I did switch the vise grips from what is shown in the picture as this is counterclockwise removal. I have smacked it quite a bit with a dead blow but not like a gorilla.. my vise grips are denting the outer ring of the brake and they pop off after a couple hits. I'm not normally a farmer type repairman. lol. I don't want to knock off one of the four tapered fins hitting a flat chisel or bar on that. I will let the penetrating oil soak longer and may go rent the spanner wrench.
Maytag washer clunking sound during agitation
- Thread starter elksk
- Start date
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I got the brake off. If you would have said to hit the vise grips at their tip near the screw! I was using it like a lever at first. It took more than love taps for sure. Radial bearing feels good. Splines don't look to be worn. I figure they are this multi faceted shape. The clunking by these gears does seem to correspond to my noise and movement amount. How did hair get wound all up here? At first I'm thinking it was a hemp gasket.
Interesting about the hair, you should have analyzed to see who it came from.
Yes when removing the brake this way you have to hit it right at the edge of the Brake, I have never had to hit one more than twice to get it loose.
Yes when removing the brake this way you have to hit it right at the edge of the Brake, I have never had to hit one more than twice to get it loose.
the interesting thing about the hair is that there wasn't lots of hair in the cabinet. not lots of hair in our laundry room and never any pets inside the house with this unit. is there a way to learn of the date of manufacture?
model LAT9714AAE
S/N A0104798KU
model LAT9714AAE
S/N A0104798KU
Sept 1994 per the serial.
Well it appears that grease was what she needed. The tranny still moves but no clunking sound. How long the grease will stay in there as it must be being squished back and forth with no seal to keep it in. I bought Lucas marine grease but it wasn't any thicker than my moly lube or and bearing grease I've used.
YouTube, apparently effective March 2021, converts videos of vertical orientation and 60 seconds or less duration to a new Shorts format as their answer to TikTok.
Shared Shorts URLs aren't (at this time) recognized by AutomaticWasher's site software for automatic embedding and playback in posts and must be copied/pasted for viewing. The resultant display page when copying/pasting a Shorts URL for viewing includes unrelated videos that may autoplay when scrolling down.
A regular YouTube URL works better and can be maximized to full-screen when viewing on a computer. A Shorts URL can (thus far, assuming YouTube doesn't take steps to prevent it) be coded as a regular video by manually writing out the URL in this format, written here with extra spaces to avoid the automatic embedding so the syntax can be seen. V= at the end is the specific video ID number, which can be gotten from a Shorts URL.
https:// w w w.youtube .com/watch?v=0HZI2J72eZ4
I haven't posted to YouTube much. But thanks for the help.
So I just post my video number after this?
https:// w w w.youtube .com/watch?v=
I must thanks you guys for inspiration and guidance.
Sad to imagine how many hit the trash due to this noise.
Seems like an ok design. Except for the open belts on the bottom. Maybe a baby could get finger caught in that pump belt.
Also looking at the parts houses it's ridiculous how much some of the parts cost the bleach hose and pump.
So I just post my video number after this?
https:// w w w.youtube .com/watch?v=
I must thanks you guys for inspiration and guidance.
Sad to imagine how many hit the trash due to this noise.
Seems like an ok design. Except for the open belts on the bottom. Maybe a baby could get finger caught in that pump belt.
Also looking at the parts houses it's ridiculous how much some of the parts cost the bleach hose and pump.
<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;" name="start_90013.1146319"></a>
Except for the open belts on the bottom. Maybe a baby could get finger caught in that pump belt.
The front panel should have a gray belt guard cover at the bottom. If it doesn't, either someone took it off or a factory worker forgot to install it to the front cover.
<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;" name="start_90013.1146319"></a>
Also looking at the parts houses it's ridiculous how much some of the parts cost the bleach hose and pump.
That's because virtually everything is now obsolete and Whirlpool/part houses are gouging customers on what's lingering in stock. You should have seen how ridiculously cheap prices were on parts when Maytag was still at the helm. I watched the gray leveling feet covers go from .75 cents each right before Whirlpool took over to $4 right after Whirlpool took over. I just checked and they now go for $9. Also, when Maytag was still Maytag, you could get parts 50 years back for nearly everything they made. Hard to imagine that sort of customer service once existed, but it did.
[this post was last edited: 4/11/2022-21:10]
Except for the open belts on the bottom. Maybe a baby could get finger caught in that pump belt.
The front panel should have a gray belt guard cover at the bottom. If it doesn't, either someone took it off or a factory worker forgot to install it to the front cover.
<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;" name="start_90013.1146319"></a>
Also looking at the parts houses it's ridiculous how much some of the parts cost the bleach hose and pump.
That's because virtually everything is now obsolete and Whirlpool/part houses are gouging customers on what's lingering in stock. You should have seen how ridiculously cheap prices were on parts when Maytag was still at the helm. I watched the gray leveling feet covers go from .75 cents each right before Whirlpool took over to $4 right after Whirlpool took over. I just checked and they now go for $9. Also, when Maytag was still Maytag, you could get parts 50 years back for nearly everything they made. Hard to imagine that sort of customer service once existed, but it did.
[this post was last edited: 4/11/2022-21:10]
You are right my front cover has a 4" bottom plate. I stopped by an appliance
repair place today. He said he has lots of parts but no transmissions. He has new and used on his floor. A similar model LAT96xx was 250$ it had similar controls but no bleach dispenser. I also have a 20 year old Kenmore dishwasher that I've had to repair a bit. I recall a repairman early in it's life saying he wished he had a warehouse full of those because they are so good. We hand wash mostly. Or new model wifey does.
Once again thanks everyone. I will look around here a bit. I didn't know anyone collected old W/D. They take up so much room. I have pondered about making a cold dishwasher into a parts washer. I've watched YouTube videos of a guy turning both electric and gas dryer into a shop heater.
repair place today. He said he has lots of parts but no transmissions. He has new and used on his floor. A similar model LAT96xx was 250$ it had similar controls but no bleach dispenser. I also have a 20 year old Kenmore dishwasher that I've had to repair a bit. I recall a repairman early in it's life saying he wished he had a warehouse full of those because they are so good. We hand wash mostly. Or new model wifey does.
Once again thanks everyone. I will look around here a bit. I didn't know anyone collected old W/D. They take up so much room. I have pondered about making a cold dishwasher into a parts washer. I've watched YouTube videos of a guy turning both electric and gas dryer into a shop heater.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
bought Lucas marine grease
I found the Walmart SuperTech Marine grease is tackier than regular wheel bearing grease.
IMO with the exception of Lubri-Plate most boutique oils and greases are nothing special.
I found the Walmart SuperTech Marine grease is tackier than regular wheel bearing grease.
IMO with the exception of Lubri-Plate most boutique oils and greases are nothing special.
Yay problem solved
Good call Dan You definitely aced this one.
This is always the problem with listening to something on a video it’s very hard to figure out what’s going on when you’re not actually with the machine it looks like the two guys that responded that repair these machines for a living both blew it.
Sorry I helped put you through taking the transmission apart, if I see one of these making a knocking noise again obviously by holding the transmission you could probably stop the noise and I would try squirting some heavy oil under the rubber splash guard and see if that quiets sit down before I took it all apart to put grease on the splines.
This is the thing I love about this site even with as many machines as I worked on I do learn new things which helps me in what I do,
Thanks Dan
John L
Good call Dan You definitely aced this one.
This is always the problem with listening to something on a video it’s very hard to figure out what’s going on when you’re not actually with the machine it looks like the two guys that responded that repair these machines for a living both blew it.
Sorry I helped put you through taking the transmission apart, if I see one of these making a knocking noise again obviously by holding the transmission you could probably stop the noise and I would try squirting some heavy oil under the rubber splash guard and see if that quiets sit down before I took it all apart to put grease on the splines.
This is the thing I love about this site even with as many machines as I worked on I do learn new things which helps me in what I do,
Thanks Dan
John L
well just 2nd load and it appears the sound is coming back. could there be to much wear on the shaft or brake assy splines? Maybe I can find some real thick sticky grease. I inspected the shaft spline real close but maybe it was worn> I didnt inspect inside the brake.
The brake assy is like 112$ I guess the male spline is part of the transmission and not available. I did note that the splines were not straight sided but I thought maybe they were machined with a chamfer on them... but maybe it is wear? I will include my best picture again
The brake assy is like 112$ I guess the male spline is part of the transmission and not available. I did note that the splines were not straight sided but I thought maybe they were machined with a chamfer on them... but maybe it is wear? I will include my best picture again
LAT Maytag Clunking Durning Agitation
There is no likely way the steel splines on the transmission shaft would be worn, the brake is aluminum however and could be worn but I have never seen this as an issue.
If you hold the transmission durning agitation from moving and the noise goes away replace the brake assembly, I would just put in a used one as they never fail anyway.
Otherwise I would use the washer and see what happens if it is worn splines it is never going to fail anyway.
You can also add heavy sound deadener to the inside of the lower cabinet if the sound really bothers you,
My money is still on something starting to fail inside the transmission.
John L.
There is no likely way the steel splines on the transmission shaft would be worn, the brake is aluminum however and could be worn but I have never seen this as an issue.
If you hold the transmission durning agitation from moving and the noise goes away replace the brake assembly, I would just put in a used one as they never fail anyway.
Otherwise I would use the washer and see what happens if it is worn splines it is never going to fail anyway.
You can also add heavy sound deadener to the inside of the lower cabinet if the sound really bothers you,
My money is still on something starting to fail inside the transmission.
John L.
odd it is not sounding unbearably loud on the load just now. it is possible the noise I heard was a unbalanced load in the rinse cycle. Which may be a different issue. I did go look at it and the load didn't look very unbalanced but I also moved the washer around on its sloped platform (with drain) so the washer was more stable.
good to hear the splines don't wear out. If I hear it again I will pull off the front and see if I can hold the tranny from oscillating. An I will be careful to only try this at the beginning of the agitation cycle.
good to hear the splines don't wear out. If I hear it again I will pull off the front and see if I can hold the tranny from oscillating. An I will be careful to only try this at the beginning of the agitation cycle.
Yeah, it could be temperature related since the grease thins out with higher temps and provides less cushioning. I'm wondering if worn splines on the brake package may be contributing to the problem.
I'd start with searching for the thickest possible grease you can get your hands on and try that out first. It's the cheapest route.
Also, confirm you are not hearing another noise during the spin cycle. A worn tub bearing or loose tub to brace bolts will cause a knocking sound during the spin cycle. Dry or worn damper pads can do that too. Don't overlook the simple things either like an unlevel machine. On a very unbalanced spin cycle, the bleach hose can bang against the cabinet and cause a knocking sound. I've also had the pressure switch hose in the right rear do that too, especially if it isn't place in the provided clamp.
I'd start with searching for the thickest possible grease you can get your hands on and try that out first. It's the cheapest route.
Also, confirm you are not hearing another noise during the spin cycle. A worn tub bearing or loose tub to brace bolts will cause a knocking sound during the spin cycle. Dry or worn damper pads can do that too. Don't overlook the simple things either like an unlevel machine. On a very unbalanced spin cycle, the bleach hose can bang against the cabinet and cause a knocking sound. I've also had the pressure switch hose in the right rear do that too, especially if it isn't place in the provided clamp.
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