Miele USA W1's Water Inlet Error After Prewash

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derrick352

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May 3, 2021
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Be warned that use of prewash may result in a water inlet error and end the cycle. Those with W1's please test and report back on results. It will happen after prewash drain and start of wash fill. Others reporting same issue. Error only happens in this situation. Miele not cooperating PERIOD!
 
Miele Appliances In The US

Are like buying a Mercedes Benz with no decent service organization, can be a big waste of money along with lots of frustration, the good news is they are not as expensive as a MB so the loss will not be as bad when you buy another appliance.

 

The number of Miele DWs, W&Ds we see on the scrap pile every month is amazing considering how small a % of the market they have in the US.

 

John  L.
 
that sounds terrible, my Miele most certainly doesn't do that on the Prewash cycle, it's strange to think that the W1 range that launched in 2013 still hasn't ironed out the programming bugs and that makes me increasingly wary about them, especially in the long term, it just makes my blood boil because I've always seen Miele as such a reputable brand and for them to do that is just unacceptable for the price. :(
 
No issue here.

 

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">I don't use the PreWash often instead I use the Soak fairly often.  So, I am running a load now including a PreWash.  It went directly into the Main Wash after the PreWash drain with no issue.  It's finishing the cycle now and I'll report back if there are any other issues but so far, so good.</span>

chachp-2021051504511804325_1.png
 
Water inlet issue

Have similar story running over here but with the cool down instead of my pre wash.

Miele pulled my line of models a couple of weeks ago.

Had a technician in my home with no hope.
He updated the machines firmware but no change.

Miele will help you sooner or later.

Calling a technician is the only option there.

Easiest as well to have a video handy.
 
Pretty certain these issues occur on a new revision of these machines.

The W1 machines used to all have a water diverter driven by a motor, similar to the W3000 series.

My machine most certainly does not.

2 things you notice:
1) Usually, with water diverter, when switching from one chamber to another, there is a pause and you here the geared motor humming, clicking as it turns through the positions.
Here, on my machine, there is no noise and instant switching.
2) The door jet used to have its own position on the diverter, so no water would run through the dispenser when water is patched to it.
On mine, prewash and door jet are running always at the same time. Water pressure is really low for the door jet as a result.

Am most certain that was done as a cost cutting measure and most certain that system uses the typical 2 valve setup (water is diverted by the 2 jets deflecting each other to the third chamber).

However that still shows up as a water diverter to the service program.

So I guess they just adapted the water diverter programming for that new setup.

And they did good.
Except for some special circumstances.

I guess in the US they messed up the hot water feeding after a prewash.
Over here they messed up the cool down programming option.
 
Define "cooperation" from Miele

Miele USA no longer provides any sort of tech support or assistance with diagnosing issues via telephone or email. Only option is to book a call out appointment for service.

Previously Miele USA tech support offered all sorts of assistance via telephone or email. This included walking through various testing or other attempts to sort out what was wrong, and or even assistance in installing a part. This apparently all came to an end last year or maybe year before. This coincided with (IIRC) change of management at Miele USA which in turn lead to many changes down the line.

Found this out partially from news media and also while attempting to get information on replacing timer/programmer on my Miele. Tech support now seems to be nothing more than persons (who may be offshore) reading from scripts and they can only book service calls. When inquired as to why Miele stopped offering tech support via telephone response was "it caused more trouble than it was worth..."
 
As far as I know, there are no new models of W1 being sold in the USA yet, but perhaps the WB 020 was released after the 060, 660, and 860. Derrick, what model W1 machine is having this issue?

On my machine during the rinses, except the last rinse when two shots of water are sent through the FS dispenser, the water runs down the door glass, but if you pull the dispenser tray completely out and look in the back of the compartment you can see water running down from the top into a porthole as well. I was thinking this meant that the washer was filling in the bottom of the drum as well from across the door, but I cannot confirm that. On some first rinses in some cycles, all of the water enters via the bottom and none across the door. Don't know why.

I use a prewash on white items every wash day but cannot remember hearing the diverter valve moving between the prewash and wash - a thing I don't pay attention to but next time I'll be sure to listen for it.
 
Pre-wash?

Why do you use it routinely on every white cycle? Or maybe I shouldn't ask? *LOL*

Since my two AEG washers are cold fill don't bother with pre-wash unless have something really heavily soiled and want bulk of muck removed before main wash. Otherwise find normal wash cycles (long as they are) perfectly adequate.
 
Others on the Houzz Laundry Room Forum seem to have this issue with the water inlet error after the prewash and start of wash portion. I am not a member there, may have to find out more and subscribe to forum.

It appears that reports are from USA W1's except the Classic. Not in great numbers but carbon copy issue. I have the 060. Prewash unusable.
 
Thanks, Derrick, I'll check the forum and read other experiences of the problem. I generally use a prewash when washing whites because I tend to nick myself when shaving resulting in blood spots, plus I wear tight white underwear. The prewash is a cold fill so I figure that is good for protein stains and blood. So far nothing has become a set-in stain.
 
@Jerrod

 

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">I am happy to hear the PreWash comes in as cold.  Do you know what temperature the machine uses on the Soak cycle?  I use that more often but always wondered what temp it used.  I may have to start using the PreWash with Extra White on my whites instead of the Extra White with a Soak.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">For years I had a Bosch machine that had an option called Power Wash and what that did was bring in cold water and then gradually raise the temperature slowly to the selected temperature.  I liked that cycle for stains that remove better in cold but I don't want to do an entire cold water wash.</span>
 
EU machines heat the prewash to about 30C or 86F, but hot fill machines usually use plain cold for fill as well over here.

Soak is performed in plain cold over here IIRC.

Soak also uses the wool-equivalent drum rhythm I think, pre-wash uses a normal tumble pattern.
Soak over here also does not drain after soaking, prewash drains and does a short spin.

Manuals suggest to use Soak for stubborn stains.
Older manuals mentioned that it would be more economical.

Prewash was ment for large amounts of soil (sand, grit, such).

Soak could be adjusted from 30min up to 2h.

Nowadays you often only have Pre-wash over here, but you can extend the Pre-wash by up to 36min in 9min increments bringing the Pre-wash time up to about an hour, replacing Soak.
 
Thank you!

 

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Here the PreWash does drain and use fresh detergent for the wash and the time can be adjusted.  The Soak does not drain.  It goes directly into the Main Wash.  I can adjust the length of the Soak time up to six hours.  I have my Soak set for one hour which is what I was used to in the Bosch I had.  I like that the Miele goes directly into the Main Wash after the soak cycle.  In the Bosch, the Soak cycle was completely separate so when it was done I had to restart the washer with the wash cycle.</span>

chachp-2021051803101300885_1.jpg
 
Normal cycle

I've discovered that when selecting normal, the machine will go through prewash and advance without a hiccup. So far, Extra White and Sanitize throw a water inlet code on my 860. Will be calling Miele today and report what they say.
 
Add Laundry

Always get the Water Inlet error when attempting to Add laundry.
Got it frequently because there is air in our lines and had to go into menu and activate Low Water Pressure setting for it to stop cancelling the cycles.
 
I must have a good one!

 

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">I say this as I knock on wood, but I haven't had any of these issues.  Our PSI is around 75 last time I checked and I wonder how much that had to do with others having issues.</span>
 
Thanks for posts. Water pressure is not my issue. Miele knows there is a problem and has admitted to others there is a problem with the W1's. Customer service and tech support/dispatch obviously needs some major help here in the United States. Enough said.
 
I did a load of cotton summer shorts using the Wrinkle-Free cycle and decided to try the soak option. I selected Warm+ or 104F. The washer started to fill with hot water, then switched to cold. It took 1 or 2 more fills and turned the heater on for a bit. It tumbled slowly for a few minutes then started soaking, tumbling, and spraying periodically. No heater was on during the actual soaking period, but it turned on as soon as the wash started, and cycled on and off throughout the wash.

So for the soak, I guess the washer tries to start with a temperature close to the temperature you have selected for the wash even though there is no heater in use during most of the soak.
 
Thanks for the update

 

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">So it sounds like I need to do a PreWash if I want to start with cold and then work up to the selected temp.  This is good to know.  And when I think about it, I don't mind the idea that I get fresh water and detergent at the start of the wash.  Thank you.</span>
 
That would make sense.

My older Miele and many other European H-axis washers used their heaters to raise temp of pre-wash to at least 86F or 104F. They do this however obviously only if thermostat isn't satisfied either incoming water temp, and or that in tub isn't at or above whatever temp. When this Miele turns on or off heater there is a very audible "thunk", so can tell when it's engaged or turned off.

If a washer is both hot and cold fill then it makes sense to use a blend of tap water to get "warm" or whatever. If that cannot be achieved then heater kick in to top things off.

Both my AEG washers are cold fill only. If incoming water is warmer than what is programmed to be normal, and thus heating parameters get confused, these washers will subtract heating portion of cycle time (usually about ten minutes) from cycle.

Display will read "60 minutes" remaining, but soon as water drains and or filling begins for first rinse that changes to "50 minutes" or something.

On older Miele and other European washing machines with "rapid advance" mechanical timers it was suggested that once machine reached proper temp during heating portion of cycle (again listening for sound thermostat was switched off), one could move timer knob slightly and it would come out of heating portion of cycle into main. This was done to save time.....

Curious thing about those older washers is they would take on water if sensed water level had dropped, and use heater if necessary to bring things back up to temp. At least my AEG modern washers don't do this; once machine has moved out of fill portion of cycle that's all she wrote. They won't take on more water even if it's obvious load requires further saturation. What you'll get is a reading indicating over loading.
 
@chachp

In the winter when my water temperature is around 39F and I do a prewash the entire fill is in cold water. When the washer drains into my laundry sink the water is warm. It is not 104F but it feels like it might be between,95F and 100F. I have my machine plugged into a Kill-o-watt meter so I can look at the amps consumed in real-time and know when the heater is engaged.
 
@Jerrod

 

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">If I want to use a cycle that starts with cold water and then gradually heats the water the temp chosen which one would I use?  I wish I could find a document (as I'm sure many do) that explains what happens throughout each cycle.  It seems to be a closely guarded secret for some reason or maybe they think people don't care to know it.</span>
 
@chachp

You could go to settings and select cold fill. Keep in mind, the machine will continue doing full profile washes until you re-select hot fill for main wash again.
 
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