Maytag Top Loader problem

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iheartmaytag

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Wichita, Kansas
Last Thursday my Maytag Dependable Care Plus sprung a leak. I have been having problems with water around the machine but it wasn't all the time.

I had the repair man out about two months ago, and he thought it was a stuck fill valve so he cleaned it and said all was ok.

Well--Thursday night I was standing there watching it fill so I knew it hadn't overflowed when I noticed water coming from the bottom of the machine. I took the front off and water was pouring from the center where the agitator shaft goes through.

I have called the service man, but some are saying the washer is toast. That the leak probably took out the transmission. Is this true? I am really not in the position to buy a new washer at this time even if I wanted one (which I don't).

I'm just trying to prepare myself for the worst, so I will be happy when the lesser happens. The machine is only 13 years old, I expect at least another 20 years out of it. I average about one load a day. I say one, becasue there are days I don't wash, then there are days I do seven loads when I strip beds etc.

I think the old girl still has a lot of life left in her. Let us Pray.
 
It is possible.

I'm sure it can be fixed. I don't know how, but it must be possible. If you need a new transmission, I think the new Orbital ones are still available. If you want to get crazy get a used Helical transmission for the large capacity washers and a Power Fin agitator to match.

A few seals, maybe a new transmission, certainly not impossible.
Dave
 
Shoot the serviceman...

How many times I see one of my fellow servicemen throw the 'tranny' card out like that as justification for not wanting to do the job... I see alot of tub bearings and seals go bad WITHOUT hurting the transmission. ( The Majority don't )
I have to go out on route this morning so I'm rushed, but I'll try to get back here this PM with part numbers and some advice to try to save your girl... I think we can do it...

RCD
 
I think mine has the helical

It looks like a funnel turned sideways under the tub. I am pretty sure it's a helical because it does have the white 12 vain agitator.

I am hoping that the water running over the outside the transmission is a good sign, maybe the seal protected it from going inside.

The service company just called, they will be out tomorow afternoon.
 
Sounds like the center tub stem & seal kit needs replacing. You may also need a tub bearing kit. If it's been leaking for awhile without you knowing it, you may need a radial bearing (below the baseplate), especially if it makes alot of bearing noise during the spin cycle. The tranny is fine.
 
Transmission.

Yours has the newer style transmission. Unless I have them flipped around in my mind, the old one is the Helical and the new one is the Orbital. If I am right, the Orbital is the short fast stroke, and the Helical is the long slow stroke. Both are excellent, although I prefer the long slow stroke.

Getting my bearings...
Dave
 
You may be right Volvoguy.
In the brochure when I bought it, it was called the Dependable Care Transmission.

I thought the orbital was shorter in profile and rode up next to the tub. The one I have (whichever it is) all sits below the tub. It reminds me of a funnel turned sideways, or if you were looking at an old truck defferential.

It was bought new on 5-9-95, I believe the model is LAT 8704. I looked it up this afternoon for the appliance lady setting the appointment.

Good new,it seems that my homebuyer's warranty will cover all but $55 of the repairs. That's a big relief.
 
IHeartMaytag, you have the two tranny styles reversed. Yours is orbital. However, technically, both are helical-drive, which refers to how the motor drives the tranny and spin basket. The orbital tranny design is changed internally, in how the transmission converts the motor's rotation into oscillation of the agitator.
 
You indeed have the orbital transmission. I'm glad you have a warranty to fix it and as long as the tech coming out knows what he's doing, you should be ok.
Parts that should be replaced:(Refer to picture below)
#29 - P/N 22001648 Mounting stem and seal kit (Cause of the leak)
#21 - P/N 204013 Tub bearing repair kit (can be damaged by the leak)

Addt'l parts that SHOULD be replaced to do the job right:
#4 - P/N 200744 Tub bolt & gasket assy (short) QTY 1
- P/N 205254 Tub bolt & Gasket assy (long) QTY 2

When pulling the outer tub to get to the bearing and seal assy's, these bolts should be replaced to avoid possible leak issues later.

By the way, these part numbers are good for rebuilding older Maytags, as well...

RCD
 
I have a brand new Maytag orbital trans still in the box if you need one. The seller claimed it was the older helical trans, but it was immediately obvious by the narrow box that it was an orbital. I paid $100 for it, so I'd sell it to you for $75. I have no use for it.
 
As long as...

There are shallow and deep tub orbitals. His is a deep tub.
As long as it's P/N 206707 which subs to P/N 22002126, It'll work well...but you probably knew that... :)

RCD
 
Well, I knew there was a shallow and deep tub, but I'm not up to date on the newer transmissions. I have way too much fun with the older tranny's :)

BTW, since you have been in the industry long enough to service many orbital and helical transmissions, what is your opinion on the helical vs. the orbital for longevity, reliability, and clean-ability?
 
Well...

The Helical Transmission is very bulletproof. The main reason I have to crack one open (and not that often at that) is to replace the lower shaft o-ring seal which can only be done from inside. They have a nice long stroke which is gentler on the clothes and does well with the lint collection with the in the agitator lint filter. I think the older style also has a longer service life due to how it's made and the materials used.

That being said, the orbital has it's points, too. Less moving parts, almost completely field serviceable without gutting the washer to get it out and, in it's own way, I think it washes ok. The stroke is faster and shorter but coupled with the Loadsensor (Corkscrew 2 pc) agitator, it moves some of the bulkier loads that the older style transmission had trouble rolling over... The main weakness I see in the orbitals is a bad habit of throwing the lower oil seal and leaking. The oil seal (a lip seal) is relatively easy to change from the bottom once you pull the drive pulley, but even after changing the seal, the leak may re-occur... I'll take the Maytag orbital transmission over the Whirlpool direct drive model any day as all you have to do is sneeze at it and it'll throw the neutral drain pkg out of whack or break one of MANY revisions of the coupler...

RCD
 
The repair man just left my house

He was there all of about 10 minutes, pronounced the old girl dead and left.

Estimate to fix $585. Exactally the same amount I gave for her 13 years ago this month. He said he didn't think the home warranty will approve this size repair for this old of a machine because they figure a washer's life cycle of seven years. He is going to submit the estimate to them, and maybe because it is a Maytag they may approve it.
 
RCD: Thanks for your detailed and unbiased opinion. I asked Jim the same question, but all of his answers to any appliance were extremely biased in that the newer design was ALWAYS better.

Iheartmaytag: I'm guessing he pronounced your orbital transmission dead. The offer still stands for the new (not rebuilt) one I have in the box.
 
Did he at least leave a rose on the pillow?!?

Wow. Was that estimate including the supposed bad transmission? Lean the machine back against the wall, remove the drive belt and turn the drive pulley counter-clockwise. The pulley should turn smoothly and easily and the agitator should move.(Did this person even do that?) That should indicate what is most likely a happy transmission. The only way he can properly diagnose a water contaminated transmission is to crack open the cover on it and look for oil blended with water... I see, maybe, 1 in 70 or so 'water in transmissions'.
Lets play with some numbers for fun...

As far as parts: (in Reno prices)
22001648 subs to
22204012 $52.25
204013 $41.99
205254(qty2)$8.82
200744 $2.97
--------------
total $106.03
Avg Labor @ 1 hr.
Est $109.00
--------------
Total $215.03 + tax(Approx)

Maybe I'm off base about this. Maybe this guy's on the level. Maybe I should climb off my soapbox, but I hate seeing huge estimates thrown at good machinery causing premature retirement usually due to the repair person not wanting to fix it and instead sell another or being on commission. It does happen. Alot.
Time for my chill pill...

RCD
 
RCD

No this estimate doesn't involve the transmission. Its for a tub seal, bearing and belts. It's the labor that caused him to ram it in without KY.

I have to wait for the Home warranty company to decide if they are going to repair or replace it. I really don't want a new machine, but what's a poor guy to do?
 
RCD

No he did not lean the machine back. In fact he walked in wrote down the serial and model number. Took the front off the machine, filled it spun out the water, said he would submit the estimate. Total time in the house was less than ten minutes. And he charged me $55 for that.

I always thought when I get screwed that fast they should be the ones leaving the money on the dresser.
 
Worthless service!

If the warranty company wants to replace it, I say you should start over and get an estimate from a competent service company. If that won't happen, fix the d!@n thing yourself. A Maytag Dependable Care of any vintage is better than the new junk you can buy today. Although Speed Queen top loaders are pretty good, I still think an old Maytag is far better. Even considering the cost of the repair and the age and wear on the rest of the machine, you're still better off with the Maytag.

Maytags are easy to service, what's this repair-person's problem?
Dave
 

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