The pictures
that I took today.
that I took today.
Maytag center dial dryer ID- 806?
- Thread starter lowefficiency
- Start date
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Perfect, thanks!
So I would need a little paint or a panel swap for the gold/blue, adding or removing the chrome strip, and then an aluminum dial and they'd be a match. Shouldn't be too difficult...
Based on this reference for the 806 series changes:
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?22010
Your washer is from somewhere between late 1971 and early 1975? (Painted dial, but with the acrylic knob).
So I would need a little paint or a panel swap for the gold/blue, adding or removing the chrome strip, and then an aluminum dial and they'd be a match. Shouldn't be too difficult...
Based on this reference for the 806 series changes:
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?22010
Your washer is from somewhere between late 1971 and early 1975? (Painted dial, but with the acrylic knob).
I can get a serial number tomorrow.
Ok, we're making good progress with the cleanup, oiling, and re-assembly, but I have a question about the idler pulley.
Should there be anything between the idler pulley and the tensioning spring? Perhaps another fiber washer, or a spacer of some sort? (See photo attached.)
Also, is it normal for the idler pulley to be a few degrees out of alignment with the other pulleys due to the pull of the tensioning spring, or do I need to replace the sliding part with the shaft to fix that?
Thanks!
Should there be anything between the idler pulley and the tensioning spring? Perhaps another fiber washer, or a spacer of some sort? (See photo attached.)
Also, is it normal for the idler pulley to be a few degrees out of alignment with the other pulleys due to the pull of the tensioning spring, or do I need to replace the sliding part with the shaft to fix that?
Thanks!
It's a little tricky to see, but here is what I was saying about the pulley alignment.
One last question. How should this style of motor be lubricated? I'm not seeing any obvious oiling points...
Thanks.
Thanks.
Any thoughts on my idler pulley? If I need to fix or change anything before putting this dryer back into service, it would be a LOT easier to do now before we get it installed. 
Thanks
Thanks
hippiedoll
Well-known member
CONGRATULATIONS!!
On buying that DE806, and getting it up, running & back into service!
Looks like you're coming along nicely. And it's looking really great!
Sorry I can't answer any of your fix-it questions. But I wanted to share in your enthusiasm for your newly acquired center-dial maytag 806 dryer.
WOOOO HOOOOOO!
)
Keep up the GREAT work & progress!!
On buying that DE806, and getting it up, running & back into service!
Looks like you're coming along nicely. And it's looking really great!
Sorry I can't answer any of your fix-it questions. But I wanted to share in your enthusiasm for your newly acquired center-dial maytag 806 dryer.
WOOOO HOOOOOO!
)Keep up the GREAT work & progress!!
Where does the time go? I can't believe it's been almost 2 1/2 years... but after fixing it up so long ago, this DE806 is finally now back in service!
Here are a few quick photos, from my other thread about my recently acquired A408 washer:
"A Second Chance for a Rusty Maytag A408"
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?77619
We still need to have some electrical work done on the house, so for the time being I have the dryer wired for 120V (aka 115V, aka 110V). We've done over a dozen loads now, of all types of clothing and bedding, and couldn't be more pleased with how well it operates. I'm half tempted to just keep it at 120V because it works so well, but I know that it's less efficient, as the house furnace has to heat more makeup air when the dryer runs longer.
Anyone know why Maytag (and others) didn't make ALL dryers just sense the fabric moisture this way, like the 806s? It seems simple, and it works very well as far as I can see...
Here are a few quick photos, from my other thread about my recently acquired A408 washer:
"A Second Chance for a Rusty Maytag A408"
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?77619
We still need to have some electrical work done on the house, so for the time being I have the dryer wired for 120V (aka 115V, aka 110V). We've done over a dozen loads now, of all types of clothing and bedding, and couldn't be more pleased with how well it operates. I'm half tempted to just keep it at 120V because it works so well, but I know that it's less efficient, as the house furnace has to heat more makeup air when the dryer runs longer.
Anyone know why Maytag (and others) didn't make ALL dryers just sense the fabric moisture this way, like the 806s? It seems simple, and it works very well as far as I can see...
>> Any tips on getting the top/front off of this machine?
What you have to do on these is remove the back first, then disconnect the wiring. After that, I believe it was just some screws on the sides at the bottom, and the whole thing (sides, front, and top) lifts off and forward.
I don't think I ever separated the pieces any further than that, as that gave me all of the maintenance access I needed. I do remember using wood shims against the floor to help level/align it when reinstalling though. Having a helper would be beneficial as well. Good luck!
What you have to do on these is remove the back first, then disconnect the wiring. After that, I believe it was just some screws on the sides at the bottom, and the whole thing (sides, front, and top) lifts off and forward.
I don't think I ever separated the pieces any further than that, as that gave me all of the maintenance access I needed. I do remember using wood shims against the floor to help level/align it when reinstalling though. Having a helper would be beneficial as well. Good luck!
After years in regular service, it looks like this machine is going to need a door switch replacement. Everything functions normally, it just doesn't stop when the door is opened.
Am I correct that this requires pulling the whole cabinet off to access? It sure seems that way from the KDG606 we just disassembled, but I didn't know if there were any shortcuts...
Am I correct that this requires pulling the whole cabinet off to access? It sure seems that way from the KDG606 we just disassembled, but I didn't know if there were any shortcuts...
Sometimes you can slide the cabinet forward just enough to reach it.
The door switch on the customized Maytag HOH dryer I just finished a few weeks ago isn’t functioning but since there’s no small children around the house, not really worried about it. Since it’s a timer model, just turn the timer to the off position if you need to check on something.
I agree with goatfarmer, just slide the cabinet out a little, remove the 4 screws that hold the heating halo to the front of the cabinet, remove the 2 small phillips screws that hold the upper door hinge/door switch. May even be possible to remove the top panel off of the machine to get access to the door switch. Pretty sure that’s how most authorized Maytag repair personnel replace the door switch since removing the entire cabinet off from the base would have been expensive because of the labor that’s involved.
I agree with goatfarmer, just slide the cabinet out a little, remove the 4 screws that hold the heating halo to the front of the cabinet, remove the 2 small phillips screws that hold the upper door hinge/door switch. May even be possible to remove the top panel off of the machine to get access to the door switch. Pretty sure that’s how most authorized Maytag repair personnel replace the door switch since removing the entire cabinet off from the base would have been expensive because of the labor that’s involved.
Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot.
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