Maytag DG806 modification

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kenmore71

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In the continuing "tweeking" of my restored 1967 Maytag DG806, I made an addition to the control panel that I thought some might find amusing. Since this machine is in a basement laundry room, I don't always hear the end-of-cycle chime that signals the shutting off of the gas valve circuit and the subsequent "cool-down" phase. When I come down to the laundry room at about the time when I think things should be dry and the dryer is still running I don't know if it's still drying or actually "cooling down". So, I decided to install an indicator light connected in parallel with the gas valve circuit wired in before the cycling stat. I used a standard C7 christmas bulb and installed it behind the little blue flame on the indicator panel. Here's what it looks like when it's "drying":

kenmore71++8-17-2011-08-55-38.jpg
 
Electronic control update

After posting this thread, a few folks have asked how my "adventures" with the electronic control on this dryer have been going. After nearly 3 months of experimentation and tweeking, I think I have finally achieved HOH electronic dryness control "nirvana".

My goal was relatively consistent "nearly dry" clothes on the "Regular" setting. What I mean by this is that there may still be the slightest bit of dampness in the seams of jeans, in the heaviest part of towels and the elastic bands of heavy socks and underwear. On the Wash-n-wear setting these items are either completely or nearly completely dry.

What ultimately worked was using the original electronic control with a new Dayton PMPC-6.8 6.8uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor with one of the drum wire baffles disconnected. I bought a set of 4 of these capacitors with the following ratings: 4uF, 5.6uF, 6.8uF, & 8.2uF. I dried various loads using all of them and the machine was still consistently overdrying with the exception of the 4 uF. The problem with this one was that the Air Fluff time had dropped to about 4 minutes.

The next step I took was to remove one of the drum baffles from the sensing circuit and start a new round of experiments. According to John (Combo52) this was one of the tried and true "field methods" for dealing with this problem. It seemed to do the trick. With the 4 uF the load was only damp dry on "Regular" and with the 8.2 uF it was nearly completely dry. So, I tried the 6.8 uF and that seems to be about perfect. The "Air Fluff" is still a bit on the shy side of the factory spec of 9-12 minutes. (Right now it's around 8-1/2). I can live with that.

There seems to be a good deal of mystery surrounding what rating of capacitor Maytag originally speced on the wire-baffle HOH (pre-1968) dryers. The writing on the old capacitor made no sense to myself or to a handful of electronics people to whom I showed to to. There seems to be general consensus that the bar-baffle HOH dryers (1968 and later) originally had an 8 uF capacitor on them. That, however, was often increased by the addition of a 1 or 2 uF capacitor in parallel if the customer complained that the dryer was under-drying.

I thought I'd post this info here for anyone who is looking for info on these electronic controls. They are a marvelously simple and effective example of "Space Age" technology applied to home use.
 
Mark, that is a brilliant idea. It looks awesome! Thanks for sharing the information on the capacitors.
 
I once had a Kenmore that had a little light come on when in the "cool down" phase....

but this is a million times better....something Maytag should have done all along........pure genious......I also like that they have the little flame to designate a gas burner....

almost like the "moisture minder" light on some of the Maytag dryers, that would flash as the damp clothes went across the electronic sensors.....

this definately should get the "Idea of the Year" award!
 
What would be so hard about it?

Mark has proven it can be done......

and its fantastic.....

I love what all the members are doing with lights on these machines....keep the ideas coming
 
This is a old thread...

But I am thinking of doing something similar to the Maytag DG606 I converted to a DG306 by using the neon pilot indicator light to indicate when the burner is on or off and it will go off when the burner cycles off.
 
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