Miele rotary iron owners

[richnz]

Hello,

I have a rotary iron and the end result of ironing some items is poor. Sheets can often gather or end up with a less than desirable finish.
I was wondering if it is because the roller is as hard as a rock.

The machine has a foam wrapped steel tube and on top of that is a thin cotton cover (Non genuine??)

Please let me know if you get the results you expect (Perfection?) and what covers your roller.
Looking on ebay at other machines they look to have quite plush covers.

My ironing board is quite soft to the touch and this is not.

Regards

Richard

http://https//photos.app.goo.gl/1NmkAKs6x2kAZnDaA

 

[launderess]

You Rang?

Yes, the roller padding and cover are as they should be; by nature the padding should be firm (or hard if you like). Same as with an ironing board/table; you want a firm surface (but not too much so)which gives a better finish.

Roller covers for rotary ironers either domestic or commercial generally aren't "plush" at all. Just lengths of heavy cotton duck or muslin. Higher quality covers are available made from linen or Nomex.

In any event diameter and length of roller normally determine how times a cover "wraps" around covering the under padding.

Padding for rotary ironers once was same as ironing boards; knitted cotton.
Looks like this: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-ironrite-automatic-ironer-526344465

Today both for commercial some domestic there other choices; needle punch polyester felt, stainless steel. etc...

Which Miele rotary iron do you have?

Cannot tell exactly from linked photo, but *think* that the cover and padding are original Miele. Say this for one because few home sewers have an overlock/serger capable of doing such stitching. Yes, know some do, but not all.

If you have one of the newer Miele rotary ironers (900 series) have heard quality of covers and padding changed. Some got quite indignant over paying Miele's prices for a bit of cloth they could have run up themselves.

As for your ironing quality issues; it will take some time before getting things down pat. Learning how moist things must be, how to smooth as you go and so forth.

Like modern hand irons, these new rotary ironers do not get hot as things of old. Thus things that are too moist must be fed at reduced speed, and or sent through twice or even thrice to get good results.

 

[richnz]

I see!

Its a B895D which was bought for a song.
The steam function causes the fuse to blow but if you don't turn on the steam then there is no issue.

I had seen this beauty
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Miele-Pr...=miele+hm+&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

and was looking at the padded roll thinking "that looks plush".

I saw this too
https://www.mangelwaren.de/Original-Aramid-needle-felt-cloth-for-Miele-HM-HM-16-83-/-16-80-D

but, "ahem", not at that price.

This video, I guess, displays the ultimate finish and not the novice result.



I will try and see what happens if the laundry is more damp.

The smock she is wearing is a thing of beauty.
Regards

Richard

 

[michaelman2]

Check the shoe for melted fuseables

Richnz, check the shoe of the ironer to make sure there is nothing melted and stuck to the metal.

When you mentioned that sheets “gather” it made me wonder if a synthetic fiber had melted and stuck to the shoe causing the sheet to stick and gather.

Someone could have ironed a tag or a fabric that may have included a synthetic fiber and this creates a problem on the sole plate on an iron as well as an ironer. It creates that dragging and sticking problem.

I know on my Ironrite I periodically use Faultless Iron Cleaner and it completely removes the problem. I always remove some debris even when it is not visible on the shoe.

Just a thought....

 

[launderess]

Have never used the steam function on either of my Pfaff

Ironers. Well the older and larger unit just a few times when first arrived. Pulls too much power (over 3kW) when combined with heating the shoe, so just go with properly dampened laundry.

Most commercial ironers by and large do same; iron dampened laundry dry. Far less energy use than also having to generate steam to dampen the washing. Some industrial ironers do use steam, but for heating the chest.

Don't know which padding you have, but perhaps search eBay (widen to international) and look for older replacement covers and padding that are more sturdy. Maybe previous owner replaced with whatever new was on offer from Miele.

You want a firm surface because unlike hand ironing main way of exerting required pressure(which keeps washing pressed against shoe) is by roller padding/covering.

If things are too soft the washing will give and "sink" into the padding. This is not good because contact with shoe lessens which in turn will give a bad result.

To some extent you want a bit of plush because it will protect buttons and embroideries. Older model ironers advised Madame to place terry toweling on roller when doing such things to give a softer surface for such things.

In general however have not found ironers good for doing embroidered work regardless. The best of them won't damage, but the overall results are lacking IMHO when compared to handwork.

 

[launderess]

Aramid ='s Nomex

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aramid

As one stated commercial/industrial ironers have long moved over to Nomex or other synthetic fibers instead of cotton canvas, duck, or muslin. This and or pure linen for roller covers.

Nomex does not scorch, can withstand far higher temps than linen or cotton, and does not absorb moisture like natural fibers. This is important for ironers because if the roller cover and or padding become too damp it produces poor finish.

For domestic ironers with only the one roll it is vitally important things not get too damp.

The above reasons are also why commercial (and some domestic) ironers have long moved over to polyester needle felt padding. In fact most better ironing board padding is often made from this material.

 

[michaelman2]

Damp Dry or Ironer Dry

Richard, many dryers have a “damp dry” or “ironer” setting that will leave the garment or linen at the ideal dampness in which to iron. Scroll up to my post and be sure you check for the clean shoe. I have several ironers, and the shoe, if not completely free of debris, will cause a problem. Your ironer has a speed control and I would also reduce the speed in which you feed the garment or linen.

 

[richnz]

Very useful information, thank you

I checked the iron part and there is evidence of the previous owner ironing something hard. When I run my finger across it feels quite smooth. More of a visual scratch than a deep scratch. I will buy some iron cleaner. I have tried a plastic scouring pad which I have used successfully on my Laurastar iron to clean the oxidised soleplate. There is a "clutch" at the back which can be released to widen the gap.

Here are some photos of the iron.
The line across the iron face is where the steam would come.
Its a sunny winters day here in New Zealand.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d83CN61iGTvbP3J3A
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mRLrfqzoKTgBBeBu6

New photo · Friday, Jul 20, 2018 📸

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[launderess]

Am not seeing any sort of damage to soleplate that might cause your ironing to stick or whatever.

Those marks were likely caused by previous owners sending through things with closings (buttons, zippers, etc...) face up instead of down where they would have depressed into the padding.

This and or the marks were simply caused by something coming into contact with the ironer shoe.

Long as you're not feeling any sort of rough edge or scratches, soleplate is fine IMHO.

 

[launderess]

Mangelwaren

One sees their business has changed slightly but also grown. Far more modern Miele ironer offerings.

Have known Mangelwaren of old; large part of their business once was (and still may be) going round Germany and other parts of Europe and purchasing old Heissmangels (house mangels, or ironers if you will). Providing restoration and or refurbishment as necessary, marking the units up, then selling them on.

For various reasons Germany was *big* on mangles both heated and or cold. Fast forward to modern times many homes have the things lying about spare that they want gone. Sort of like what you see here in the States with all those old Ironrite, Bendix, and other ironers.

 

[michaelman2]

Richnz,

I think you are smart to clean the shoe. As I mentioned above, the problem may not be visible to the eye and especially difficult for one to ascertain from a photo.

If there are indentations in this steel, something besides a button would have created that problem against a hard metal ironer shoe. A metal zipper could possibly scratch the shoe but not gouge it.

Try the iron cleaner on the shoe and you will notice the product also will “wax” the shoe as well. Many commercial ironers employ a wax to keep fabrics moving smoothly across the shoe.

 

[iej]

European vs US versions

I was just looking on Miele Ireland and Miele USA's websites and it seems the rotary ironers are quite different specifications in terms of power output.

The version sold here is B 995 D is a 2800-3000W machine running on 230V 50Hz, which is just at the limit of a standard 13amp fused plug here, and well under the limit of a 16amp continental European outlet.

The US/Canada version B 990 seems to operate on 120V with a standard NEMA 15amp plug, so I assume It's probably 1440W as that's the maximum recommended load for continuous draw on those circuits.

 

[foraloysius]

The version in the NL of the B995D is 3.5 kw according to the Dutch Miele site, the B990 3.1 kw

 

[launderess]

Like washing machines

Miele only sells 120v powered ironers in USA now, no more 220v or whatever.

Once you go down the 115v at 15amp route yes, you're limited to around 1400 or so watts.

That being said with all ironing equipment temperature of soleplate or whatever surface is more a function of thermostat settings than current.

Vintage ironers and irons once sold in USA could (and did) reach very high temperatures on just 115v or 120v and 15amp circuits.

My ancient Simplex ironer will get hot enough to scorch linen on contact if you leave it heating long enough. Had a Thor "Glaidiron" that would also burn fabric if you set it too high.

Watts are watts; and the amount of power needed to or for heating is same regardless of 120v, 230v-240v, etc.... What does change is higher voltage will get you there faster and allow for quicker recovery. When ironing this is important because soon as soleplate of ironer or iron meets fabric it will cool. More damp fabric is faster things will cool and thermostat will need to kick on to bring things back up to proper temp.

This is one reason why many domestic ironers have rollers that move comparatively slowly against industrial versions. Having only the one roller, and often limited heating capacity it takes longer to evaporate the moisture in washing. This and or as mentioned things have to be sent through more than once to achieve proper finish.

 

[iej]

@foraloysius

The reason for that lower wattage in this market is the type of plugs used in the UK and Ireland, rather than the voltage.

BS1363 plugs, the rectangular shaped pins types are maximum rated at 13 amps and contain an internal fuse in the plug top itself. So, 2990W at 230V is absolute maximum. Historically Ireland used 220V and Britain used 240V, resistance loads i.e. heaters are designed to run at a particular voltage and will drop output proportionally to the voltage applied. I suspect the wattage calculations are actually at 250V, as there's no way you can connect a 3000W load at 230V on a UK plug, it would blow the fuse. The real world wattage of those appliances is more like 2800W

European CEE 7 sockets are rated at 16amps, so at 230V that is 3680 Watts.

To use that ironer in Ireland or Britain, you would have to use an industrial plug or hardwire it.

Technically speaking, Ireland still recognises Schuko (CEE 7) as Irish standard IS 180. We used to use the plugs and sockets as Germany until the 1960s, but then harmonised with what was then the "new" British standard BS1363 which replaced a whole range of older, and very confusing, round-pin plugs. Officially, Ireland used "Schuko" but unofficially a lot of the old UK systems had also been used here, and converting to a totally incompatible square-pin plug was seen as a way of eliminating dangerous old semi-intercopatable standards.

AFAIK the Danish plug/socket system is rated at 13amps too and Switzerland is generally rated at only 10amps which limits you to 2300W unless you special heavy duty plugs.

The 10/16A rating you see on old Schuko plugs actually refers to where they were used with DC systems, at 10amps or AC at 16amps.

 

[foraloysius]

Yes, I know. The Swiss get indeed a 2.2 kw Miele rotary ironer.

Now to return to the problem of the OP that the fuse blows when using the steam function. That B995D was probably sold in Germany, the NL or so. When the steam function is turned on, the machine probably draws a tad more than the Australian system (230V, 15 Amps) can handle.

 

[launderess]

Ironing damp laundry dry gives better results IMHO, so have rarely bothered with steam function on either of my Pfaff ironers. That and not doing so saves quite a lot of energy.

 

[iej]

NZ & Australian socket outlets come in 10 amp or 15amp versions, with 10amp being the default option.
The 10amp plugs fit both types of socket, but the limitations of wattage are the same as Switzerland.

From what I remember, the 15 amp version tended to only be used for heavy appliances like air conditioning units and so on.

There's also a 20 and 32amp version that uses the same shape pins used for ovens and so on.

 

[foraloysius]

In this case it is probably 15 Amps, otherwise the fuse would blow too without using the steam function. Or this must be a rare B995D that was made for 10 Amps - 230V, but AFAIK those don't exist.