e2l-arry
Well-known member
I beg to differ!
I believe Geoff has one with a timer. Very rare but they did make them.
I believe Geoff has one with a timer. Very rare but they did make them.
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L
- Thread starter valtone1
- Start date
Help Support :
I have
an instruction book that does have a diagram of a timer on the machine. I have never seen one of these nor has the Amish ever seen one and they have hundreds of them. If Geoff has one maybe he will tell us about it. If I remember correctly it is down towards one of the legs. I will have to dig out my manuals and see about this. This is a good question for all of us Maytag Wringer fans. Thanks for asking !! Geoff?
Best! Jim
an instruction book that does have a diagram of a timer on the machine. I have never seen one of these nor has the Amish ever seen one and they have hundreds of them. If Geoff has one maybe he will tell us about it. If I remember correctly it is down towards one of the legs. I will have to dig out my manuals and see about this. This is a good question for all of us Maytag Wringer fans. Thanks for asking !! Geoff?
Best! Jim
That I have
to see! and know more about!
Geoff show us this!
to see! and know more about!
Geoff show us this!
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L
I filled it with water today and threw some clothes in it.
There was a slight dripping leak underneath,( 1 drip every 7-10 seconds) but I think it might be from one of the hoses.
When I went to drain it I moved the lever and nothing happened for the first 3 times I flipped the switch. Then I unhooked the hose figuring it may need some gravity pull to start. I unhooked the hose and lowered it towards the ground and it started draining slightly but I thought it should be pumping out much harder, as I walked around the tub, it seemed like the pump kicked in. BINGO. I do believe I need a new metal hose top as it was leaking from the connection at the top as it was pumping out.
I'd like to repaint it and replace the chrome ankles and wheels. Are these difficult to take apart to paint ?
Any suggestions on where to get some authentic replacement parts - Chrome ankles, wheels, belt, Chrome hose top hook.
Does this forum allow videos to be posted - If so I can post a few.
I filled it with water today and threw some clothes in it.
There was a slight dripping leak underneath,( 1 drip every 7-10 seconds) but I think it might be from one of the hoses.
When I went to drain it I moved the lever and nothing happened for the first 3 times I flipped the switch. Then I unhooked the hose figuring it may need some gravity pull to start. I unhooked the hose and lowered it towards the ground and it started draining slightly but I thought it should be pumping out much harder, as I walked around the tub, it seemed like the pump kicked in. BINGO. I do believe I need a new metal hose top as it was leaking from the connection at the top as it was pumping out.
I'd like to repaint it and replace the chrome ankles and wheels. Are these difficult to take apart to paint ?
Any suggestions on where to get some authentic replacement parts - Chrome ankles, wheels, belt, Chrome hose top hook.
Does this forum allow videos to be posted - If so I can post a few.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Read
My thread MOVING A MAYTAG E2L. A lot of your questions are covered in my thread over the last 8 weeks since I brought this home.
Luckily your machine is in great condition thanks to your Grandmother taking good care of it.
Just needs some cosmetics to disguise her age. I sanded, primed and painted mine. Some like the wringer assembly I sanded, primed and painted using Rust-Oleum Appliance White Epoxy paint. I'm really happy with the results. Some I painted with the Rust-Oleum from the can, again happy with the result. Stan can help you with that. I used his method.
Here's a picture after the paint job. Note I also have redone the leg extensions and casters.
My thread MOVING A MAYTAG E2L. A lot of your questions are covered in my thread over the last 8 weeks since I brought this home.
Luckily your machine is in great condition thanks to your Grandmother taking good care of it.
Just needs some cosmetics to disguise her age. I sanded, primed and painted mine. Some like the wringer assembly I sanded, primed and painted using Rust-Oleum Appliance White Epoxy paint. I'm really happy with the results. Some I painted with the Rust-Oleum from the can, again happy with the result. Stan can help you with that. I used his method.
Here's a picture after the paint job. Note I also have redone the leg extensions and casters.
Hi valtone
If you check out Larrys thread, he shows what he did with his! (legs and casters) I did something a little different with mine.
Are yours working, but just need the cosmetics?
I have never posted a video here, but others have, so should be fine. (but don't ask me how, I'm not that computer savvy) LOL
There's a least three places that you can get the parts for your machine that you listed. I'll see if I can list them for you tomorrow.
Larry used the appliance paint on part of his, and was happy with it. If you choose that route, my only suggestion is that you prep by wet sanding first, (as he did) wash and dry, and wipe with a tack cloth. Mask off crown, and use Larry's trick for the LETTERING on the front. You'll also have to think about your existing decals on the machine ( ON OFF ) ect, and decide if you are going to cover, mask off, or replace!
My machine is older and had the decal on the front instead of the raised lettering, and was too far gone when I repainted. This decal, as well as the ON OFF decals where important to me to restore, (just my preferrance)
The pre sanding is important to get a smooth finish, especially where you have deeper scrapes. ( you want them to be as smooth and blended as possible before paint)
If you want more details on the paint, ect, let us know
If you check out Larrys thread, he shows what he did with his! (legs and casters) I did something a little different with mine.
Are yours working, but just need the cosmetics?
I have never posted a video here, but others have, so should be fine. (but don't ask me how, I'm not that computer savvy) LOL
There's a least three places that you can get the parts for your machine that you listed. I'll see if I can list them for you tomorrow.
Larry used the appliance paint on part of his, and was happy with it. If you choose that route, my only suggestion is that you prep by wet sanding first, (as he did) wash and dry, and wipe with a tack cloth. Mask off crown, and use Larry's trick for the LETTERING on the front. You'll also have to think about your existing decals on the machine ( ON OFF ) ect, and decide if you are going to cover, mask off, or replace!
My machine is older and had the decal on the front instead of the raised lettering, and was too far gone when I repainted. This decal, as well as the ON OFF decals where important to me to restore, (just my preferrance)
The pre sanding is important to get a smooth finish, especially where you have deeper scrapes. ( you want them to be as smooth and blended as possible before paint)
If you want more details on the paint, ect, let us know
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Hi guys (or gals) ...
Valtone1 ... your machine is very nice; you should follow everyone's advice and fix it up and keep it. Larry knows what he's doing now with taking apart and re-gasketing, lubricating, etc. He'll be a great resource on this thread.
I'm not going to hijack this thread but yes, I have a 1948 Model E2LPT. The "T" stands for timer and it works nicely. You start the timer and pull out the agitator control. When it's finished, you hear a bell and then a mechanism with a plunger pushes the agitator control back in to stop the washing action. This machine has the cast aluminum tub and it is h-e-a-v-y.
The machine I have needs work; not much but some. I would like to try to finish before the snow flies here in Minnesota. I don't do much resto work in the winter; the garage is too cold and I don't like the parts cleaner smell or lacquer thinner smell in the basement.
I'll try to do some photos as I move along with it shortly. I will also start a new thread when I'm ready to show it off. Redcarpetdrew will love it!!
Valtone1 ... your machine is very nice; you should follow everyone's advice and fix it up and keep it. Larry knows what he's doing now with taking apart and re-gasketing, lubricating, etc. He'll be a great resource on this thread.
I'm not going to hijack this thread but yes, I have a 1948 Model E2LPT. The "T" stands for timer and it works nicely. You start the timer and pull out the agitator control. When it's finished, you hear a bell and then a mechanism with a plunger pushes the agitator control back in to stop the washing action. This machine has the cast aluminum tub and it is h-e-a-v-y.
The machine I have needs work; not much but some. I would like to try to finish before the snow flies here in Minnesota. I don't do much resto work in the winter; the garage is too cold and I don't like the parts cleaner smell or lacquer thinner smell in the basement.
I'll try to do some photos as I move along with it shortly. I will also start a new thread when I'm ready to show it off. Redcarpetdrew will love it!!
mickeyd
Well-known member
Nice machine, Anthony. These guys will be a great help.
The rare Maytag timer does indeed stop the agitation, but not the motor. So you can't set the timer and go for a drive. This always surprised me as being not too useful, but some of the Speed Queen timers work the same way, while other SQ timers did indeed shut the motor down. Interesting~ model year and price differences.
For the record, most Wringer Timers, KM, WP, Easy. Norge, Blackstone, etc. shut the motor off. You can even set them to drain and turn off automatically, if you need to be on your merry way. (Sometimes I set the Visimatic to drain--with just a couple minutes on the timer, then hide on the basement stairs to make sure it shuts off. (Chuckle.) Really enjoy pumps, hoses, and draining very much, and watching a conventional machine pretend to be an automatic is a lot of fun.
None of the Easy Spindrier timers turn the motor off; in fact, they turn nothing off. Just a nice bell: the eggs are done, but we can't turn the stove off.
The rare Maytag timer does indeed stop the agitation, but not the motor. So you can't set the timer and go for a drive. This always surprised me as being not too useful, but some of the Speed Queen timers work the same way, while other SQ timers did indeed shut the motor down. Interesting~ model year and price differences.
For the record, most Wringer Timers, KM, WP, Easy. Norge, Blackstone, etc. shut the motor off. You can even set them to drain and turn off automatically, if you need to be on your merry way. (Sometimes I set the Visimatic to drain--with just a couple minutes on the timer, then hide on the basement stairs to make sure it shuts off. (Chuckle.) Really enjoy pumps, hoses, and draining very much, and watching a conventional machine pretend to be an automatic is a lot of fun.
None of the Easy Spindrier timers turn the motor off; in fact, they turn nothing off. Just a nice bell: the eggs are done, but we can't turn the stove off.
Well I'll be
I learned something new! I've never known one with a timer!!
Can't wait til you show us Geoff!
How many did they make with that option?
I learned something new! I've never known one with a timer!!
Can't wait til you show us Geoff!
How many did they make with that option?
Anthony
Heres are some sources for parts.
Phil's Maytag [email protected] phone cell 315-246-246-5518. shop 607-869-2263
appliancepartscopany.com
davesrepair.com
If you google them, you'll find phone #s for the last two. I've used all three for one thing or another.
Heres are some sources for parts.
Phil's Maytag [email protected] phone cell 315-246-246-5518. shop 607-869-2263
appliancepartscopany.com
davesrepair.com
If you google them, you'll find phone #s for the last two. I've used all three for one thing or another.
Sure
I'll email you in a bit.
I'll email you in a bit.
Do youse mean dis?
Pipe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maytag-Wrin...hash=item281ad08e9b:m:m3l0xuQ186QUvoszyp6ysaA
Pipe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maytag-Wrin...hash=item281ad08e9b:m:m3l0xuQ186QUvoszyp6ysaA
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Do youse mean dis?
Laundress wrote:
Pipe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maytag-Wringer-W...
Yeh, i guess. But with shipping, it costs more than the washing machine. I shall look elsewhere.
Laundress wrote:
Pipe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maytag-Wringer-W...
Yeh, i guess. But with shipping, it costs more than the washing machine. I shall look elsewhere.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
How to add oil to the Gyratator E2L transmission?
I have oil leaks around the transmission. It probably hasn't been maintained in more than 30 years and it sounds terrible.
How do you check the oil?
How do you add oil?
Can you simply pour transmission oil down the wringer drive shaft housing?
(i mean it looks like it is all connected.)
What weight of oil?
Can i use automotive automatic transmission fluid?
(I think it is "F" class, whatever that means.)
I have oil leaks around the transmission. It probably hasn't been maintained in more than 30 years and it sounds terrible.
How do you check the oil?
How do you add oil?
Can you simply pour transmission oil down the wringer drive shaft housing?
(i mean it looks like it is all connected.)
What weight of oil?
Can i use automotive automatic transmission fluid?
(I think it is "F" class, whatever that means.)
tinkr
Well-known member
Thread Number: 31181 Maytag E2L oil leak?
Sorry to hear of your issues. the machine appears to be oil free underneath.
Please read the above thread. And determine exactly where the oil Or grease is coming from.
I'm no expert but this is what I learned from my rebuild of my E2LP.
And if I've missed anything someone will fill in the blanks and correct my errors.
there is no way to add oil to the gear case. from what I have been told.
With out dropping and opening the transmission case.
With age the grease in the case becomes really thick and hard it is recommended by members to allow the machine to sit with the hottest water you can fill it with for aprox 1 hour. Before running it.
There are gaskets in the horizontal wringer case one on the tub side and one at the transmission (gear case). With luck it is leaking from dried up gaskets. This will be a heavy grease.
If the water seal that is down and around the agitator shaft is bad well that will cause water in the the gear case to dilute and pump out the breathing hole on top of the horizontal case that goes to the wringer post.
Sorry to hear of your issues. the machine appears to be oil free underneath.
Please read the above thread. And determine exactly where the oil Or grease is coming from.
I'm no expert but this is what I learned from my rebuild of my E2LP.
And if I've missed anything someone will fill in the blanks and correct my errors.
there is no way to add oil to the gear case. from what I have been told.
With out dropping and opening the transmission case.
With age the grease in the case becomes really thick and hard it is recommended by members to allow the machine to sit with the hottest water you can fill it with for aprox 1 hour. Before running it.
There are gaskets in the horizontal wringer case one on the tub side and one at the transmission (gear case). With luck it is leaking from dried up gaskets. This will be a heavy grease.
If the water seal that is down and around the agitator shaft is bad well that will cause water in the the gear case to dilute and pump out the breathing hole on top of the horizontal case that goes to the wringer post.
Terry
Sheryl is right. There is no way to add gear oil to the transmission (power unit) without a tare down. You can also check out Larry's thread titled "moving a maytag E"
In that thread, it shows a well documented and well photographed rebuild with using the correct oils, gaskets ect. Adding oil down the wringer post will not help either. Do as Sheryl has suggested and make sure you know where oil is coming from.
Let us know how you make out, or if you need further help
Sheryl is right. There is no way to add gear oil to the transmission (power unit) without a tare down. You can also check out Larry's thread titled "moving a maytag E"
In that thread, it shows a well documented and well photographed rebuild with using the correct oils, gaskets ect. Adding oil down the wringer post will not help either. Do as Sheryl has suggested and make sure you know where oil is coming from.
Let us know how you make out, or if you need further help
