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joefuss1984

joefuss1984

Well-known member
Platinum Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
358
Location
Little Rock, AR
I swapped out my Kenmore Oasis with my Maytag LAT8714 today. I am so surprised by the shorter cycle times on the Maytag.

It seems to have a rattle or a knock during agitation. I have posted a youtube video. You can hear it the best when i show the belts and again right at the end when I am looking at the motor. Sorry if the quality isn't great, all I have is my iPhone to video with.

Also, how does one know when the belts should be changed? I washed a queen sized blanket and it seemed to take a while to get up to speed and all the water drained out. Other loads have seemed better, so maybe it is just the weight of the blanket. Agitation is just fine.

Anyway, I'm more concerned with this rattle/knocking noise.

 
I would check the belts.....I had one that the drive belt had a section that was wider than the rest....not even....and would jump and slap every time it came around the motors pulley, causing the motor to really move back and forth.....

look at your motor in the video...it seems to be jumping back and forth....once the machine starts and the motor slides back with full tension, it roughly stays in place....yours has a little jump to it....

not to mention when you show the pump belt, its also jumping around.....it should be moving around the pulleys smoothly

just a thought to check out....
 
belt change

What is the best method to change the belts? I have no history on this machine to know if it has ever been done but they feel kinda dry to me compared to other rubber belts I have dealt with on vacuums and things. They do have a lot of slack in them as well. How tight should they feel?
 
Slack or tension is created for the drive belt by the spring tension of the motors mount and glides....

the pumps belt is usually best measured by trying to pinch the belt together at the center point, there should be a 1/4 inch gap, without the motor sliding

new belts can be put on in seconds.....just tilt the machine back, and put a 2x4 under there to keep it propped up, the pump belt will slide off first, and then the main drive one......reverse to put them on......no need to lay the machine down or disconnect from the water supply, although for safety, unplug it......no tools needed for this except a phillips to take off the front panel....but from the video, your already there...

theres a bunch of thread on how to do this........but in the time you look for it, you could have them off and new ones on.....

if the belts are worn...it may be a good idea to check and lube the glides and check the tension of the springs.......there is a rebuild kit for this, new glides, lube and springs.....for under 20.00.....and just as simple to do!

let us know how you make out
 
The bag that has the belts usually has instructions for adjusting tension which is done by loosening the pump (5/16" screws) and sliding it over. I've always found that I can check the belts by bending them backwards a little. Good belts will be supple enough to bend ok but worn out belts will actually crack like a rotton twig.

RCD
 
She has sprung a leak....

I am going to order the new belts tomorrow probably. It seems to be a common problem to spring a leak where the bleach dispenser hose connects to the bottom of the outer tub. I am going to order a new hose clamp but would it be ok to just cut the end section of the bleach hose off and reattach or should I replace the hose? Its just a minor leak and caught early enough so thats good!

RCD, hope everything is going well and hope your leg is mending up well. A friend of mine broke her hand a couple months ago and she is still having problems with it.

Yogitunes, thanks for your help!
 
Yes I would start with what the guy's said above the agitation is to slow.
The belt should resovle this.
Best of luck.
Here is a video of Good agitation you want.
The pitch and short strokes are much faster here Normal sound Orbital Drive.
And these where the last Maytags.
2:30 mins in the video starts washing.
<iframe width=420 height=315 src= frameborder=0 allowfullscreen></iframe>

Darren k
 
I should have said.....

That I had that on the delicate cycle. On regular it does agitate like you see in the video above.

Yogitunes, when the pump belt gets to about 1/4" the motor does glide, so that sounds normal, however I am able to pull the belt well outside of the cabinet LOL, When I squeeze the drive built the motor starts to glide almost immediately.

I am going to go ahead and change the belts and hopefully that will stop the knock I am hearing.

I am attaching a couple of pictures of the spout on the outer tub where the bleach tube connects. is there something I can do to protect this from rusting out?

joefuss1984++3-18-2012-16-17-59.jpg
 
2 or 3 springs

I haven't found a good picture of the motor carriage yet looking through the history on the site, but I have 2 springs on the left side of the carriage, and it looks like a place for a 3rd on the right side but there is no spring. I checked my LAT9605 and it is the same. So have I been flim flammed or is that the way it is supposed to be?
 
It is supposed to only be 2 springs, as from the factory.......but I add a third to the extra slots, adds a little more tension for a better grip.......

I think for the bleach port, you may want to sand the rust off, and apply something like JBweld to coat everything, and then reattach the hose with a new clamp......your catching it early enough before major rust thru.....others may chime in with a better idea...
 
Rusty bleach port

Joe,

There's really not any way to completely rustproof that port w/o taking out the inter basket, removing the bleach deflector, using a rust remover and emery cloth, coating the port inside and out with JB Weld, putting the deflector back in, and reinstalling the basket and hose.

If you don't want to take out the basket you could spray the outside and inside of the port with CLR, Lime-a-Way, or white vinegar a few times and rinse, dry and coat the outside and base of the port with JB, let dry 24 hours and reassemble.

I've found that on all the machines I've worked on that the pump can most always be moved all the way to the right side of the adjustment slots for proper belt tension. When you're working on your pump you might as well take it out and remove that oil plug screw and give that pump a good shot of turbine oil. It's not a big deal.

Checking some old threads in the archives is a good way to learn things. My thread in the Imperial section of 2012, #38714 might give you some info. Also thread #28069, 22830, and 25520 in Imperial are also good. Also go to the Searchalator, select Imperial, plug in key words and click search. There's a lot of info. out there. Good luck.

Brian
 
Belts for MT washers

It is VERY unlikely that you need to replace the pump drive belt and maybe even the main drive belt. It is usually best to take your old belts into an appliance parts store and compare them to new belts and if you can't see any difference new belts won't do any good. It is also VERY important that the pump belt not be adjusted to tight, it is supposed to be VERY loose, if you move the water pump all the way to the right you will likely have problems with the main drive belt slipping during agitation.

 

The pump belt will outlast most MT Helical Drive washers, so if I do ever replace the pump belt I try to buy aftermarket pump belts. The main Dr belt is more critical so I try to use the genuine MT [ WP ] belt.
 
Mid-South Distributing

I found an appliance distributing company here in LR.  They advertise genuine factory parts and had the belt set for 30 bucks.  I consider that a deal seeing how Sears and Whirlpool wanted 30 bucks for just one belt and 20 something for the other one.  I am going to pick up the set tomorrow and compare those with what is one the machine to determine if they need replaced.  If not then I have a set if I ever need them.  On lubricating the pump, where do I find turbine oil and which screw is the one for the oil?
 
2 More videos

Is this tub indexing normal? This usually happens during a full load of like towels or jeans. To mimick what happens I put a larger load with a smaller water portion for this part of the video. When I had a full load in here you couldnt see it because my iPhone quality isnt so great.



Spray rinse starts before tub is empty of water, takes about 1.30 to drain a full tub of laundry. Is that normal?

 
Belts Changed

The drive pulley has a little play in it, and I think that is where my noise on agitation comes from. I am fixing to run a test load and see if that is gone since I changed the belts.

Motor springs and glides surely need replaced. It still springs but kinda sticks on its way back without any belts on the machine.
 

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