Maytag E2L restoration

[bobl]

Hello again all...I've been looking at my recently purchased E2L and decided to try and make it look presentable. One big issue is the tub lid. It looks like someone in the past laid a chemically soaked rag on it and the aluminum lid was badly pitted. It's not something that could just be sanded out. I've done some on line searching but can't find anyone selling just a lid for this machine. I would also need the 2 decals that are on it. Any ideas as to who might sell these parts? Thanks for any suggestions. You've all been very helpful.

 

[bigterkc]

Parts and decals

I'm hoping someday to snag me a nice Maytag wringer like this. I've heard them mention on here about Phil in NY that sells parts for the Maytag Wringers, you might look up on Ebay for his online store.
This webpage might be of help for the emblems.
http://www.maytagclub.com/page-3.htm
Good luck, and post progress pictures!
Terry

 

[stan]

Bob

You have to tell us about the car in the background.. Can't see it very well, is it a 50 Buick? What's the story?
Since your into old cars.. You may be able to get a body shop to do a repaint on the Maytag.
Decals are available. Let us know if you have trouble with the Maytag Club not having

Im no pro, so this is just a suggestion ..Think you'll have a lot of wet sanding! Start with a course enough grit to remove as much rust and pitting as possible. Wash down, then try some scratch filling primer, then.. more wet sanding..say with 600-800 grit, wash down, then maybe try the appliance paint. I've never used it but others here have. You may be able to wet sand between coats.
While I've done something similar (years ago) on my old Maytag, I was using a oil based enamel. The appliance Apoxxi may be better?
Best I can think of for smoothest finish.

 

[bobl]

Maytag E2L restoration

Thanks Terry and Stan for the input. Yes, that is a 1950 Buick Special in the background. I've had it since 1980 and have had a lot of fun restoring it. I contacted Phil in NY and he said he didn't have any extra lids for this machine. The decals I need weren't listed on that other site. I'll do a little more searching for those. I have some body work experience and can probably repair the old lid with some type of body filler. I was hoping a new lid would be available though. There was a Maytag dealer in town 25 years ago who had at least 30 old wringer washers laying in a boneyard behind their store. They're long gone but I just assumed somebody somewhere might have a similar treasure trove of parts like that. Thanks again. -Bob

 

[stan]

Keep us

posted with your progress, and your repaint, since you have auto body experience.. I'd be interested seeng pics of how it should be done by a pro! As mentioned.. I did mine with oil based enamel, sanded and used fine cut cleaner between coats.
(I was able to fill in some scratches and pitting with just the paint) Finishing with fine cut and waxing. I know there has to be a better way to do this then what I did.

 

[bobl]

Maytag E2L restoration

Thanks Stan...I'm certainly no pro but I know just enough to get into trouble . By the way, good eye on knowing that was a 1950 Buick. The 3 holes on the hood were obvious but there is just a hint of those huge grille teeth showing in that picture. I was reading a comment from someone that used your method of painting the lower half of the machine by hand instead of spray cans. Any benefit to that? I have a small spray booth so rattle cans would be my first choice for doing the entire machine. I'm still having no luck locating the 3 decals I need for the project. I'll take some close ups with measurements and post them soon. As I mentioned, I will be using a body filler to repair the tub lid but the top side of the tub is also slightly damaged from whatever messed up the lid.I'll do my best to polish the aluminum but it won't be perfect when finished because of that pitting. I'd like to have everything needed before starting this project. Thanks again. -Bob

 

[bobl]

Maytag E2L restoration

I have some better pictures of the 3 decals I need. The gray (or at least it's gray now) Maytag decal measures 4 5/8" x 1 1/4". The turquoise gyratator decal measures 2 3/4" x 1 7/8". The wringer decal measures 2 1/4" x 1". I've seen a lot of Maytag decals on various sites but these aren't listed. Any ideas? Thanks again guys for any info. Also...where would I look for the serial number on this machine?

 

[e2l-arry]

Hi Bob

There's a guy I used a few years ago to but replacement decals. As soon as I can find his contact info I'll pass it on. One of the ones I bought was the warning label on the wringer.

As for painting, I did use the spray appliance white enamel. I had to paint it outside or I'd have suffocated to death! But it worked well and if you already have the booth it's the best way to go in my opinion.

 

[e2l-arry]

Found them

I got my decals off Ebay. Go to the Ebay website and type in MAYTAG DECALS. There're all there!

Good Luck.

Larry

 

[bobl]

Maytag E2L restoration

Thanks a million. I appreciate that. I resorted an old gas pump about a year ago and build a small spray booth. You're right. You couldn't do it without a ventilated booth and a respirator. That stuff is nasty and overspray travels a long way. This was the end result. It was a rusted hulk loaded with dents. Also, I just answered my own question about the serial number. Found it stamped on the back of the tub amongst the rust. Didn't see it earlier. Thanks again. -Bob

 

[stan]

Hi Bob

Don't know if there's any benefit to how I painted mine.. but it has held up really well. I'd trust Larry on that since he's used the appliance paint.
The serial number should be stamped into the back of your machine (opposite sid as ur pull nob) near the edge of the aluminum crown. This is how you can find your machines birthdate.
I was able to guess it was a 50 Buick.. I have a 50 Plymouth
Dose the Buick have a straight 6 or straight 8?
Here's a couple if shots of the Plymouth (she has some issues)

 

[bobl]

Maytag E2L restoration

Hi Stan...nice looking Plymouth. I like seeing cars that are kept as original as possible. Not too many like that at most car shows these days. Straight 8 in mine. She has issues too. Leaky trans...running rough...might be valves...hope not...$$$. Buick thought the articulating hood was a cool feature back then. Not a handy thing when you're adjusting the carb on one side then fiddling with the timing on the other. Easiest to remove the hood completely. Larry...I tried the search on eBay and still came up empty. Lot of decals but not the ones I need. I'll keep searching. The serial number I found looks like 29741 FS. From what I read it might have been made in 1968? I thought it was older...early 50's? Dunno. Thanks again guys. -Bob

 

[e2l-arry]

An old time Standard Oil gas pump! I vaguely remember those pumps before they went to the more modern squared off pumps.

I sent you an email with the page for the wringer sticker. They had the blue model sticker but they were for the N2L or J2L's. Not that anyone but an expert could tell it's not the correct model decal.

There's also a guy named Dave Harnish, email [email protected] that may be able to help with a replacement lid. He sometimes has salvage/parts machines in his barn. I bought a replacement aluminum tub from him a few years ago. And for polishing up the tub, I found nothing works like Mother's Mag and Wheel polish. They sell it at Auto Part Stores and it really does the trick! I added a picture of the one I got from Dave after cleaning it up.

Larry

 

[bobl]

Maytag E2L restoration

Hello again...I started painting a few things including the wringer. I used a good 3M masking tape to cover the push bar. Removed the tape carefully and found some of the turquoise paint came off with the tape. Anyone know if there is a touch up paint to match this? I really want a small bottle of liquid...not a spray can. Also I'm not happy with the finish I'm getting with the Rustoleum Epoxy Appliance paint. Pretty rough. More "bumpy" than orange peely. I primed with Rustoleum sandable primer, wet sanded the primer then gave it 7 coats of the epoxy. Is the rough finish expected or did something go horribly wrong? I was careful to maintain a 12" distance with the can while spraying. Painting conditions were definitely less than ideal. 85 degrees in the shop...high humidity. I can wait a week or so and wet sand and polish but I really didn't want to have to do that. Maybe I'm expecting an automotive finish when I shouldn't be? It still looks better than the rusty mess I started with. Ideas? Thoughts? Thanks again. -Bob

 

[vacerator]

A white

Pontiac Grand Prix of either 1974, 5, or '76 vintage is parked behind your Plymouth in the picture.

 

[bradross]

Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy paint ...

Hey Bob,

I used that paint very successfully on my 1948 Kenmore wringer washer's lid, skirt, and drain boards. It came out very smooth, however, I did not use a primer, as the instructions on the can state "Priming is not recommended." Wonder if that has anything to do with your result of a bumpy finish.

 

[stan]

Bob

Wish I some experience with the appliance epoxy..
I can't imagine priming it made it bumpy, especially since you wet sanded the primer afterwards? Wonder if you could use a fine cut cleaner then polish instead of having to wet sand again? Let us know if you find a touch up paint for the release bar that matches. Mine is the red one, and I used plastic paint on it.
Your machine looks good..might leave well enough alone, but I'll be interested to know if and how you smooth out the finish!

@ Mike. Yes it a 76 G.P 400.000 miles and still drives like new. Hope I didn't jinx it by saying that!

 

[bobl]

Maytag E2L restoration

Thanks for the input guys. With the amount of rust I'll be removing on this machine I couldn't imagine painting it without priming. As I said I wet sanded the primer and had it smooth as a baby's butt. We'll see how the bottom half turns out. I might just go with the orange peel results. Could be the weather conditions causing issues. Seems like I always pick the coldest or hottest times of the year to start a project like this. The top of the tub is so badly pitted there's just no way this will be a "showpiece" so I guess I should stop sweating the small stuff. Just felt stupid when the turquoise paint came off with the tape. Contacted Phil about touch up paint...no luck. He does have a brand new part for it but I really don't want to spend that much when I only need 25 cents worth of paint. Was staring at it and it dawned on me that the old Buick engine enamel is very similar in color. Might look into that since I have some of that paint left over. Wow Stan...400k on the Grand Prix? That's almost unheard of for that era. Buddy of mine had a '77...black with red crushed velour interior. Very sharp. I had a '75 Monte Carlo at the time. Pretty much the same size and shape. I remember while waxing, it was like a Corvette....75 percent of the car was that long hood! Well, back to work. Thanks again. -Bob

 

[panthera]

A few thoughts on 'good enough'

1) I've used the Rustoleum spray appliance enamel quite a bit over the years and the only times I've had bumps were under high humidity/high temp conditions. It's not normal. Quality won't be automotive, but should be very good.

2) For what it's worth, when visiting a cousin's shop in the US back in the early 60's, I saw many many Maytags lined up next to each other. There were minor variations in the blue spectrum in them, although they were fresh and new from the factory. So - don't sweat the exact color thingy. If they didn't come that way from Newton originally, I see no reason to worry about it today.

3) It's not cheap, but I have had very good long-term results using J-B Weld 8265S as filler on aluminium and mixed substrates in wet environments. I know it's a bit of overkill, but it seems to balance out my lack of skills very well.

4) There are a lot of these Maytags still in use (many Amish in our area) so I would guess with a bit of patience, you'll find the parts.

5) From experience, I'd make sure the transmission oil is well protected before any major work, whether sanding or painting or using solvents.

 

Personally, anyone who can make a '50 Buick Special look that good can make a Maytag look great.

 

Oh, and as daily drivers, these are wonderful washers. For whatever reason, that tub/agitator design just plain cleans.