Maytag Dependable Care Electric Dryer Help

[stevet]

We have a Maytag Dependable Care Plus Dryer, Model LDE9606ACE
Serial number 1068765404. Supposedly built c.1997.
I think the dryer is much better than the Kenmore it replaced as it dries the clothes much faster that the Kenmore did.
However, I believe the reason for it is that it dries everything at much too high a temperature regardless of the temp setting.
So today I finally put the pyrometer probe inside the lint filter compartment(front mounted) and ran it empty on all three temperature settings,delicate medium and high and on Itellidry Easy/PermanentPress Care, timed dry and Intellidry Regular. It seems that the unit will cycle between a hi temp of 192-205 and then cool down to 112-115 and go back up to the higher numbers just mentioned.It made no difference which cycle was selected.
Now I know that the unit is empty but my Kenmore empty never exceeded 160 on high.And the other temp settings were correspondingly lower.
With a full load of whites in it today, it hovered between 110 and 116 at the beginning of the cycle but I know that once the clothes get dryer, the temp starts creeping up and sometimes the clothes are too hot to touch just prior to the cool down phase and still hot to warm after the cool down.Needless to say, we have been seeing alot of shrinking going on.

Does anyone have any specs on what the temps should be? Or what the ratings on the tstats are? Is it possible that all of the control tstats are stuck closed and the unit is cutting out on the hi limit? How about a wiring diagram?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[qsd-dan]

It sounds like you're cycling off of the high limit thermostat instead of the regular cycling thermostat. Not uncommon when the cylcing thermostat fails. I'll check the microfiche slides and see if it gives me temp ratings.

 

[coldspot66]

Hi Steve,

Eddie has told me about your problem. How is the venting? Make sure it is clean and as tight as possible, no sagging or crushed hose anywhere. It does sound like it is cycling on the hi-limit thermo; that can be caused by poor venting as well. If the cycling thermo was not cutting off the heat, or stuck closed, the blower housing thermal fuse would open and stop operation of the dryer, as it trips at a higher temp than the operating thermo. Also check for grounded heater elements to the outer case. Email me, if you like, we can talk more.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Look at the cycling tstat (on the blower housing) and it will tell you the temp rating of it. For example it might say L160-20 which would mean it's a 160F stat with a cycle of 20 deg. above and below that. Of course it may also have a built in bias heater to lower the temp as needed. I've always taken temp readings at the exhaust output as you get more realistic temp cycling readings then in the drum or even in the filter duct housing. Your schematics SHOULD BE in the console. Pull 5 screws and it's supposed to be taped to the cover up by the timer. I THINK it will show temp ratings as well...

RCD

 

[stevet]

Thanks!

RCD, thanks for the info. I know about the readings on the thermostats but haven't taken the unit apart. I will look for the paperwork as well. It is a good machine and the price was definitely right so even if I have to throw a few bucks into it I will do so. What had me peeved was how the temperature never changed regardless of what I had it set for. I understand your comment about the exhaust temp readings, but the clothes are seeing all that heat in the drum and the clothes are shrinking. This will be a good project to get into so I will keep you informed.

 

[neptunebob]

I thought that the Halo From Hell models overheated, I didn't think the newer ones did.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Another thought...

Check the element. It could be grounded to chassis and just heat like the dickens, ignoring the stat... I've seen that before. Either element sag from being overheated by a bad vent system or something as different as a bra underwire that poked it's way thru the heatduct grill and fell back into the element assy. Yes, I know that that sounds wierd, I've seen it. It's also fun to find things like ammunition down by the element/gas burner. Talk about an end of cycle signal!

RCD

 

[qsd-dan]

I never had an overheating issue with any my Halo's whether they're underloaded or severely overloaded. The Permanent Press cycle does get everything a little too dry, but the Regular cycle is dead on.

 

[stevet]

Lots to look for!

Give me a good old gas dryer and I will be happy. I have my work cut out for me this weekend. Keep the suggestions coming.
I like the shorted element theory. Not so strange. Seen it happen on electric fryers too!
Thanks guys.
Steve

 

[qsd-dan]

Give me a good old gas dryer and I will be happy.

I used to express the same exact quote for many years, but you'll soon find out that gas dryers have their own set of problems. Failing gas coils, radiant sensors, ignitors, burner mixture issues, ect. Six of one, half a dozen of the other........

 

[awooff]

lmfao, this is the funniest thread ever!

 

[pturo]

The Halo from Hell DG906 is actually a good machine. Dead nuts on for Regular and Damp Dry. Perm Press seems to run hot, but it is supposed to, the theory was that synthetic fibers need to be hot, then cooled down longer, to avoid wrinkles.

My Halo from Hell dries faster than any machine I have ever had, but it does get a bad reputation from the electric models whose elements shorted out easily from coins and etc, falling on the element in the front. Thankfully, I have the gas model.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Philip, Yours has it's own set of issues. Electrics short out and the gas models are the ones where I've found live ammo (from people's unchecked pockets) down near the burner. It's always funny to see the look on the housefrau's face right after I show it to her but just before she goes to crucify whomever it belonged to...

RCD

 

[stevet]

all evidence points to..

The temperature switch. I have receieved info from Coldpsot and have also asked a number of other repairmen who are familiar with Maytag dryers, and they all seem to agree on the switch being the culprit. They all feel that the resistor in the circuit for the heat is bad or the switch itself is gone.
I am ordering one in a few minutes and hope to have a better running dryer in a few days. Meantime, short drying periods and manual cooldown!
Thanks for the help.
Steve