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Maytag DC+ set
- Thread starter goatfarmer
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Drool!
lawrence
lawrence
I have a similar set, in white.
That was the TOL mechanical set. I had the same dryer that lasted 27 years.
My washer came in on a trade in pile. Needed belts, and a new cord, someone cut the old one. The dryer was a C/L find, pretty much rebuilt it. New motor, belt, rollers, glides, heating element, over the years.
These later dependable Care Maytag washers
Were really by far the best performing version of this machine in its 50 year run.
They even made a version that was heavily sound insulated.
They redesigned the wash basket and tub cover, which really pretty much eliminated the streaking problem on dark clothes from sediment that was spun back onto the clothing as it tried to pump the water out, the load sensor agitator was the biggest improvement with the orbital transmission, much larger capacity, and almost eliminated clothing damage from the powerful agitator.
But just like GE Filter Flow washers and whirlpool belt drive machines there were many major flaws in the dependable care washer, and they knew it’s time was done so additional improvements were never done.
If you were a laundry engineer, what changes would you make to any of these three designs to have made them run longer?
John
Were really by far the best performing version of this machine in its 50 year run.
They even made a version that was heavily sound insulated.
They redesigned the wash basket and tub cover, which really pretty much eliminated the streaking problem on dark clothes from sediment that was spun back onto the clothing as it tried to pump the water out, the load sensor agitator was the biggest improvement with the orbital transmission, much larger capacity, and almost eliminated clothing damage from the powerful agitator.
But just like GE Filter Flow washers and whirlpool belt drive machines there were many major flaws in the dependable care washer, and they knew it’s time was done so additional improvements were never done.
If you were a laundry engineer, what changes would you make to any of these three designs to have made them run longer?
John
“If you were a laundry engineer, what changes would you make to any of these three designs to have made them run longer”
Good question! Since I’ve taken my Whirlpool apart at least a dozen times since I’ve owned it and made some observations, what I would have changed about the belt drive design is beef up the spin tube assembly, use ball bearings or needle bearings in place of the sleeve bearings, add a front access panel, use some sort of inverter motor (similar to the one Robert put on the one Maytag and GE Filter Flo awhile back) for various degrees of agitation. If you had one of those inverter motors with today’s technology and programming, could have it engage the spin solenoid and have it ‘sense’ the load to determine how much water to use etc. Put a drain plug on the transmission to drain contaminated oil or oil that’s thickened with age. Make the outer tub out of plastic so there’s no issues with rust.
For Maytag, can’t think of much other than beefing it up and making certain things a little more accessible.
For the GE Filter Flo design, maybe design it like a Maytag so it doesn’t have a small inner tub and large outer tub which uses lots of water and the performance isn’t any better as a Whirlpool or Maytag is.
Good question! Since I’ve taken my Whirlpool apart at least a dozen times since I’ve owned it and made some observations, what I would have changed about the belt drive design is beef up the spin tube assembly, use ball bearings or needle bearings in place of the sleeve bearings, add a front access panel, use some sort of inverter motor (similar to the one Robert put on the one Maytag and GE Filter Flo awhile back) for various degrees of agitation. If you had one of those inverter motors with today’s technology and programming, could have it engage the spin solenoid and have it ‘sense’ the load to determine how much water to use etc. Put a drain plug on the transmission to drain contaminated oil or oil that’s thickened with age. Make the outer tub out of plastic so there’s no issues with rust.
For Maytag, can’t think of much other than beefing it up and making certain things a little more accessible.
For the GE Filter Flo design, maybe design it like a Maytag so it doesn’t have a small inner tub and large outer tub which uses lots of water and the performance isn’t any better as a Whirlpool or Maytag is.
I haven't been deep into a BD Whirlpool or GE FF, but with Maytag I would:
Use a bigger upper agitator shaft (1") with larger/better upper bearings in the top transmission housing of the pitman transmission. Enlarge the orifice that feeds oil to the upper bearings during the spin cycle. Engineer a way to funnel water away from the agitator shaft when a leaking stem/boot seal occurs.
Design a way to lubricate the damper pads much easier without disassembly, like a using an external grease zerk fitting for each pad on the damper dome with a channel cut out to evenly distribute grease to the entire pad.
High drain motor pulley as standard equipment.
By 1980, they should have extended the tub down further, shortening the lower transmission stalk/shaft for added tub capacity. Install a larger agitator, slightly larger motor carriage springs to compensate, using the high drain pulley as standard equipment (as stated above) and slightly higher spring rate for the internal brake package spring to compensate for the extra load. I'd also design the lint filter to be longer/deeper so smaller loads would get excellent filtering. A 1.5 minute spray rinse as I have accomplished using a slower timer motor would be nice.
I may come up with a few more.
Use a bigger upper agitator shaft (1") with larger/better upper bearings in the top transmission housing of the pitman transmission. Enlarge the orifice that feeds oil to the upper bearings during the spin cycle. Engineer a way to funnel water away from the agitator shaft when a leaking stem/boot seal occurs.
Design a way to lubricate the damper pads much easier without disassembly, like a using an external grease zerk fitting for each pad on the damper dome with a channel cut out to evenly distribute grease to the entire pad.
High drain motor pulley as standard equipment.
By 1980, they should have extended the tub down further, shortening the lower transmission stalk/shaft for added tub capacity. Install a larger agitator, slightly larger motor carriage springs to compensate, using the high drain pulley as standard equipment (as stated above) and slightly higher spring rate for the internal brake package spring to compensate for the extra load. I'd also design the lint filter to be longer/deeper so smaller loads would get excellent filtering. A 1.5 minute spray rinse as I have accomplished using a slower timer motor would be nice.
I may come up with a few more.
