Maytag Epic Z

[sudsmaster]

Saw something different and new (to me, at least) at Home Depot this morning.

A Maytag Epic Z washer, with non-tilted horizontal drum. After fending off the no-nothing salesman (he tried to tell me it was a dryer), I figured that this was probably the Maytag badged version of the Duet Sport HT. At $899, not a bad deal, probably equivalent to the high end Affinity washers in capacity and performance.

Not a bad looking machine, and it's nice to see more machines with internal heaters being offered at the box stores.

 

[foraloysius]

The new models are on the Maytag website.

http://www.maytag.com/catalog/category.jsp?cat=18

 

[funguy10]

Is this the machine you saw. The site lists it as being $849.00

http://www.maytag.com/catalog/product.jsp?src=Washers&cat=18&prod=1602

 

[sudsmaster]

Yes, Louis, the $849 model MHWZ600TW looks to be the one I saw at the Depot this morning. I know I saw the "Sanitary" setting on the dial, so it's the one with the internal heater (which teh $799 model doesn't have... silly to save $50 and not get an internal heater).

The one I saw was white.

 

[vivalalavatrice]

and it's nice to see more machines with internal heaters

...the tragedy to be continued IMHO...I don't want to figure out what about your next electric bills...HOT AND COLD FILL IS BETTER THAN COLD FILL ONLY! You could heat your water so with an alternative source energy like gas if you had a gas water heater or solar board plants...

 

[sudsmaster]

Diomede,

Not to worry. These are 110 volt machines, and designed to take both hot and cold fill. So the internal heater is primarily to maintain water temp, or maybe boost it 20 degrees F. The one on my Neptune 7500 takes about 1 minute per degree F. But the Neptune probably uses about 50% more wash water than these later machines, so they might be quicker heating.

I did a fair amount of testing/cleaning of the 200F Miele W1065 last month... and my electric bill reflected that. But, then, the workshop has these 500 watt flourescent light banks... so they probably added to the consumption. Turning on all five banks in the workshop uses 2.5 kW!. Like running an electric oven. But it's about as bright as daylight when all are turned on (I usually only turn them all on to impress guests). Most of the time I use floor or desk lamps in there... enough to get by without going into debt to the electric company.

 

[launderess]

I Feel Your Pain

Keep on using that 200F cycle on the Miele 1065, your electric company is planning a major plant expansion on it! *LOL*

Now you know why I stick to using temps in the 100F to 140F range; and usually 120F. Using those boil wash temperatures is like opening my purse to the local power company. It is worse during the summer months when rates go up for seasonal demand.

When I do use uber-hot wash temps, most never start from cold or even warm water; rather use a cool or warm pre-wash then fill with hot water and take things from there.

Read some where that using boil washes often, is actually hard on the washing machine. IIRC, something to do with the heaters or some such. Think it was on WasherhelpUK.

L.

 

[funguy10]

By the way, has that "no-nothing" salesman EVER seen and/or heard of a Front-Loading washer?! Yheesh. Just because they look like dryers doesn't mean they are. I mean come on. Even I can distinguish a Front-Loading washer from its matching dryer just by looking at them.

 

[sudsmaster]

Well, I'm not currently using the W1065 any more, anyway. I use the 1918 to do whites at 160 F about once a week, with cold water fill only (no water heater in the workshop where the washer lives). The rest of the laundry goes into the Neptune in the main house (which has both hot and cold water on tap).

The 200F boil washes were part of my attempt to clear residual sudsing from the W1065. The intermittant rumbling coming from the machine while it tumbles convinced me that it needs to be torn down for an inspection/rebuild before it gets any worse. I suspect at this point it might be a failing bearing, in which case I may get to find out just how easy it is (or isn't) to replace the replaceable bearings on the Miele. On the other hand, it does high speed spins without incident so maybe it's not the bearing, but something isn't right. In the meantime, the 1918 works just fine.

 

[launderess]

Sorry to hear your 1065 is still acting up. Will agree that if the spin is fine, bearings might not be the trouble. Do know that when I put the question to both Miele customer service, and the nice young Miele repair lad, both said the same thing; if it comes down to replacing the bearings one might just be better off chucking the machine. FWIU bearing replacement entails taking the machine some what apart and using a type of wench to lift the tubs and such out of the machine. Considering all that cast iron weight, sort of makes sense.

As for the rumbling while tumbling, could it be the belts? Or, perhaps something is simply out of place?

L.

 

[sudsmaster]

Well, one of the selling points of Miele has been that the bearings are replaceable, vs. the cast-in bearings of plastic tub machines like the Frigmore or Neptune. So I'm a bit surprised at the "junk, don't replace" advice.

Nevertheless, the machine is located in a rather large workshop area, and I have the equipment (engine hoist) that is more than capable of lifting the drum/weight assembly out of a Miele. The main problem is time and detailed knowledge about what not to do ;-).

Opening up the Miele and doing an inspection is on my list. If I pull the top I should be able to see if the belt is worn. If I pull the bottom panel/tray, that should give me access to the motor (I think).

The rumbling is intermittant. It will start up midway through a tumbling sequence, then go away with the next sequence. It can also start with the spin, but seems to go away then also. As I think I've mentioned here before, I thought perhaps it sounds like a bad belt tensioner. But when I popped the top on the 1918, I didn't see a belt tensioner, so I'm assuming there isn't one on the 1065 either. So at this point the source of the noise is a mystery.

The previous owners said they had the shock absorbers replaced at one point. They complained about the expense: $300 for parts and labor. Perhaps something is out of alignment as a result of that work?

 

[sudsman]

The new Maytag

Is a 24 lb machine.. very nice size

 

[launderess]

Yes, the suggestion was to replace the machine, but only because the cost and expense of bearing replacement would likely equal if not come close to a new unit. Again, the repair job is not one that can be done in a customer's home, well not according to Miele, so one has to figure some pretty steep labour, back and froth transport, parts, and other costs. Miele did say they do offer bearing replacement at no charge, but only for washing machines under warranty. Of course if one has all the equipment and know-how, one could do the repair oneself, assuming Miele would supply all parts required.

IIRC, another member had a 1065 unit, that he let go because it needed a new motor.