I know it's late and you're probably not up anymore but a warning on those plastic brush holders that are screwed to that drum with that bolt. It's usually best to leave them there. They have a tendency to break. Just take a little screwdriver, loosen the screw on top of the copper plate with the wire, hold your finger over the hole where the spring and wire are, move the copper plate until the spring starts to pop out and be ready to grab it. It's so tiny and will fly away and you'll never find it. Then you can polish up the copper plate and put it back together.
I know the service techs get tired of hearing me talk about all the little OCD things I do when working on these machines and that no one has time to do that in the field, but it's fun to me to make it all look new again.
While the brush is out you can get some good metal polish out (like Flitz or Mothers Mag and shine up that copper band, get a small paint brush, compressed air and blow and brush the lint off that felt under the copper band. Just don't get it wet. It will ground it out to the housing and it won't work anymore.
I'm sure you've already pulled the drum, cleaned the blower, shaft, spider, wick and all that stuff. That's a must. When you put the cabinet back on, be sure to have it on a sturdy level floor, probably take the rubber feet off, oil the legs, level the machine up all the way around, hook up door switch and route wires, put in side screws and start to check for cabinet alignment. With and w/o the back on. Sometimes pulling on the cabinet corners while watching screw hole alignment on back cover and checking to see if the front hole opening is even all the way around will make things go better in the end. The hole alignment on the front of mine is pretty good and I can see small fibers from the front seal sticking out from around the perimeter where the hole in the cabinet meets the drum. If you want to protect your cabinet bottom, you can lay down and old quilt or blanket so the bottom won't get scratched. There goes my OCD again. Used to be called perfectionist.
I wouldn't change the drum centering unless I had to. Usually cabinet alignment can fix that problem. Then manual says: 1. With the dryer level and the back panel on, checkto see where the drum is hitting or is too close to the shroud. 2. Remove back panel. 3. Slightly loosen three bolts holding the housing to the housing supports. 4. Move drum in proper directon to corect misalignment. Center drum so the space on each side is equal and the drum is slightly closer to the shroud on the bottom than on the top. 5. Retighten three bolts holding housing. 6. Reinstall back panel. 7. Recheck drum centering. If further adjustment is necessary, repeat above steps. Ugh. Wouldn't want to do it, but would if had to. Cabinet alignment and leveling is so much easier. If that didn't work, then I might consider housing centering.
In photo 2: There's your cool down stat.
Once I messed up one of those little brushes some how; broke it I think. So I went to Ace hardware, got the smallest brush I could find with no wire embedded in it, a short strip of black emery paper and went to work. Laid the emery paper down on a flat surface, laid the brush on it, slid it back and forth a few times while checking often to see if it would fit in the holder. Once I got the outside dimensions right, I checked it for proper length so the spring would fit down inside. Then I reassembled it. Worked perfect. Have to check often. The carbon files off quickly and makes a terrible mess. Be ready for that if you ever have to do it. You can take a damp towel and clean up all the black.
Photo 3. Yeah. Those old parts can be cleaned up and used again as long as they aren't broken.
If you really want to get into it, you can order the Maytag Halo-o-Heat dryer service manual off of Automatic Ephemera.
Looking forward to seeing and hearing more. Let us know how you're getting along.
