Maytag Washer Model A702 - parts needed

[64maytag]

Hi all,
Hopefully somebody out there has some ideas on where I can find parts for a vintage Maytag Model YA702 (a/k/a Model A702) clothes washer. It had been working hard until a couple of years ago when it started to spit oil all over the floor. Called Maytag and they said keep using it until it does not go any more (what an answer). That problem I could deal with but then the inside fill hose broke and none of the regular supply stores could locate a replacement. Then recently the dial that controls the wash cycle must have been stripped by someone who used the washer and did not know about the push in & pull out function to start & stop. So....I was wondering where I could get 1) a schematic of the parts 2) a fill hose alternative and most importantly the gear component of the washer's dial. The dial is in like new shape as is most of the washer (except for the parts mentioned). Any help would be most appreciated since they don't build them like they used to.

 

[qsd-dan]

First of all, we need pics!!

"It had been working hard until a couple of years ago when it started to spit oil all over the floor."

That would be the famous lower o-ring seal in the transmission. It's a common issue on Maytag washers of this age. The o-ring only cost .75 cents, but you gotta tear down the entire machine, take apart the trans, remove the gearing, and then fish out the o-ring (if it's still even there). Very doable, just time consuming. You'll need new parts such as a stem seal kit, tub bearing, tub bolts, transmission gasket, tub cover seal, probably new belts and hoses, ect. I'm currently in the middle of a full restoration on my A702.

"Called Maytag and they said keep using it until it does not go any more (what an answer)."

That's a good way to fry the transmission!

"That problem I could deal with but then the inside fill hose broke and none of the regular supply stores could locate a replacement."

If it's just the rubber hose (not the metal injector), that won't be a problem to fabricate if the original isn't available. Tomorrow, I'll take a look at my microfiche slides and see what I can come up with for a replacement. I know a few sites that still carry this old stuff.

The gear component of the washers dial is the timer. If it isn't working correctly, you'll need a new timer. The good news is that I was able to pick up a new timer last year for my A702. The bad news is that these old parts are QUICKLY disappearing since Whirlpool took over Maytag and most part stores are simply throwing these old parts in the trash. If you can get a hold of a new timer, DO IT NOW!!! 5 years from now, it'll be impossible to locate one.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/TD/ARCHIVE/VINTAGE/2008/18227x14.htm

 

[64maytag]

Maytag Washer Model A702 - parts needed

Thanks much for the info qsd-dan. I will definitely get some pictures posted soon. Sounds like a long (but doable) job for the O ring seal. I believe it is just the rubber hose and not the injector that needs replacement. My brother-in-law jury rigged a hose but the clamp keeps hitting on the side on the spin cycle so that needs to come off. Glad to hear that I should be able to get one. I heard that the timer might be replaced with a similar part for model A806S but not sure if that actually will work (anything is worth a try). I appreciate you looking into some web sites for me. Right now the closest I have been able to find is a part on repairclinic.com. They recommended the part that I included the link to.

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2947&PPStack=1

 

[qsd-dan]

The repair clinic part you post was a timer knob for a 1989-94(?) Maytag washer. Is your problem the knob?

I can scan and post the original documentation of a complete tear down and build up for this period machine. The only special tools you need are the spanner wrench and the brake tool. Spanner wrench is cheap. The brake tool is somewhat expensive (of course "expensive" is subjective to most people). Usually a good parts store will have the brake tool on hand for rental.

You can usually find the spanner wrench for about $10. Here what they look like.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tub-Spanner-Wre...0?hash=item3ef5455e8b&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

 

[qsd-dan]

Brake Tool

http://www.apwagner.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4147

 

[bajaespuma]

There's a beautiful 702 set available here in Trumbull, CT. Maybe they'll consider splitting them up.

http://newhaven.craigslist.org/hsh/1221266922.html

 

[qsd-dan]

There's a beautiful 702 set available here in Trumbull,

That's a 712.

This is a 702

 

[qsd-dan]

the inside fill hose broke

Is this the hose you're talking about?

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Maytag/Maytag/206154/New.aspx

 

[qsd-dan]

Timer

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Maytag/Maytag/202774/New.aspx

 

[64maytag]

A great big THANKS!

qsd-dan, yeah the part that repairclinic.com pointed me too was a bit different from the orginal part. Good catch on that one and thanks for the link on the new site for the parts. Yes indeed, that was the fill hose I was talking about so it should do the trick. The problem with the timer is that someone stripped the gears. Instead of pushing in the knob and then selecting the wash type and pulling out, they must have forced the knob into positon. I had a similar issue with a Whirlpool Microwave/Range combo. The microwave had a push in timer knod with gears instead of the normal microwave button. I had a room mate who could not reach the microwave and kept on stripping gears. I went through about three of those!

Yes, if you could scan any of the original documents that you may have I will be indebted to you!

 

[64maytag]

bajaespuma, thanks but qsd-dan is correct. That is not an A702 but thanks for the info and suggestion anyway! If you do come across someone selling an A702 please let me know.

PS - by the way, until I get my old Maytag fixed I was forced to buy a Whirlpool. Honestly, the way they make these things these days is nothing more than planned obsolesense. In other words, spend $500 today and hope it lasts three! Don't get me wrong, the washer is fine but not as quiet as the old Maytag!

 

[qsd-dan]

Timer

Keep the old timer for parts such as the timer motor and escapement. These parts will be impossible to find 5 years from now.

I'll scan and post the procedures Wednesday or Thursday. There were some changes made (for the better) so I'll be jumping back and forth with the scans between two different era's of manuals.

 

[qsd-dan]

Scans

I just finished scanning from 4 different manuals. Wow, what a task!! I'll post them tomorrow when I can get all of the parts and part #'s that you'll need together.

 

[64maytag]

Manuals

Thanks again qsd-dan. This will be a life saver, or better put a vintage Maytag saver!

 

[qsd-dan]

Sorry for the delay; I ended having to backup 250 gigs of info and reformat my hardrive.

This will be a conglomeration of 4 different manuals. I'm going to first post the manual that is from the era of your machine. However, you'll soon find out that the info is very limited, with limited pics. I'll post info from the newer manuals as I go along.

 

[qsd-dan]

First things first

How to remove the front cover. Much more difficult on the these older machine than the 1966 and newer ones. Ignore the other info.

 

[qsd-dan]

Tub Cover Removal

It's best to tag and remove all wires going to the motor, remove the entire water valve bolts (reinstall the screws in the holes so you don't lose them) and remove the entire top panel with the water valve and console.

Remove rubber injector hose. Remove the tub cover by loosening the bolts of the metal band. You may need to soak the bolts in a penetrating fluid for a few minutes. Remove metal band and seal. Remove tub cover. Keep tabs on the tub light lens on the tub cover. They like to fall out. Those lenses are NLA!!

The fun part. Remove the agitator by reach underneath pulling up. If it has never been removed, it will be a very time consuming project. The best approach is to remove the lint filter, hang the drain hose up so water can't escape the tub, and pour a big pot of boiling hot water down the middle of the agitator. Let it sit for a while, put some rubber gloves on, and keep rocking the agitator back and forth while pulling upward. It'll eventually come out.

 

[qsd-dan]

Seal Removal

Get out the spanner wrench, line up the notches, and firmly push down to seat the wrench on the nut. Use a hammer and bang the clamping nut clockwise. Be careful not to hit the inner basket. Pack towels around the basket to prevent chipping. WARNING!! Clamping nut has left hand threads!!

Remove inner wash tub.

 

[qsd-dan]

More seal info

 

[qsd-dan]

New stem seal part # is 22204012. The new seal design is a one piece design and is GARBAGE!! To replicate the old design, purchase and use Y04298, grease it and install. Pics from later manuals that I will post will clear this up.

 

[qsd-dan]

Remove all hoses going to the outer tub. Loosen and remove the 3 tub bolts. Remove outer tub. You will need new tub bolts and new lead washers during re-assembly. Tub bolt part #200744 3 qty. Lead washer 211100 3qty.

Tub bearing removal and installation. The new design bearing does not allow you peal back the seal and saturate it will turbine oil. Just lube the wearing surfaces with turbine oil.

 

[qsd-dan]

More tub bearing installation & Trans disassembly

Once the outer tub is removed, lift the transmission straight up out of the brake package.

Loosen all bolts, except the counter weight bolts, use a thin putty knife and hammer and go along the transmission seal. Remove the upper housing.

Here's something that's highly overlooked, even in this community. The upper trans housing needs to be dissembled and cleaned! The trans oil on the shaft turns to thick goo and is one of the reasons why some of these older units have a slow agitation problem. The shaft will also sometimes have rust on it.

There also a wicking in there that need to e re-lubed, My wicking was completely deteriorated. The wicking was eliminated in later transmissions so I didn't bother replacing it. The bearings and shaft still need to be cleaned and relubed with Maytag transmission oil.

Driving the groove pin out of the collar was a royal PITA. I ended up taking it to a machine shop and they pressed it out. I also had some rust where the wicking once resided. If you have the same issue, just lightly sand the rust off of the shaft. Squeaky clean everything, lube, and re-assemble. You'll probably need a new groove pin. Part # for a new pin is 210183.

 

[qsd-dan]

Lower transmission component removal. Check your fiber pinion gear! Mine had cracks everywhere!! A new fiber pinion gear is only $4.20, so I highly recommend purchasing a new one regardless. These parts aren't going to hang around much longer.

Also, check for any wear on the bronze and steel clutch washers! I had grooves in mine so they both got replaced. When reassembling, make sure both bronze and steel clutch washers are clean. Even something as small as a human hair will prevent the machine from running. They must be spotless!!!! Make sure to arrange the washers in correct order during assembly.

O-ring removal and replacement (finally!!) begins at the end of this page.

 

[qsd-dan]

O-ring replacement continued.

 

[qsd-dan]

Kinda vague, huh? That's why I'll post most of this info from the newer manuals. Just about all of the procedures are the same on the newer machines. I'll point out the areas you need to look out for.

 

[qsd-dan]

Here we go again!!

Stem seal replacement. New stem seal will have a Torx head instead of Allen. I hate torx, so I reused the Allen set screw.

 

[qsd-dan]

More seal fun

 

[qsd-dan]

More seal and outer tub removal.

New stem seal will come with a torx head set screw. Older set screws are Allen head.

You'll see Y0A4298 seal in the pic. Grease this seal with bearing grease, or center grease seal if you have any, and stuff in the cheap ass new seal hole.

 

[qsd-dan]

Tub bolts and bearing removal/installation.

 

[qsd-dan]

Exploded view