The buttons
Maytag DE-500 dryer
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Maytag logo
Wire-wound moisture sensor fin
The drum
The number plate. Looks like customers have the option of running it on 110 volts if they have all day ;-).
Summary
Considering it's probably seen a lot of use, this dryer is in remarkably good condition. The area behind the lint filter needs to be taken apart and vacuumed out. The power cord is crumbling and I will replace it before running the dryer (plus I want to use a different plug for it). The front door frame gasket (boot?) is hardened and showing signs of cracking around the edges. It should be replaced but finding a replacement might be a challenge. Overall, it needs cleaning and tuning up, no doubt. The drum turns smoothly, so that's a good sign.
A bit of luck accompanied the transport. When I got it in my courtyard, and opened the door, the upper hinge was loose and missing two screws. Amazingly, I found one of the screws, and the chromed cap nut for it, sitting on the inside ledge of the door. Another chrome cap nut was sitting on the ledge of the cabinet. I measured the screws and figured they were 4-40 x 1/4 flat heads. I was preparing to go to the hardware store and get a replacement screw, but checked the bed of the truck and found the missing one. Oddly, the workshop here has a little box on a shelf filled with almost identical 4-40 cap nuts, except these are painted or plated army green.
Anyway, it's nice when things fall apart unexpectedly you find all the parts.... lol...
Not sure if the top on this thing is porcelain or not. Don't think the cabinet is, but there are no real signs of rust, so it must have been kept in a warm dry environment.
Speaking of which, time to roll it into shelter to continue its priviledged life...
Considering it's probably seen a lot of use, this dryer is in remarkably good condition. The area behind the lint filter needs to be taken apart and vacuumed out. The power cord is crumbling and I will replace it before running the dryer (plus I want to use a different plug for it). The front door frame gasket (boot?) is hardened and showing signs of cracking around the edges. It should be replaced but finding a replacement might be a challenge. Overall, it needs cleaning and tuning up, no doubt. The drum turns smoothly, so that's a good sign.
A bit of luck accompanied the transport. When I got it in my courtyard, and opened the door, the upper hinge was loose and missing two screws. Amazingly, I found one of the screws, and the chromed cap nut for it, sitting on the inside ledge of the door. Another chrome cap nut was sitting on the ledge of the cabinet. I measured the screws and figured they were 4-40 x 1/4 flat heads. I was preparing to go to the hardware store and get a replacement screw, but checked the bed of the truck and found the missing one. Oddly, the workshop here has a little box on a shelf filled with almost identical 4-40 cap nuts, except these are painted or plated army green.
Anyway, it's nice when things fall apart unexpectedly you find all the parts.... lol...
Not sure if the top on this thing is porcelain or not. Don't think the cabinet is, but there are no real signs of rust, so it must have been kept in a warm dry environment.
Speaking of which, time to roll it into shelter to continue its priviledged life...
Rich, I'm glad things worked out for you!! It's a very nice dryer and when the electronic control works properly it's very accurate.
DE-500 Dimensions
DE-500 Dimensions
31.5" wide
27" deep
37" high (not including console)
I knew this thing was bigger than average!
DE-500 Dimensions
31.5" wide
27" deep
37" high (not including console)
I knew this thing was bigger than average!
polkanut
Well-known member
As our dear Toggleswitch would say, size does matter!
Yes but, Togs was claiming this dryer was only 28.5" inches wide... or was he?
Just remember: Objects in the mirror may appear to be smaller than they really are.
Just remember: Objects in the mirror may appear to be smaller than they really are.
1700 Watts
On 120v isn't bad, if one pairs the dryer with either an extractor or high speed final spin. My portable Whirlpool uses 1500W, and will take about 45mins to dry a load of thick and thirsty bath towels that have been spun at 1100 in the Miele.
Do not think code restrictions today would allow pulling 1700watts from a 15amp or even 20 amp circut.
L.
On 120v isn't bad, if one pairs the dryer with either an extractor or high speed final spin. My portable Whirlpool uses 1500W, and will take about 45mins to dry a load of thick and thirsty bath towels that have been spun at 1100 in the Miele.
Do not think code restrictions today would allow pulling 1700watts from a 15amp or even 20 amp circut.
L.
The number plate doesn't say, but I'd be willing to bet that the 1700 watts connection is for 20 amp 110 volt circuits only.
1700/110=15.45 amps. This is within the 20% margin of error normally allotted to such circuits. In other words, on a 20 amp circuit, 16 amps maximum would be allowed.
On a 15 amp circuit, 12 amps or 1320 watts would be the 80%maximum for any single appliance. Some appliances may say they draw 1500 watts but that is usually an overstatement or the maximum on startup - a temporary draw. For example, I just bought a small all-metal "utility heater" for sticking under my desk at the shop. The tag says it's 1500 watts. But I stuck it on a watt meter on high and it draws just a little over 1300 watts.
This is probably also why 110 volt American front loaders' heating elements are generally limited to 1000 watts - any more would mean that the motor would not be allowed to come on during heating (as is or was the case with the heated Speed Queen front loader) because that would cause the appliance to exceed the 80% safety figure.
1700/110=15.45 amps. This is within the 20% margin of error normally allotted to such circuits. In other words, on a 20 amp circuit, 16 amps maximum would be allowed.
On a 15 amp circuit, 12 amps or 1320 watts would be the 80%maximum for any single appliance. Some appliances may say they draw 1500 watts but that is usually an overstatement or the maximum on startup - a temporary draw. For example, I just bought a small all-metal "utility heater" for sticking under my desk at the shop. The tag says it's 1500 watts. But I stuck it on a watt meter on high and it draws just a little over 1300 watts.
This is probably also why 110 volt American front loaders' heating elements are generally limited to 1000 watts - any more would mean that the motor would not be allowed to come on during heating (as is or was the case with the heated Speed Queen front loader) because that would cause the appliance to exceed the 80% safety figure.
mrcleanjeans
New member
the cut-off date
How does one cancel the cycle if you change your mind?
How does one cancel the cycle if you change your mind?
How does one cancel the cycle if you change your mind?
I wondered the same thing. Until I rewire the power cable, my guess is that one can just open the door to stop the cycle, and then select another button. Or, perhaps, one can just select a different button for a different dryness level.
There are only four selections: Regular, Wash 'n Wear, Damp Dry, and Air Fluff. Probably all most people need anyway.
I suspect there is an internal adjustment for just how dry the load will be before the machine stops the drying cycle. I'll find out when I tear the thing apart for cleaning. There's a monetary incentive so to do: I can hear coins rattling around the base when I tip the machine, lol.
I wondered the same thing. Until I rewire the power cable, my guess is that one can just open the door to stop the cycle, and then select another button. Or, perhaps, one can just select a different button for a different dryness level.
There are only four selections: Regular, Wash 'n Wear, Damp Dry, and Air Fluff. Probably all most people need anyway.
I suspect there is an internal adjustment for just how dry the load will be before the machine stops the drying cycle. I'll find out when I tear the thing apart for cleaning. There's a monetary incentive so to do: I can hear coins rattling around the base when I tip the machine, lol.
Congrats on the new dryer. It is a beast of a thing and you'll be shocked at how much wasted space there is inside the cabinet - the drum could have easily been two inches or more larger!
With the electronic control Maytags, it's dry or damp. No adjustments. There was an additional resistor available as a service "correction" for those who complained about wet seams of denims, etc. that merely extended the "over-run" with heat after the electronic control sensed that the load was dry. I think this came later though, my DE906 had this added.
With the electronic control Maytags, it's dry or damp. No adjustments. There was an additional resistor available as a service "correction" for those who complained about wet seams of denims, etc. that merely extended the "over-run" with heat after the electronic control sensed that the load was dry. I think this came later though, my DE906 had this added.
Yup, open the door to cancel the cycle. I've noticed Maytag dryers are usually good for about a dollar or so in change!
kennyGF
kennyGF
Greg,
Thanks for the info. In this dryer, would I be correct in assuming that the heat enters via the slots in the fins, and exits via the lint filter at the rear of the drum? If so, this might help explain why the cabinet is so much bigger than the external drum - there would have to be another enclosure around the inner drum to contain the hot air (ergo, "Halo of Heat"). Still, it does seem to be rather porky, lol. Just from what I can see from looking in the rear vent hole, there's a lot of real estate in there.
The thing also is not light. It's got thick sheet metal and a lot of it. Much heavier than my Neptune 7500 dryer, or an earlier gas WCI number. Still, the solid base allowed me to rest it on a furniture dolly, so I can roll it around the shop as needed to make way for other projects.
Thanks for the info. In this dryer, would I be correct in assuming that the heat enters via the slots in the fins, and exits via the lint filter at the rear of the drum? If so, this might help explain why the cabinet is so much bigger than the external drum - there would have to be another enclosure around the inner drum to contain the hot air (ergo, "Halo of Heat"). Still, it does seem to be rather porky, lol. Just from what I can see from looking in the rear vent hole, there's a lot of real estate in there.
The thing also is not light. It's got thick sheet metal and a lot of it. Much heavier than my Neptune 7500 dryer, or an earlier gas WCI number. Still, the solid base allowed me to rest it on a furniture dolly, so I can roll it around the shop as needed to make way for other projects.
Actually, the element is around the front of the drum. Heat enters through the small holes around the door opening. The wire-wrapped baffles in the drum are the moisture sensors. These are connected to wires and a carbon brush at the back of the drum which rides on a "slip ring" connected to the electronic control unit.
Dryness level
I know later Electronic Control dryers D806 & D906 said to use the W'n'W button for heavier loads or loads which needed a higher degree of dryness instead of the regular fabrics button. Incidentally, the dryer just has two heat levels--heat and air. Aside from degree of dryness, the W'n'W button also had a longer cooldown. On regular, I believe once the dry level was met and the button popped out, the dryer shut off. Same with Damp Dry. Air fluff I believe was either a 10 or 15 minute cycle.
I know later Electronic Control dryers D806 & D906 said to use the W'n'W button for heavier loads or loads which needed a higher degree of dryness instead of the regular fabrics button. Incidentally, the dryer just has two heat levels--heat and air. Aside from degree of dryness, the W'n'W button also had a longer cooldown. On regular, I believe once the dry level was met and the button popped out, the dryer shut off. Same with Damp Dry. Air fluff I believe was either a 10 or 15 minute cycle.
Greg,
Thanks for the drawing. Very nice. Do you have more on the innards of this dryer?
I knew that the copper coils are for moisture sensing. I guess I got the idea from my first look at the machine that there were slots next to the coils as well. It's not easy to tell ... pretty dark inside that drum, and the door opening is almost Euro sized.
The fact that the heated air entered just behind the door would account for the somewhat baked state of the door gasket. Any idea where I could get a replacement?
Bob,
Interesting that the Wash 'n Wear button got things drier than the Normal button. Since all my stuff is basically wash and wear (I haven't ironed anything in long time), that's the one I'd use if I used this dryer on a regular basis.
Thanks for the drawing. Very nice. Do you have more on the innards of this dryer?
I knew that the copper coils are for moisture sensing. I guess I got the idea from my first look at the machine that there were slots next to the coils as well. It's not easy to tell ... pretty dark inside that drum, and the door opening is almost Euro sized.
The fact that the heated air entered just behind the door would account for the somewhat baked state of the door gasket. Any idea where I could get a replacement?
Bob,
Interesting that the Wash 'n Wear button got things drier than the Normal button. Since all my stuff is basically wash and wear (I haven't ironed anything in long time), that's the one I'd use if I used this dryer on a regular basis.
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