Maytag N2L Washer Questions

[jpaul]

Hi, new member here.

I have an aqua blue, round, N2L wringer washer that I use once every two weeks for three loads and I run it off a Honda 2000i generator.

I found some info about adding oil down the wringer tube until it comes out of a hole in the top of the transmission but I do not see this hole on my machine. Am I missing it? And if it had a hole would you be able to force oil into it? I can't seem to find an answer to how to get oil into this machine.

The machine was put on it's side to get it into my vehicle and then quickly uprighted. I see a drop of oil at three locations underneath and am thinking about replacing seals or at the very least right now adding oil because I have no idea what the oil level is. Is there a service manual that would help in seal replacement and are seals available?

This machine has a working pump but I understand that the fibre wheel is no longer available. I'm able to gravity drain it and I think I prefer draining it that way. Is the hose a molded hose? I'm afraid it'll crack if I bent it down for gravity draining. What would be a good non-molded replacement hose to use?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

jPaul

 

[scoots]

Hi Jpaul,

Regarding the oil: there's no practical way to get oil into the transmission: it's (supposedly) a sealed unit and the only way to change/replenish the oil is to take it apart. The consensus of opinion is to run it as-is, it's hard to loose enough oil to create a problem.

The leakage BTW is usually from a breather hole that weeps when the unit is laid down for transport. This can be prevented by removing the ringer head from the upright shaft and laying the unit on its side with the wringer drive shaft on the top.

Manuals are available, typically from eBay.

If you have aqua plastic parts, the unit is relatively new. Your pump wheel should be in good condition to operate the pump: is it making good contact with the drive wheel? Likewise your discharge hose should be supple enough to permit dropping it to the floor without cracking. Very old hoses will crack and they are a standard diameter and can be replaced off the shelf. The problem is that the discharge head has a trick "Chinese finger trap" retaining ring that makes removal and fitting on a new hose difficult.

A word of caution regarding the hose and pump: The pump was the low point in the system and water frequently accumulates there and attacks the metal. If you do remove the hose from the pump, slit the hose in several places and peel it off. Twisting and yanking may damage the pump discharge if it has been weakened by corrosion.

 

[stan]

Hi jpaul

Welcome to the forum.
Agree with everything Scoots just said. I have a service manual if you need it, but I can tell you that there is no way you can add oil
(gear oil) to the power unit without a tear down. Sounds like yours ain't broke.. So don't fix it.
The "pump to tub" hose is molded, and there are replacements out there if you need one, as well as main drain hoses. Agree that if all you need is a main drain hose, you could get one/make one off the shelf.
Mine is a 1954 model and still has enough friction material to continue using my pump. But when I'm finished, I gravity drain the last bit of water into a bucket.
Would add that you should separate your wringer rollers between uses, and to lube and remove agitator between uses.
Let me know if you need the service manual.

 

[jpaul]

Thanks for the welcome, info and tips and the offer for the manual which I have bought. Appreciate it all.

The center "bearing" on my friction wheel separated from the wheel on the N2, maybe an epoxy might work.

I've been searching but can't find any info on a transmission that won't fully engage. Seems like it pulls out about half way but not far enough into the engage position. This one is a E2LPS that I haven't plugged in yet. The agitator was stuck and got it off with boiling water and no safety bulb so I'll try the bolt if I can get it to engage. I was hoping to have one for wash and one for rinse. Still in my truck, I'll have to play with it tomorrow.

 

[stan]

Maybe J.B weld?

Which one has the transmission that won't engage.

 

[jpaul]

the E2 won't engage.

 

[jpaul]

Ok, so it does engage when running. All good, so far.

 

[jpaul]

Pump pumps out full force when I first pull lever to on, then trickles out, surges a bit on and off. Water pops up from drain hole. Will drain eventually but very slowly. Will drain nicely gravity wise so maybe the pump wheel not making good contact?

 

[jpaul]

Got the wringers working, washing a test load…I found that there is no drain plate under the rollers...the part that directs the water that's squeezed out back into the tub, it's missing. Other then that seems to be running nicely.

 

[jpaul]

Turned the pump on and directed the water back into the tub while it was washing and it worked as it should.

 

[stan]

Sounds like your getting

It worked out!
Youl need that plate under the wringer to direct the water where you want it. Depending on what direction the rollers are moving
Let us know if you need parts source