I have ventured onto this site countless times as I recently purchased an old Maytag Wringer Washer that is mid-to-late 1960's and have given it a complete overhaul= paint, accessories, castors, etc... I wanted to start a new thread to give tips not only I have found, been given, but also discovered.
1) If you have an opportunity to purchase an old Maytag wringer, do not even consider purchasing one unless it is a Model E - Master; it is square and has an aluminum tub. Machine's before the 1940 Model E, do not hold as much, nor is the gyration (agitation) as thorough, nor do the tubs hold as much.
2) Around the early-to-mid-1970's (possibly a bit earlier), Maytag switch from making the tubs from cast aluminum to spun aluminum; the latter is much cheaper, oxidizes much faster and pits easier. Underneath the lid near the lower hinge, it will say most of the time if it is cast aluminum or not. Only buy if it is cast aluminum, as you will regret it if is not. Any Model N or J tubs are porcelain, and over time, it WILL chip, and without doubt rust due to harsh metallics such as zippers scrapping the tub when gyrating. Cracking is also possible.
3) Mid-1940's, Maytag abandoned their aluminum cast gyrators (agitators) and switched first to black bakelite, then red plastic in the mid-1950's, and finally, the a more heavy duty flexible turquoise-colored plastic in January, 1966. The final turquoise although the best out of all three was made of polypropylene, but - unlike the black and red plastic, which were prone to breaking - the polypropylene gyrator will start shedding and fraying, which buffing the plastic with a Brillo pad or very fine steel wool works, but is a pain. Seek an aluminum gyrator. Makes sure the shaft is lubricated well or it will adhere itself and freeze to the post.
4) When old Maytag wringer washers are purchased, often the castors are frozen stiff and/or the wheel are so worn the grout is uneven. You can purchase for about $70 dollars after-market castors, as they are three-times the quality.
5) If you ever run across a Model E with the lettering "LT" at the end, this was a very rare version of the master which included a timer in the bottom-right corner of the machine. It was meant to be used to set the gyrator for a maximum of 15 minutes and then it would ring loud and pull the gyrator lever back inside, will the machine would still remain "ON". While this was deemed to be convenient at first, its downfall is you needed the timer set to operate the wringer, if you needed longer than 15 minutes, the wringer would shut off even while in mid-way of possibly squeezing out a garment. You would have to reach down and turn the timer dial again. Also, the wringer had its problems with the feature of tapping the release bar to set the mechanism back to neutral; fraught with problems on both the timer and wringer, the model feature was eliminated by the late 1950's.
6) The often most either avoided and/or seldomly-discussed topic of Maytag Wringers is where the ON/OFF switch is. As all eventually find out, the 1/4-hp motor is automatically turned on when the plug is inserted into any outlet. First of all, if you have an older 1/4-hp motor, upgrade to later model which was used from the early-1960's until they were discontinued in 1983 as the motors are more efficient as far as electricity-usage. Make sure if the original cord is not present (or even if it is) that is a three-prong ground plug. As far as no on-and-off switch, making one just underneath the gyrator lever is very important. Many Maytag owners will experience over time arcing on one of the prongs of their motor plug. Unlike smaller appliances such as a coffee pot, a motor draws much more when first plugged in; hence the arcing on contact of the plug. It will continue to put unnecessary force and wear on both the motor and which ever wall socket you continually use; in end, it can cause your outlet to need to be replaced or blow your motor. Purchase a waterproof toggle switch, rated for 20AMPS, and drill a small hole below the gyrator lever, and follow correctly how to wire the existence motor cord (which will detach from the motor) and purchase separate wiring for the toggle switch and rewire; if help is needed, visit your local hardware or electric service center for an easy diagram to show you how. I will not post how as I shaunt wish to be responsible for one misunderstanding my directive; I do assure, it is very easy.
For any parts such as gyrators, rubber lid or tub bumpers, castors, and motors, contact Philip Hornyak at Phil's Maytag:
7728 County Rd., 129
Ovid, NY 14521
[email protected]
Shop #: (607) 869-2263
Cell #: (315) 246-5518
Note: He is very hard of hearing, his wife usually answers and will tell you e-mail is best! Only call if you have sent an e-mail and he has not replied by a few days.
Waterproof toggle switches rated for 20AMPS may be purchased at local hardware or electric servicing outfits. Avoid ones made in China, if possible. As for the toggle switch cover, this is what I found works both well with the design of the Maytag itself and is period-appropriate:
http://vintagewireandsupply.com/switch-cover-103-antique-nickel/
Any questions? E-mail me: [email protected]
Aaron
1) If you have an opportunity to purchase an old Maytag wringer, do not even consider purchasing one unless it is a Model E - Master; it is square and has an aluminum tub. Machine's before the 1940 Model E, do not hold as much, nor is the gyration (agitation) as thorough, nor do the tubs hold as much.
2) Around the early-to-mid-1970's (possibly a bit earlier), Maytag switch from making the tubs from cast aluminum to spun aluminum; the latter is much cheaper, oxidizes much faster and pits easier. Underneath the lid near the lower hinge, it will say most of the time if it is cast aluminum or not. Only buy if it is cast aluminum, as you will regret it if is not. Any Model N or J tubs are porcelain, and over time, it WILL chip, and without doubt rust due to harsh metallics such as zippers scrapping the tub when gyrating. Cracking is also possible.
3) Mid-1940's, Maytag abandoned their aluminum cast gyrators (agitators) and switched first to black bakelite, then red plastic in the mid-1950's, and finally, the a more heavy duty flexible turquoise-colored plastic in January, 1966. The final turquoise although the best out of all three was made of polypropylene, but - unlike the black and red plastic, which were prone to breaking - the polypropylene gyrator will start shedding and fraying, which buffing the plastic with a Brillo pad or very fine steel wool works, but is a pain. Seek an aluminum gyrator. Makes sure the shaft is lubricated well or it will adhere itself and freeze to the post.
4) When old Maytag wringer washers are purchased, often the castors are frozen stiff and/or the wheel are so worn the grout is uneven. You can purchase for about $70 dollars after-market castors, as they are three-times the quality.
5) If you ever run across a Model E with the lettering "LT" at the end, this was a very rare version of the master which included a timer in the bottom-right corner of the machine. It was meant to be used to set the gyrator for a maximum of 15 minutes and then it would ring loud and pull the gyrator lever back inside, will the machine would still remain "ON". While this was deemed to be convenient at first, its downfall is you needed the timer set to operate the wringer, if you needed longer than 15 minutes, the wringer would shut off even while in mid-way of possibly squeezing out a garment. You would have to reach down and turn the timer dial again. Also, the wringer had its problems with the feature of tapping the release bar to set the mechanism back to neutral; fraught with problems on both the timer and wringer, the model feature was eliminated by the late 1950's.
6) The often most either avoided and/or seldomly-discussed topic of Maytag Wringers is where the ON/OFF switch is. As all eventually find out, the 1/4-hp motor is automatically turned on when the plug is inserted into any outlet. First of all, if you have an older 1/4-hp motor, upgrade to later model which was used from the early-1960's until they were discontinued in 1983 as the motors are more efficient as far as electricity-usage. Make sure if the original cord is not present (or even if it is) that is a three-prong ground plug. As far as no on-and-off switch, making one just underneath the gyrator lever is very important. Many Maytag owners will experience over time arcing on one of the prongs of their motor plug. Unlike smaller appliances such as a coffee pot, a motor draws much more when first plugged in; hence the arcing on contact of the plug. It will continue to put unnecessary force and wear on both the motor and which ever wall socket you continually use; in end, it can cause your outlet to need to be replaced or blow your motor. Purchase a waterproof toggle switch, rated for 20AMPS, and drill a small hole below the gyrator lever, and follow correctly how to wire the existence motor cord (which will detach from the motor) and purchase separate wiring for the toggle switch and rewire; if help is needed, visit your local hardware or electric service center for an easy diagram to show you how. I will not post how as I shaunt wish to be responsible for one misunderstanding my directive; I do assure, it is very easy.
For any parts such as gyrators, rubber lid or tub bumpers, castors, and motors, contact Philip Hornyak at Phil's Maytag:
7728 County Rd., 129
Ovid, NY 14521
[email protected]
Shop #: (607) 869-2263
Cell #: (315) 246-5518
Note: He is very hard of hearing, his wife usually answers and will tell you e-mail is best! Only call if you have sent an e-mail and he has not replied by a few days.
Waterproof toggle switches rated for 20AMPS may be purchased at local hardware or electric servicing outfits. Avoid ones made in China, if possible. As for the toggle switch cover, this is what I found works both well with the design of the Maytag itself and is period-appropriate:
http://vintagewireandsupply.com/switch-cover-103-antique-nickel/
Any questions? E-mail me: [email protected]
Aaron
