Maytag Orbital Transmission - Rebushing It...

[orbital-fan]

Folks, I have a Maytag LAT9520AAE topload, 2 belt automatic washer. Long story short, I ran it for a while knowing that water was entering the transmission. I finally removed the transmission, found "mustard" inside, and as it happens, found the internals in pretty good condition, notwithstanding the poor lubricant. Trouble is, with this water / hypoid oil mix - the upper bushings (for the agitator shaft) and the lower bushings (for the input-drive shaft) have become sloppy. I figure I ought NOT to simply install a new o-ring on the agitator shaft and a new lip-seal for the bottom of the input drive shaft - and expect those seals to perform properly when THEY are causing the respective shafts to turn straight (i.e. when there is considerable radial clearance with the bushings).

Do any of you folks know where I can get new oil-lite (I presume) or brass or bronze bushings to properly restore the fit?

I do not want to junk my machine on this basis... but I do NOT want to buy a new transmission, as I already need a new stem seal, top bearing, bottom bearing, clutch bearing, and agitator.

TIA!

Orbital-Fan

 

[good-shepherd]

Try an automotive machine shop, they could probably source new bearings and do the install.

 

[combo52]

Fixing a MT Washer Orbital Washer Transmission

I would look for a good donor machine if you don't want to buy a new transmission, while trying to replace the bushings might be a fun challenge, it may not be worth the trouble, because if you don't do everything perfectly the repair might not last long.

 

John L.

 

[orbital-fan]

Thank you, folks, for your replies... I will consider your suggestions. Related, though, have any of the Members noted, with the agitator shaft partially-out of the transmission housing (I mean, here, where the shaft is NOT supported / constrained by its lower bushing... only supported by its upper bushing) - relatively speaking, how much slack, "rattle", is evident? This speaks to the diametral clearance between the bore of the upper bushing and the nominal diameter of the agitator shaft.

In like manner, with the (input) drive shaft partially removed (to the underside) from the lower portion of the transmission housing, relatively, how much slop is evident there?

I am thinking, maybe some slop is normal.

I have a micrometer to measure the agitator shaft and the drive shaft -- but I do not have an inside Mike to measure the bushing bore diameters...

TIA for any responses!

John - Vancouver, BC Canada

 

[lowefficiency]

John, did you have any luck finding a machine shop to replace your bushings?

(And a free thread bump for answers to your shaft tolerance questions.)

 

[orbital-fan]

Thanks for the thread-bump.

You know, I gave up on this whole matter. I called a (professed-to-be) prolific washing machine / dryer repair place, here in the Vancouver area... and LOL - they said they did not even open up transmissions. I would have thought otherwise... but labour costs as they are.... I just did not want to spend any more on it...and as it was, due to the agitator set-screw breaking off (why, I don't know... mebe a flaw from the outset) - I also had to replace the agitator. $$$$ + would have had to also buy a clutch / brake removal tool.

I did not want to spend more on it... so I ended up junking it ( ) and buying a Huebsch / Alliance / US Speed Queen light commercial machine... 210 degrees agitator stroke, 65 strokes per minute. This unit has a touchpad switch control arrangement (though I would have preferred a mechanical timing unit). This was a new old-stock 2017 model unit that has a variable load size, but no sud-saver arrangement. Porcelain steel inner drum.

I am hoping I get some life out of it.

I have learned my lesson, and could kick myself. I should have reacted once I first started seeing leaks... and should have changed the tub seal. As it was, I got water in the transmission fluid... and you know the rest.

Thanks for the helpful suggestions...

John - orbital-fan

Vancouver