Hello members,long time lurker,just registered seeking help for a friends no fill/agitate on any cycle washer but will spin and pump out. This happened after a quilt set to wash just before she went to work-came home to find sopping wet in 1/2 tub of water.I was able get it to spin drain-it will on all 3 cycles, but will not fill-pull out knob to start,nothing, not a sound.Online Manual a little confused-says will fill but not agitate with lid open in one area, next says for safety will not fill or agitate with lid open. Friend says it would fill just not agitate-now nothing. Washer gets power from dryer via large multipin connected cable which I have unplugged and reconnected, also multipin inside washer-no luck.Sears parts shows a fuse in this lid swicth which combines the out of balance switch,didn't see it but had no socket wrench with me to remove it so may be on side facing top panel.Switch assembly $73. Does this seem likely culprit? Thank you,Walter
MAYTAG LSE7806ADE stacked washer problem
- Thread starter fisherpaykel
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redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
Sounds like you have a blown fuse at the minimum or a bad lid switch assy and fuse. The lid switch assy has two switches in it and both have to agree on if the lid is open or closed. Any disagreement and the fuse is blown. Sometimes the fuse can blow if you have funny power, ect but not often. The fuse hides behind the washer front panel on the left side. To get to the lid switch assy, you have to slide the washer out a bit and then pull the front panel and lift the top of the washer. The fuse, when blown, will inhibit fill (and wash) but will allow spin/drain.
RCD
RCD
Check out RCD's suggestion first. After that the next two possibilities I would investigate are the water level pressure switch and then it's also possible that the timer has a bad contact that is not allowing the motor forward/fill circuit to be made.
mrb627
Well-known member
a quilt set to wash just before she went to work-came home t
Horrors! I could never leave the house with a washing machine running...
Malcolm
Horrors! I could never leave the house with a washing machine running...
Malcolm
ultramatic52
Member
fuse in this lid swicth which combines the out of balance s
It couldn´t be it, since the washer is spinning on the 3 cycles, if the fuse was blown on the lid switch, the washer will not do anything. You can run a simple test on a fill-agitate cycle, by unplugging the little hose from the pressure switch to the outer and blow on it until it sounds as if it had reached the level desired, and if the washer starts agitating, check the fuse on the inside, left side of the front panel. If it wasn´t blown, check the water valve for any cable disconnected or a failed water valve.
It couldn´t be it, since the washer is spinning on the 3 cycles, if the fuse was blown on the lid switch, the washer will not do anything. You can run a simple test on a fill-agitate cycle, by unplugging the little hose from the pressure switch to the outer and blow on it until it sounds as if it had reached the level desired, and if the washer starts agitating, check the fuse on the inside, left side of the front panel. If it wasn´t blown, check the water valve for any cable disconnected or a failed water valve.
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
It couldn´t be it...
I beg to differ. If you were to actually read the schematic (which is usually taped to the inside of the washer cabinet on the right hand side...), you see that the fuse is in between the water walve and the pressure switch. This will kill the water fill, thereby effectively killing the wash cycle, but will not kill power to the motor itself. SO, you can still spin out the washer. I've repaired >just a few< of these for this issue...
The stack units (and older top loads with the lid switches and fuse combined on the black holder) were wired differently than, say, the LAT models with the white sealed switch and fuse assy...
RCD
[this post was last edited: 12/7/2012-12:44]
I beg to differ. If you were to actually read the schematic (which is usually taped to the inside of the washer cabinet on the right hand side...), you see that the fuse is in between the water walve and the pressure switch. This will kill the water fill, thereby effectively killing the wash cycle, but will not kill power to the motor itself. SO, you can still spin out the washer. I've repaired >just a few< of these for this issue...
The stack units (and older top loads with the lid switches and fuse combined on the black holder) were wired differently than, say, the LAT models with the white sealed switch and fuse assy...
RCD
[this post was last edited: 12/7/2012-12:44]
MT LSE7608
Andy is correct, the fuse was only in the fill valve circuit, MT also did the same thing on a lot of 1990s regular TL washers. These washers had a second lid switch that was a check on the operation of the main lid switch so if the contacts would ever stick closed the 2nd CS would create a direct short and take out the tiny fuse which then keeps the washer from ever filling again until you call the repair guy and have it fixed.
This STUPID system was used to get a UL approval on MTs washers because the spin brake could not stop the washers tub fast enough to meet the newer stricter requirements even though the machine still did not stop any faster and if the lid switch stuck in the closed position the washer would still spin with the lid open and rip your arm off, LOL. MTs slow brake is also why when MT introduced the electronic stack machine in 1986 that this machines washer lid would lock because it was considered a new model and could not be grand fathered in.
When ever we run into this problem we simply bypass the fuse and remove the 2nd CS and the washer will work the same way including the out of balance function of the lid switch, we have made this modification at least 200 times. MT in the later 1990s put in a more effective brake and also eliminated this halfa..ed system of an extra lid switch, this was just one of the reasons that MT lost out to WP in the mid 1980s as the most reliable washer.
Andy is correct, the fuse was only in the fill valve circuit, MT also did the same thing on a lot of 1990s regular TL washers. These washers had a second lid switch that was a check on the operation of the main lid switch so if the contacts would ever stick closed the 2nd CS would create a direct short and take out the tiny fuse which then keeps the washer from ever filling again until you call the repair guy and have it fixed.
This STUPID system was used to get a UL approval on MTs washers because the spin brake could not stop the washers tub fast enough to meet the newer stricter requirements even though the machine still did not stop any faster and if the lid switch stuck in the closed position the washer would still spin with the lid open and rip your arm off, LOL. MTs slow brake is also why when MT introduced the electronic stack machine in 1986 that this machines washer lid would lock because it was considered a new model and could not be grand fathered in.
When ever we run into this problem we simply bypass the fuse and remove the 2nd CS and the washer will work the same way including the out of balance function of the lid switch, we have made this modification at least 200 times. MT in the later 1990s put in a more effective brake and also eliminated this halfa..ed system of an extra lid switch, this was just one of the reasons that MT lost out to WP in the mid 1980s as the most reliable washer.
John, thanks for the explanation about what that extra switch and fuse are for. Ben and I spent an afternoon trying to figure out what the heck that stuff was there for and never came up with a good explanation. Now that I know that I my just wire around it as a prophylactic measure whenever I am cleaning up or working on one of these machines.
mrb627
Well-known member
Cool
You learn something new every day. I never knew this and would have drawn the same false conclusion that other have in this thread.
Thanks for the schooling...
Malcolm
You learn something new every day. I never knew this and would have drawn the same false conclusion that other have in this thread.
Thanks for the schooling...
Malcolm
thanks John......
I too have done this to countless machines, especially finding ones roadside, that someone threw out, all because the fuse blew out....
not many people know that the fuse is even there!
the schematics were easy to read and by-pass all this stuff....
I too have done this to countless machines, especially finding ones roadside, that someone threw out, all because the fuse blew out....
not many people know that the fuse is even there!
the schematics were easy to read and by-pass all this stuff....
Thank you re Maytag stacker
Thank you all for your help,after a delay waiting for the fuse from Sears parts and my friend waiting until after the holidays to call me re install, she now has a working washer again. I was not able to locate the second CS, check switch I assume, or is it even on the units sold in Canada,and since I don't know how to read wiring schematics I was lucky that just the fuse replacement on inside left cabinet face solved the problem. Saved her from buying a used frontload stacker set on craigslist that she can ill afford just now and the potential/probable problem that would be. Thank you,Happy New Year.
Thank you all for your help,after a delay waiting for the fuse from Sears parts and my friend waiting until after the holidays to call me re install, she now has a working washer again. I was not able to locate the second CS, check switch I assume, or is it even on the units sold in Canada,and since I don't know how to read wiring schematics I was lucky that just the fuse replacement on inside left cabinet face solved the problem. Saved her from buying a used frontload stacker set on craigslist that she can ill afford just now and the potential/probable problem that would be. Thank you,Happy New Year.
