Miele W1065

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sudsmaster

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Thinking of buying a used Miele W1065 washer, said to be in great condition.

Anybody have any feedback on this model? As I understand it, it's an older version with mechanical timer and see-through window door. Supposed to be built like a tank, but without the sophisticated computer driven logic of the later Novitronic series.
 
Congratulations

Both of those washers are excellent machines. Parts shouldn't be a problem, but if they are (Laundress, this is for you, too), I live around the corner from the Miele repair center in Munich and am bouncing back and forth between the 'States and Munich a lot these days.
You do have to watch for scale and lime in these, by the way...those heating elements pile it on. I wouldn't use vinegar regularly, but citric acid to de-scale.
That dryer has a rear bearing which tends to wear a bit fast (for a Miele, that is), so if you hear unusual noises from the drum, get it replaced immediately or you could have some real fun.
Oh, just for the heck of it...how refreshing to see that even Miele refers to North American split phase as "two-phase". Tee-hee.
I remember that plug from our enormous window air-conditioner back in the early 1970's. The electrician really didn't like it...and exactly for that reason. We had to keep it, 'cause of the warranty, but the day the A/C was out of warranty, it got replaced with a 'dead' plug. There are several variations on 110v and '2-phase' (just teasing, O humourless ones) plugs in North America. If you have a proper 20Amp single-phase outlet, you will notice that the neutral (living dangerously here, O worshipers of the 2006 NEC) has the blade slot in both axis.
 
Thanks, Panthera.

Question: the 1918 works fine, but during the tumbling the machine gives off a low buzz during each tumble. It doesn't buzz at all during the spins (or not that I recall), so it's a bit strange. The 1065 doesn't buzz at all during tumbles or spins. It does have a very low hum during tumbles, but I figure that's normal motor sound.

Could the buzz be from worn brushes? Or is it coming from the tumble speed control?
 
not sure

The hmmm...hmmm...hmmm I am familiar with. A 'buzzing' sound is new to me. You might notice that the very powerful heating elements make noise between the tumbles. Could that be it? I have'nt heard this model in ten years or so. I suggest you ask the question in a new thread - bound to be lots of us with this machine still in use. I gave mine to my neighbour's son when he got married in 1999 - and it was still going when I left Munich in July.
The pump should sound forceful, but if there is any sort of grating sound then there could be a button or such in there. The filter is pretty lax about stuff like that.
A silly question, but the shipping bolts were all removed?
 
Tale of Two Mieles

By the way, whereas the 1918 came from a former half-way house, and the 1065 came from a spotless home in a fairly high rent suburb of SF, the inside story is a bit different.

The lint filter/coin trap for the 1918 was spotless. But the 1065... yeeccch! Pulled out a dime and a very corroded penny. Lots of crud came out of the drain tube, and there is an encrustation on the lower part of the filter housing that I didn't have time to tackle. Whereas the detergent tray for the 1918 was quite clean and fresh, that for the 1065 was quite grungy. OK, one machine is probably about five to ten years older than the other, but it wouldn't have hurt the owners of the 1065 to clean out the coin trap once in a while.

Think I will dose the 1065 with vinegar next time.

Oh, and Launderess - it appeared to me that ALL the rinses on the cottons cycle were deep. The water came up about 2 inches above the bottom of the door at each pause in the tumble.
 
Panthera:

I stated clearly in another post that my Miele W1070 read "2 phase" on the electric plate, but you said it was a "mistake".

Suds:

The W1065 is only "electronic" but not as much as the Novatronic. I hear no buzzing when my 1070 is washing or spinning. Mind you the pump makes enough noise to wake the dead at times, especially if one uses too much detergent and has froth.

The rinses on on my 1070 are the same wash level as either delicates or woolens, can't remember which. Know this because once in a effort to flush out some excess froth (from my days of using regular Tide w Bleach), moved the cycle knob over to either delicates or woolens when the machine was on final rinse, and it wouldn't add more water.

These machines are picky on a few fronts. If you set the wash cycle for "1/2 load", and decide after the machine has stopped filling you to change your mind, forget it; the washer will not add more water. Drains and fills are all controlled by time. While the machine will start tumbling in both wash and rinses if the correct water level is not reached, the draining time is based upon parameters set per cycle. That is if one is using the max water cycle (woolens) the draining is longer to allow all the water to be pumped out before the machine starts spinning. If you change the cycles or try to create a work around and set the machine to do something when there is too much water in the drum, machine will simply advance timer to the end of the spin cycle. You'll have to use the "drain" cycle to get any remaining water out, or set the machine back to another spin.

Wouldn't trade my 1070 for anything else, except perhaps a 1918. You'll have fun discovering all the neat things your machine can do.

L.
 
Suds:

These old Miele use lots of water! Wash levels are probably more than the 1918, and the rinses certianly are, IIRC.

Miele made some major changes between the 1065/1070 and the 1900 series:

Pre-wash became an option, instead part of the normal wash cycle for cottons, PP and delicates. Miele researched and found out newer washing actions along with modern detergents meant pre-washing was not always necessary, especially when starting from cold water.

Less rinse cycles, but more spins between rinses. As you know by now, the 1065 has a maddening number of rinse cycles, and only one 30sec spin after two rinses, then another short spin, after a third rinse, with a final spin after the fourth rinse. The 1918 has only three rinses IIRC, but spins after each one.
Mieles of the 1000 series had a morbid fear of suds locking, thus used the dilution method of rinsing.

No half load button. Miele ran adverts rubbishing Asko machines because the Miele Novatronics such as the 1918 automatically sensed load size and adusted water levels accordingly. However the half load funcion was still in 1918's,just called "Starch" when one used starch in the final rinse.

L.
 
Oh Yes,

My 1070 arrived smelling foul of mould with god only knows growing inside the drain/coin trap, around the detergent dispenser and the door boot was GROSS. Thank god ordered a new boot from Miele to be on hand when the Miele tech arrived to install my new toy. When he took the old boot off I was almost sick. Was going to keep it, until I saw the state, then quickly had it wrapped up and chucked into the rubbish bin outside. Took several long cycles of vinegar and baking soda to clean out the machine, especially what growing in the pump/drain. Even then for months afterwards would see bits of muck and god only knows what else floating out in the sink as the machine drained.

Do yourself a favour and run each machine with a good descaler (Miele sells some), designed for cleaning out boilers/European washing machines. Most people don't bother, and if they have hard water and or are using normal detergents/badly dosing you can have a build up problem on the heating elements which will cause premature failure.

L.
 
Water level fills are by Pressure switch

Hi Laundress,

I'm not sure what you mean when you say that the fill is controlled by time. The machine starts tumbling after the first water level on the switch is tripped, and then stops filling when the correct water level trips the switch again. If you listen, you should be able to hear the pressure switch click.

The machine tops up, as the fabric absorbs water, lowers the level of the water in the machine and resets the operating level of the pressure switch. When the clothes are fully saturated and dont absorb any more water, then the water level becomes static overall and no more water is added. The cooldown top up at the end of the main wash is also controlled by the pressure switch, rather than time.

I agree with the inability to change the cycle configuration. Unless the machine has done the first 2 dilution rinses and then spun, its impossible to try and skip ahead and get it to work properly. The machine behaves best when it's allowed to follow its programmed cycle. Its amazing how badly these early machines can sudslock.

On my W423, the Woolens cycle has the highest wash and rinse levels. If you load with the suggested 1.5kg of fabric, it basically floats in the water and doesnt tend to move too much. Laundress is right, the Delicates wash level is the same as the rinse level on cottons.

Sudsmaster, the machines from the mid eighties backwards, do sound a bit growly at times, its a sort of whirr that is different on the later fully electronic models. Could the Buzz be a whirr?

Congratulations on your acquisitions, they're great machines.

Nathan
 
Dood - Go Get It!

That is the cousin to my W1070. Difference is that the W1065 as you know has a glass porthole window, whereas mine is a solid door front.

Only holds 11lbs, but that is allot when you think about it, and water heating goes up to 200F! Cycles are a bit long compared to today's Miele washers, and not as quiet, but these mechanical Miele washers just keep on going. Whenever am speaking to Miele tech support or customer about my machine, they always tell me about how amazed they are so many of these units are still out there chugging away.

Operation is easy, and best of all because the machine is electronic with a mechanical timer, there are all sorts of fun work arounds. Oh, these babies use lots of water for washing and rinsing. The final rinse for cottons or permanent press is the same water level used for the "Woolens" cycle, and that is allot of water.

L.
 
You are correct ...you can hook the washer up to cold water only and let the machine do the heating. Seems like Miele prefers the hookup to cold anyways since to them it saves energy. Thats a handy feature to have if your hot water isnt up to par. My Miele washer and dishwasher say they can be hooked up to cold only if it has to be.
 
Have to look at my owner's manual, but IIRC two hoses must be connected (cold and "warm")water, regardless if one is going to use cold fills. My manual does state that one can use warm water fills to speed cycle times instead of heating cold water.

Remember these are timed fill (though will add water when it detects level drops)and like older mechanical dishwashers, the heating portion of the wash cycles is timed, rather than routed through a thermostat. Once the machine has reached the set temperature, you hear a loud "click" shutting off the the thermostat, but the timer will not advance until it is time. OTHO if the water is too cold and time has run out during the heating phase, the timer will advance, but the heating will continue until the proper temperature is reached.

To save on my electric, I almost always use warm fills,unless laundering really badly stained laundry. Even then will use a cold pre-wash then go over to "hot" wash cycle. When using machines of this vintage, you have to think like a 1980's housewife with the sort of products that were on the shelves then. By default the normal cottons, permanent press, and delicate cycle all have pre-washes. Miele changed this with the 1900 series to make pre-wash an optional cycle because modern detergents (Persil) and the great washing action removed the need for pre-washing. A wash starting from cold, or even cool or warm water and if need be going to hot will give great results these days.

This series of Miele washers has a thing about suds. They make all sorts of odd sounds if suds/air gets into the pump, so a word in your shell like ear; ditch any non "HE" detergents and stick with Persil. Gave away all my normal Tide products and only use Persil or other European detergents in my Miele and the results are spectacular. Clean and clear rinses (there are four of them, but only 1 half spin, 1 full spin between rinses, then a final spin), with great stain and soil removal.

One reason this series of Miele washers takes so long is that rinses are via dilution as mentioned above, and that before the final spin, there is a series of graduated spins for the normal "cottons" cycle. Mind you it does make sure that by the time final spin cycle starts, there is little chance of suds locking or too much water trying to enter the pump all at once, slowing down the cycle. Again, you will have much better results using Persil or a low/no suds detergent.

If you get the washer, I'm yours to pick for suggestions/tips.

L.
 
One down, one to go...

Well, fate intervened and I picked up a 1918 for $200 in Oakland this morning just now. It was not hooked up with no 220 available, so at this point I don't know if it works or not, but it is in good condition exterior wise. Still planning on getting the 1065... when it rains, it pours.

Here's a shot of the 1918, still on the appliance dolly:

9-29-2007-13-07-18--sudsmaster.jpg
 
Wired for 3 prong power

Odd plug, I'll have to replace it anyway to run it off the outlets in the shop... at that point I'll find out if they simply omitted the ground wire or rewired it for 110 (don't know if the Novitronics can do 110 tho)...

9-29-2007-13-09-15--sudsmaster.jpg
 
So far, so good...

Rewired the plug for the W1918 to something my shop outlets can handle. Powered up just fine. Door unlocked. Checked coin trap, clean as a whistle - good sign. If the washer had been malfunctioning, it probably would have been sudsy or smelled bad. Inner drum clean as well.

Set it to do a 1600 rpm spin. Very quiet, went through its routine just fine. Shut off normall at end. Pump is a little odd sounding, but perhaps that's normal? Will find out soon enough once I hook up a "Y" and a hose from the nearest muni cold tap (don't want to use well water). The 220 requirement means it's not so easy to set this up in the yard, although I do have an awesome 220 volt extension cord gadget on a big rolling crank wheel, but with range outlet, not dryer/twistlock 220 outlet. But I can cobble something together for more washing in the sunshine action ;-).
 

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