chef
Active member
Are the o-ring (2-10286) and seal (AP4024008) helical transmissions parts interchangeable? Can I swap out the lower transmission housing?
Maytag helical transmission compatibility
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From 1956-May 1986, the lower housings were cut for an o-ring about an inch and a half down the top center tube.
The upper trans housing for the 12 series machines (1984-July/Aug 1989) had a unique design that only fits those years. They are not backwards compatible with previous years/generations.
In June 1986, Maytag switched to the lip seal at the bottom of the trans which was used into and throughout the entire orbital series until 2006 when the dependable care machines came to a production end.
You can interchange the upper housing within the 12 series line. My guess is that you're trying to acquire a lower transmission housing that accepts the newer lip seal design? It's possible as long as your watch the date codes from a donor machine and another trans has not been swapped in at some point during it's life.
The upper trans housing for the 12 series machines (1984-July/Aug 1989) had a unique design that only fits those years. They are not backwards compatible with previous years/generations.
In June 1986, Maytag switched to the lip seal at the bottom of the trans which was used into and throughout the entire orbital series until 2006 when the dependable care machines came to a production end.
You can interchange the upper housing within the 12 series line. My guess is that you're trying to acquire a lower transmission housing that accepts the newer lip seal design? It's possible as long as your watch the date codes from a donor machine and another trans has not been swapped in at some point during it's life.
chef
Active member
Thank you! Yes, I'm thinking of swapping the lower transmission housing (A612, Sep 1984) that accepts the newer lip seal design.
After disassembling the entire A712, Dec 1988, I don't want to touch the A612 upper trans housing and tub. I'm using the A612 as my primary washer and I will use this machine temporally until I finish the A712.
The A612 is working but has issues. On the A612, I already installed a new brake assembly, repacked the brake lower bearing (Because I can't find any new ones) and purchased a new NSK radial bearing that sits on top of the brake assembly. I still need to change the damper pads. My options for the A612 are to either install a high quality o ring or if possible, install a lip seal lower trans housing.
Is the upper trans housing for the 12 series machines better than the older design?
After disassembling the entire A712, Dec 1988, I don't want to touch the A612 upper trans housing and tub. I'm using the A612 as my primary washer and I will use this machine temporally until I finish the A712.
The A612 is working but has issues. On the A612, I already installed a new brake assembly, repacked the brake lower bearing (Because I can't find any new ones) and purchased a new NSK radial bearing that sits on top of the brake assembly. I still need to change the damper pads. My options for the A612 are to either install a high quality o ring or if possible, install a lip seal lower trans housing.
Is the upper trans housing for the 12 series machines better than the older design?
Is the upper trans housing for the 12 series machines better
Is the upper trans housing for the 12 series machines better than the older design?
It's not better, just different. Instead of having clips and washers hold all of the lower gearing in place, the 12 series incorporated a machined....for the lack of better term...."notch" in the upper housing that accomplished this. With the pre 12 series machines, one can remove the upper housing, turn the lower transmission housing upside-down in an oil pan and drain the contents without the gears falling out. In the 12 series machines, since the upper housing holds the gears in place, one must either remove the gears or hold the pitman gear (which hold the rest of the gearing in place) while tipping the trans to drain. Otherwise, the gears come crashing out. I assume this was done to facilitate quicker assembly while using less parts. As I stated above, one design is not superior to the other, just a different approach.
I have found that the neoprene o-rings seem to hold up better than the lip seal. However, the lip seal is much quicker and easier to replace. To be honest though, by the time the lip seal is leaking, it's time to change the oil. If too much oil leaks out, it needs to be added or, better yet, changed. You could experiment by using a fluorocarbon (viton) o-ring which should be superior to the neoprene. I see the lip seal becoming very difficult to acquire in the not so distant future, so keep that in mind. The neoprene o-ring size is easy and cheap to come by, no reason to purchase it through Whirlpool.
[this post was last edited: 6/6/2023-02:17]
Is the upper trans housing for the 12 series machines better than the older design?
It's not better, just different. Instead of having clips and washers hold all of the lower gearing in place, the 12 series incorporated a machined....for the lack of better term...."notch" in the upper housing that accomplished this. With the pre 12 series machines, one can remove the upper housing, turn the lower transmission housing upside-down in an oil pan and drain the contents without the gears falling out. In the 12 series machines, since the upper housing holds the gears in place, one must either remove the gears or hold the pitman gear (which hold the rest of the gearing in place) while tipping the trans to drain. Otherwise, the gears come crashing out. I assume this was done to facilitate quicker assembly while using less parts. As I stated above, one design is not superior to the other, just a different approach.
I have found that the neoprene o-rings seem to hold up better than the lip seal. However, the lip seal is much quicker and easier to replace. To be honest though, by the time the lip seal is leaking, it's time to change the oil. If too much oil leaks out, it needs to be added or, better yet, changed. You could experiment by using a fluorocarbon (viton) o-ring which should be superior to the neoprene. I see the lip seal becoming very difficult to acquire in the not so distant future, so keep that in mind. The neoprene o-ring size is easy and cheap to come by, no reason to purchase it through Whirlpool.
[this post was last edited: 6/6/2023-02:17]
chef
Active member
Now I have a better understanding. I've only disassembled an A712, Dec 1988 trans. I haven't opened up the A612, Sep 1984 yet.
Your attached photo is a pre 12 series machine trans?
My attached photos are the A712 trans that I took apart and trying to rebuild.
Your attached photo is a pre 12 series machine trans?
My attached photos are the A712 trans that I took apart and trying to rebuild.
I haven't opened up the A612, Sep 1984 yet.
The 612 will look identical, it just has an o-ring down the tube of the trans. You can swap both of the upper housings with zero problems.
Your attached photo is a pre 12 series machine trans?
Yes, early 70's.
I put an arrow of the machined notch which holds the pitman gear in place, thus holding the entire gear train, although I'm sure you are aware of what I'm talking about. Pre 12 series washers (pre 1984) do not have it.
The 612 will look identical, it just has an o-ring down the tube of the trans. You can swap both of the upper housings with zero problems.
Your attached photo is a pre 12 series machine trans?
Yes, early 70's.
I put an arrow of the machined notch which holds the pitman gear in place, thus holding the entire gear train, although I'm sure you are aware of what I'm talking about. Pre 12 series washers (pre 1984) do not have it.
chef
Active member
On my A612, Sep 1984, I'm thinking of swapping out the lower trans housing that uses the lip seal because I don't want to touch the agitator, inner and out drum because if it's anything like the A712, Dec 1988, I won't have a washing machine for awhile. I had to cut off the mounting stem and aluminum nut. The agitator was difficult to remove.
I'm thinking of hoisting the 2 drums and entire trans up to access the lower housing for replacement or change the o ring. I don't think I want to use my A712 lower housing for the A612 because I'll need it for the rebuild.
So I guess I'll try and locate a high quality o ring from Japan or Germany. My A712 came with a made in Japan NSK bearing in it which is still good. The A612 has a Hoover-NSK bearing, which was failed joint venture and that bearing feels like it's dry of grease.
Fortunately, NSK still makes the same upper bearing and that bearing seems to be still turning ok, I still feel the grease when turning. The new NSK bearing has a little more stiffness from fresh grease I suppose. I'll be using the NSK grease for the other lower bearing that's not in production anymore I believe. Whirlpool sells a $8 replacement bearing made in China.
The A612 is what I'll use to wash my clothes until I finish the A712 pitman rebuild.
Also, any idea why my A612 has a brief screeching noise when the spin cycle starts. And I've already installed a new brake assembly, re-packed the lower bearing and installed the new Chinese upper bearing. Later I'll replace the Chinese bearing for the NSK and re-pack the lower bearing with the NSK grease as soon as it's delivered from Japan in a couple of months.
I'm thinking of hoisting the 2 drums and entire trans up to access the lower housing for replacement or change the o ring. I don't think I want to use my A712 lower housing for the A612 because I'll need it for the rebuild.
So I guess I'll try and locate a high quality o ring from Japan or Germany. My A712 came with a made in Japan NSK bearing in it which is still good. The A612 has a Hoover-NSK bearing, which was failed joint venture and that bearing feels like it's dry of grease.
Fortunately, NSK still makes the same upper bearing and that bearing seems to be still turning ok, I still feel the grease when turning. The new NSK bearing has a little more stiffness from fresh grease I suppose. I'll be using the NSK grease for the other lower bearing that's not in production anymore I believe. Whirlpool sells a $8 replacement bearing made in China.
The A612 is what I'll use to wash my clothes until I finish the A712 pitman rebuild.
Also, any idea why my A612 has a brief screeching noise when the spin cycle starts. And I've already installed a new brake assembly, re-packed the lower bearing and installed the new Chinese upper bearing. Later I'll replace the Chinese bearing for the NSK and re-pack the lower bearing with the NSK grease as soon as it's delivered from Japan in a couple of months.
Here's the o-ring dimensions:
15mm ID - .590" - 9/16"
21mm OD - .826" - 13/16"<br style="outline: none !important;" />3mm TH - .118" - 1/8"
<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">https://www.walmart.com/ip/Fluorine...m-Width-FKM-Seal-Gasket-Brown-5pcs/1149212639</span></span>
Also, any idea why my A612 has a brief screeching noise when the spin cycle starts.
That's generally the transmission belt/pulleys. Make sure the motor and transmission pulleys are clean and the belt isn't deteriorating. Also make sure the motor carriage tracks are clean, lubed, and gliding smoothly.
Some other parts, clutch washers:
Old style pinion gear. You'll need to drill your own hole.
Other than the transmission housing gasket, that's about all you'll need. You can use a high quality form a gasket silicone sealant in place of the now impossible to find 22210632 gasket.
15mm ID - .590" - 9/16"
21mm OD - .826" - 13/16"<br style="outline: none !important;" />3mm TH - .118" - 1/8"
<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">https://www.walmart.com/ip/Fluorine...m-Width-FKM-Seal-Gasket-Brown-5pcs/1149212639</span></span>
Also, any idea why my A612 has a brief screeching noise when the spin cycle starts.
That's generally the transmission belt/pulleys. Make sure the motor and transmission pulleys are clean and the belt isn't deteriorating. Also make sure the motor carriage tracks are clean, lubed, and gliding smoothly.
Some other parts, clutch washers:
Old style pinion gear. You'll need to drill your own hole.
Other than the transmission housing gasket, that's about all you'll need. You can use a high quality form a gasket silicone sealant in place of the now impossible to find 22210632 gasket.
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chef
Active member
Thanks qsd-dan
Thanks for the o-ring specs and link.
Those washers should be replaced?
The 2 belts are about a year old. I cleaned the pulleys about 2 weeks ago. The cleaned and lubed the motor carriage tracks.
Would adding an extra spring to the motor carriage help?
Thanks for the o-ring specs and link.
Those washers should be replaced?
The 2 belts are about a year old. I cleaned the pulleys about 2 weeks ago. The cleaned and lubed the motor carriage tracks.
Would adding an extra spring to the motor carriage help?
Those washers should be replaced?
Best to do it while they're still available (obsoleted quite some time ago). The brass washer takes the beating but I've seen a few lug washers that were scored up from heavy use.
<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;" name="start_93487.1182979"></a>
Would adding an extra spring to the motor carriage help?
Not recommended, adding a 3rd spring is generally a band aid for thick oil/seizing upper transmission shaft or other issues/maladjustments. Fix the problem. It also causes the tub to spin up and accelerate too fast during the spin cycle making it more prone to tripping the out of balance/lid switch.
Best to do it while they're still available (obsoleted quite some time ago). The brass washer takes the beating but I've seen a few lug washers that were scored up from heavy use.
<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;" name="start_93487.1182979"></a>
Would adding an extra spring to the motor carriage help?
Not recommended, adding a 3rd spring is generally a band aid for thick oil/seizing upper transmission shaft or other issues/maladjustments. Fix the problem. It also causes the tub to spin up and accelerate too fast during the spin cycle making it more prone to tripping the out of balance/lid switch.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
do it while they're still available
Looks like aftermarket Stem Kits are available, (but probably made in china).
Looks like aftermarket Stem Kits are available, (but probably made in china).
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chef
Active member
I won't be adding a 3rd spring then.
The plan is to leave the upper trans housing attached to the outer and inner tubs and drop down the lower trans housing to change the oil. But is it possible to access the o ring from below? The stem on the trans is about 5" in length. The o ring is about 1" from the top?
It's good to see aftermarket parts for the Maytag. Something is better than nothing...
The plan is to leave the upper trans housing attached to the outer and inner tubs and drop down the lower trans housing to change the oil. But is it possible to access the o ring from below? The stem on the trans is about 5" in length. The o ring is about 1" from the top?
It's good to see aftermarket parts for the Maytag. Something is better than nothing...
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