Maytag N2lps question

[stan]

Hi Frank and Welcome to the forum

The "floating" is very common.
You need a stop ring ($3.00) part. I'm not clear on what you did with your "oil change" and not sure what agitator ball and spring you mean? You can remove the whole wringer head and add a little 80/90 gear lube, down the shaft, but this dose not reach the transmission to my knowledge.

Think you should get a hold of Phil at Phil's Maytag 607-869-2263 cell 315-246-5518 EST.
Many of us here have used him for parts and advice. He is very nice to talk with, and will have the stop ring you need. You can explain what you did with your oil ect
He'l be better to answer the question about that.

Stan

 

[mickeyd]

Hello Fellow Maytag Conventioneers

Stan--your drain hose hook--it looks wider, shorter, and nicer than the original. Did you swap it out or what? Interesting.

 

Frank and Bill and Jocks, good luck on your new gems. You're gonna have a lot of fun. Wait till you hear the pumps roar and rumble, and marvel at how powerful they are.

[this post was last edited: 7/12/2012-12:50]

 

[franklynb]

N2L: Ball and Spring

Stan,

If you look at the side of the transmission, you will find an oval cover held by two screws.
In the middle is a serrated cap. I removed that cap after placing the machine on its side.

Under the cap is a preload arrangement for the agitator, which I suspect sets the reversing
torque on the agitator. There is a little clamping pawl that allows the radial position to be
set, held in place by one of the screw. You can feel it preloading a spring while you're tightenting
the cap. If you tighten it too much, the agitator stalls the drive motor. Not good!

If you pull this cap while the machine is still on its feet, all the oil drains out. Some oil had drained
out of the wringer receptacle, as I'd removed it for shipping and the machine was laid on its side.
I wanted to add an appropriate amount of gearbox oil; so i used light spindle oil that I keep in
stock for my milling machine gearbox. Seemed about the same visco. Since its synthetic, its
probably better than original. Its also $120 a gallon.

I called the Maytag hotline, but they couldn't tell me which/how much oil to use; or where to fill it. "we're
not technical. we can help you find a nice serviceperson."

Since it drained while transporting, there must be at least a vent hole between the wringer driveshaft and gearbox;
if not a downright lube or fill path! Since I don't yet own a service manual,
but was anxious to try the machine out, I added enough to make sure that the
gearbox would be bathed.

I had to use an o-ring to replace the cork seal under the adjustment cap. And the machine operates
a dandy! I cleaned the pump "while I was in there." It had accumulated a ton of lint that had
turned to starched rocks over the years of sitting.

hope this helps someone!

--frankb

 

[stan]

Frank

Wow, you really went over and above! a little further and we'd have to call it a complete tare down LOL
And yes, the info shared, I'm sure will help someone!

And yes, there is a breather hole on top of the right angle drive between the "driveshaft and gearbox" it's hard to see it, but if you run your hand along, you'll feel it.

If Geoffdelp (member) comes along, or if you can find him here, and email him, he, I'm sure can answer you question about amount of oil it supposed to hold (he's in MN) and know a great deal about these machines.

If you don't catch up to him, service manual is available, Phil has these. You did so well, hardly sounds like you need one!

HTH

Michael, Thanks for noticing my "my drain hose" LOL

 

[jocks54]

GOT IT!!!!!! Yeah!!!!

Got my new baby this morning!!!
Not in bad shape. A few scratches on the wringer head . Light rusting at waistband. Casters are in good shape, no rusting. (No not me.... sillys the machine) It was a one owner machine. Was an estate clean out. Machine was kept in kitchen.
Got a few qustions but thanks to you guys I am feeling confident
First off:
Stan can you mail me a copy of the instuction book via snail mail? I do not have a printer.
Ok, So everything works but of course the agitator is (?) stuck on and there are coins under it. It probably should come off to clean the screen out. What is the small hole in the plastic agitator for? Removal hints please!!!!
The legs have some slight rust. Can I sand them smooth and repaint with spray Derusto?
Drain hose is cruddy outside what can I use to clean that and soften the rubber up?
Underneath is the usual dust and dirt but do I need to do any maintenace?
It will be used occasionally, so I know to seperate the rollers but should I let gravity empty the water out of the machine or keep some in it?
Thanks guys!
I am sure I will have more questions!
I did not forget the lid! But did not write the serial # down. It does have a 67 in it. The machine is in a friends basement now.
I am so excited!!!!

 

[stan]

Jocks 54

I'll get it in the mail for you tomorrow, so you'll get maybe Thursday! (manual)

Post some pics, if your able!

Stan

 

[franklynb]

Agitator Port

Here's a quick picture of the plug I pulled and used
as a temporary oil fill port. I'm sure there is an easier
way. It had the side journey of allowing me to tune the
agitator a little bit!

No doubt there are warnings in the service manual about pulling
such a stunt. On day 2 or the Maytag Tour, yet. Tsk!

--frankb

 

[stan]

Funny you posted the pic

after I read your post, I had to go look at mine LOL
I didn't turn mine over, did it the lazy way, laid down with a flashlight!

I'm not sure there is an easier way to add, refill, or change the oil. Think you figured out the only way!

Thanks for posting the pic.

Did you locate the vent hole (breather) on the casing ?

What did you do to "tune the agitator" ? what was it doing, or not dong before? Tell Tell!

 

[franklynb]

Maiden Voyage Startup Process

Stan,

When I picked up the machine, I ran it for 5 seconds or so, just to assure
that it still rotated.

In prep for the "maiden run", I:

1) removed the pump and cleared both ports; blew compressed air through it
to try and clear any debris. Once I figure out how to make/buy a new pump
gasket, I'd like to split its case and give it a good cleaning in a parts
washer.

2) Replaced the belt, which looked stretched a bit, and was moldy. A
simple hardware store item, 31" lg. x 1/2"V.

3) Pulled the serrated cap to take a look around. I cleared all the old cork,
and went searching for a 1-1/16" ID soft copper crush washer to replace it with.
I had to use a serrated jaw pipe wrench to tighten the cap back into place,
pulling it down snugly, but gently so that I didn't foul the teeth on the cap.

4) Inspected the drive wheel and set up the engagement mechanism for the pump,
ensuring that the drive wheel didn't slip, but wasn't overly tight.

5) Removed the hoses and checked for debris.

6) Put a little grease on the splines.

I started the motor, and the agitator transmission stalled. By trial and error,
I introduced a little backlash, releasing the cap a few degrees at a
time, until I could feel the agitator start to have a wee bit of radial
"dead zone", when turning it by hand.

I just figured its like any other worm drive transmission. They generally
have some means of adjusting the engagement between the gears along one
of the shafts. On most automotive or garden equipment
differentials, its done with shims to introduce around .002" to .005" of
'running clearance'.

At some point soon I'm going to figure out how to make a proper shim and seal
that replaces the old cork gasket. My o-ring choice was 26mm x 1.5mm thick,
which seems to work OK. I might have to hunt a soft crush washer down from a
hydraulic parts supplier. I think a Stat-O-Seal might even work. A simple
3/4? inch radius hook spanner can work as a cap adjustment tool with a
little grinding on its hook. Bicycle shop item.

Pictures, soon.

--frankb

 

[stan]

Hi Frank

Thanks for the reply. Good job!

So, after going this far would you say that is possible to change the oil by just removing cover ( the two bolts) with out turning the serrated cap (don't think mine needs tuning) and draining and refilling, with say 80/90 gear oil, and just replacing the cover? is there a gasket there, that would have to be replaced?

I ask because it's time for a new belt (still original to my knowledge) and thought "while I'm there"

Stan

 

[stan]

Changed the belt today

(my E2LP)
but didn't mess with the serrated cover, or attempt a oil change.

I've gone over the service manual, over and over, with no indication in there, that the oil can be changed from this location??
(there were no instructions for changing the belt either??)

After changing the belt, I noticed the machine ran very quite! (why I changed it)
My concern though, is that it put me in mind, to pay attention the the motor temp! I thought it ran a little hot??
Dose anyone know if there is a place to oil the motor, service manual dose not mention. ( wish I had inspected when I had it loose!)
Anyone know how warn the motor runs, say on a warm day after a couple of loads?

May re post this as new question

Stan