Maytag Timer Help

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geoffdelp

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Joined
Sep 17, 2004
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SAUK RAPIDS
Good Morning ... MAJOR computer problems this morning!! Good grief.

Here are the photos of my timer issue with the 101P.

Thanks for any help ...

First one shows the old timer and the two wires that connect to it. The orange wire terminates to the other side of the timer and the red wire terminates into the light harness with another red wire from the temperature selection dial.

7-12-2005-10-34-26--geoffdelp.jpg
 
The next picture shows the new timer with the black wires coming out of the back.

I don't know how to connect these.

This timer has the same part number as the original, but you can see the set-up is a little different.

7-12-2005-10-37-8--geoffdelp.jpg
 
Hi Geoff, first lets do some wiring analysis. This diagram is from the original AMP, but I suspect that its very close, if not the same timer in the 101P.

One wire looks like it should go into the same connection as the lamp and water valve, the other wire appears to go into terminal 2-A.

Geoff, first of all is there a termial marked 2-A?

7-12-2005-10-43-26--Unimatic1140.jpg
 
Why don't you just post the info here Chris, that way we all get to learn. By private email no one can reference this important info later on if someone else finds and works on a similar machine.

I always will give much more indepth answers (if I know the answer) to questions people have when posted here as opposed to when I am privately emailed.
 
Hi guys ... I STILL have minimal computer access today. My system is scanning and I have a possible hard drive issue. I can get on my personal system tonight when I'm at home and have access to the machine.

Robert ... I think the orange wire terminates BACK to 2A. I'll check when I get home. The timer is marked; so I'll take a double look.

Chris ... thank you!!

Thanks for your patience guys; it's not a good day!! :-(
 
Wait a minute, now that I'm home and had a good chance to review those pictures, Geoff it appears to me that the red and orange wires go into the timer motor, is that correct? If so all you have to do is cut the ends off the red and orange wires as well as the ends off of the timer motor wires, then using wire nuts and a wire stripper connect black/red and black orange together and your done.

Does that make sense?
 
Robert ... that DOES make sense! I have a wire stripper, but I've never used wire nuts. Do I just go in and ask for them at the hardware store? Does it matter which black wire goes on the red and which black wire goes on the orange?

Also, I checked the timer last night. The orange wire terminates back to the other side of the timer into 2A. I have the same wiring diagram that you have posted here, but I don't understand it!! I see 2A on the diagram, but it looks like it is part of the valve control. Is that right? Why would it terminate back to itself?
 
Hi Geoff, according to the electrical chart above, terminal 2A goes from the timer directly into the timer motor. While the wiring diagram does show the wire from 2A crossing over the valve control it does not physically connect to it. The little bump in the line at the water control means that it crosses over but does not connect at that point. It’s for the convenience of drawing the chart only.

Yes at the hardware store get a box of wire nuts for connecting 2 14 gauge wires.
 
Hi Robert, OK ... that makes sense with 2A! Now when I look at the chart, I can see where the connection with 2A is with the timer and its motor. So, that makes sense that it terminates back to itself; it's where it belongs ~ right?

The "bump" also makes sense that the wire passes through the valve control but doesn't actually make connection; for drawing the schematics only.

Does it matter which black wires I use for the orange and which one I use for the red?
 
Hi Geoff, nope it doesn't make any difference which black wire to use for either the orange or red wire, as long as a black wire is matched up with a colored wire you will be fine.
 
Hi Robert, thanks for the help!! I'll give it a shot.

I kept the old drain hose and while really stiff, I can put it on the machine and give her a test drive this weekend in the driveway!

BTW, I took the wheel off the pump and was able to shoot some 3-in-1 around the screw and bushing. The pump no longer "screams", so I should be able to put it back on the machine too.

I guess I better get some Lime Away and some scrubby pads to try to clean the rust out of the tub. Do you think that will work?
 
Geoff I would use Bon-Ami and light pressure with the scrubby pads, you might want to try Bon-Ami with a regular sponge and some elbow-grease. Do be careful with those pads as they can easily take the shine off of the porcelain.
 
Thanks, Robert ... Bon-Ami and a sponge ... we'll give it a shot!!!

I also want to paint the balancing ring; it should be black. I guess black Rustoleum should do the trick.

I'll take pictures.
 
Ben:

Sorry Robert, I'm cutting in...

It is sold in supermakets (at least in my area) with other cleansers like Comet, Ajax, Dutch Boy (Hi Louis!) and the supermarkets label etc.

It is in a yellow canister with a shaker top and has red chicks on it (little chickens!)

If this is unavailable near you, write to me and I will send you some..

[email protected]

-Steve
 
Greg, I've seen that Super Iron Out before. There are a lot of products up here; some of the wells are very hard in the rural areas.

I can't wait to get it in running order and then I'll do the cosmetics and rearrange my laundry room!!!!!
 

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