think they're still available. the tool seems kinda expensive though. maybe a used tool from eBay is findable.....then maybe not.

Brakes are NLA and dried up. There was a new one on Ebay a couple of days ago for $400 and it was (surprisingly) purchased.

Some may pop up from time to time but the days of just ordering one immediately are GONE.

The brake tool used to go for $50-ish before discontinuation. I bought a couple of them used for under $20 over 15 years ago. I knew these days were coming so the hoarding was aggressive back then.

 

[Chetlaham]

This is why we need timeless classics. Tools and parts would always available at a relatively low price, and when the machine is truly beyond reasonable repair you can buy the exact same trusted dependability you've come to know and love brand new. Imagine if everyone who has a 30 year old Dependable Care now could buy the exact same machine brand new in 2025.

 

[pdamian1730]

I have seen many brakes that had been in a flood go bad , but you may be able to save them by replacing the oil in the brake package, you must use the thick transmission fluid for this, very easy to do by tipping the machine remove the pulley, put the oil in the lip of the brake package, as much as you can ,

 

[robbinsandmyers]

This is why we need timeless classics. Tools and parts would always available at a relatively low price, and when the machine is truly beyond reasonable repair you can buy the exact same trusted dependability you've come to know and love brand new. Imagine if everyone who has a 30 year old Dependable Care now could buy the exact same machine brand new in 2025.

It would probably be $3000.00 with the same cast iron pitman trans LOL

 

[qsd-dan]

It would probably be $3000.00 with the same cast iron pitman trans LOL

More then that. $3K for a BOL model, at least.

 

[handyboy]

Beware of ANYthing sold at aliexpress!

I've bought a few things from aliexpress, however quality did not matter. What a local appliance repairman told me to use is a VISE-GRIP with chain tool. It does wrap around the brake but I will need to attach some leather or rubber tube over the brake to the chain does not slip. The brake will then be easily removed. I've thought about taking the brake apart after that, but I do not have a press to hold the brake together as there is a 200lb spring inside wanting to push everything apart, and if I release the 8 bolts without a press, then it will fly apart and bite me! So I am getting things organized, still waiting for the wp6-2011900 brake to reach the border from NC. D&L is the distributor but they do not ship to Canada.

 

[qsd-dan]

I've thought about taking the brake apart after that, but I do not have a press to hold the brake together as there is a 200lb spring inside wanting to push everything apart, and if I release the 8 bolts without a press, then it will fly apart and bite me!

No need for a press, here's a trick to opening it up without the use of special tools:

Replace every other brake drum retaining screw...one at a time... with 1 ½” long 8-32 machine screw and snug them against the drake drum. Remove the four remaining brake drum screws and then alternately the four long machine screws just inserted. The idea is to lower the brake down evenly to avoid bending it. As the screws are loosened, the brake spring will reach the limit of its extension. You will run out of spring pressure before you run out of screw thread.

 

[handyboy]

Brakes are NLA and dried up. There was a new one on Ebay a couple of days ago for $400 and it was (surprisingly) purchased.

Some may pop up from time to time but the days of just ordering one immediately are GONE.

The brake tool used to go for $50-ish before discontinuation. I bought a couple of them used for under $20 over 15 years ago. I knew these days were coming so the hoarding was aggressive back then.

My brake is about $200CA shipping included. I have yet to receive it! I am in process of removing brake and disassembly.

 

[handyboy]

I DID IT! I removed the brake from my washer. Last week I purchased n Irwin VISE-GRIP locking chain clamp 9" or 225cm. At first it would not grab the brake, so last night I took a bicycle inner tube cut it, and prepared both the brake and tube "properly" and glued the the tube to the brake using contact cement. This morning with wife's help, I put the clamp on the brake, FINALLY!, took my hammer and hit the grips and the brake came loose. Now, I can carry the brake with me wherever I go and one never knows where I might need it!

Thanks to all who offered their suggestions. Now I await the arrival of my new brake.

 

[sel8207]

I have seen many brakes that had been in a flood go bad , but you may be able to save them by replacing the oil in the brake package, you must use the thick transmission fluid for this, very easy to do by tipping the machine remove the pulley, put the oil in the lip of the brake package, as much as you can ,

What kind, type of oil goes in the Maytag 806 brake package? is it simply trans fluid?

 

[handyboy]

What kind, type of oil goes in the Maytag 806 brake package? is it simply trans fluid?

Well I took my whirlpool/maytag brake apart a few minutes ago and it seems to be in next to new condition. Paper seal is torn at one point,, other than that it looks great. But, having opened it up, how much oil goes inside and yes, what type of oil, -> (WP6-2011900)BRK ASSY.?

 

[qsd-dan]

What kind, type of oil goes in the Maytag 806 brake package? is it simply trans fluid?

Gear oil, 80 or 90 weight. Originally, Maytag transmission oil was used to lubricate it but the genuine stuff is hard to find now and expensive.

 

[pdamian1730]

What kind, type of oil goes in the Maytag 806 brake package? is it simply trans fluid?

Yes, that is what Maytag recomends.

 

[burned]

Gear oil, 80 or 90 weight. Originally, Maytag transmission oil was used to lubricate it but the genuine stuff is hard to find now and expensive.

How much of the gear oil should be inside the brake assembly when refilling?

 

[qsd-dan]

How much of the gear oil should be inside the brake assembly when refilling?

Did you completely empty it or are you just topping it off?

 

[burned]

Did you completely empty it or are you just topping it off?

I have yet to open it. I want to know before hand in case I need to refill.
My main concern is the bearing at the moment.
The washer was squealing on the spin cycle and rubber smell. I put on new Maytag belts but still getting that rubber smell.

 

[qsd-dan]

If the brake squeals during spin down (braking), add 2-3 tablespoons of 80/90 gear oil to the brake. This is usually sufficient.

Your problem with the belt squealing make be the tub bearing starting to lock up, usually from the stem seal seeping water into it.

 

[burned]

I found a seal kit on Amazon (6-2095720) cant find any locally.
I found (6-2040130 Whirlpool part) at my local supplier

I am not sure about doing the tub bearing yet. I do not see any water leaks and there is no play in the shaft when I grab the agitator and try to rock it back and forth.
Right now I am going to focus on the brake assembly by adding gear oil and check the bearing above it. Will I need to loosen the bolts to get oil into the brake assembly? I did notice the brake assembly is sticky on top, maybe the transmission seal is leaking?

BTW my model is LAT7400ABW
Thank you for the information

 

[qsd-dan]

Only aftermarket stem and boot seal kits are available since Whirlpool discontinued them a couple of years back and, unfortunately, the quality isn't anywhere near the originals. Just keep that in mind.

The tub bearing is still available from Whirlpool (Whirlpool bought out Maytag in 2006) and the same high quality product from yesteryear. Here's an NOS one from Ebay for a good price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/177476973621

You won't see water leaks until the seal totally fails, it can very slowly seep into the agitator shaft and tub bearing areas for many years without leaking one drop externally.

Keep in mind that adding gear oil to the brake assembly only lubricates the brake friction material as it's a wet braking design. This has zero effect on the spin cycle. You can remove the radial bearing on top of the brake package and inspect it but it's very rare that this part fails without making a racket, they generally roar like crazy during the failure stage.

This is what a bad radial bearing sounds like when it's on it's way out:



The brake is lubricated without disassembly, you'll see a small 360 degree lip underneath where oil can be added.

Make sure the sliding motor carriage tracks are clean, well lubricated, and the assembly glides very smoothly forward and backwards. Make sure the both motor carriage springs are present. All pulleys (motor, transmission, pump) are clean with zero traces of oil or belt material. Use brake clean and a paper towel. Keep cleaning until the paper towel shows zero contamination.

It's worth checking the pump bearing by removing the belt and slowly spinning the pump pulley. It should spin smooth and easily without any rough spots. Check the belt tension of the pump by pinching the belt in the middle and slowly squeezing until the motor carriage deflects with the machine on the ground. The distance between the belt should be on the loose side of 1/4 inch distance. The tighter the pump belt is adjusted, the looser the transmission belt becomes. For this reason, it's best to be slightly on the looser side of the pump belt adjustment than too tight.

 

[burned]

Awesome info, thanks
I will try all that and test before trying the tub bearing replacement.