More congrats on a very cool looking set!
Miele W1065
- Thread starter sudsmaster
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Thanks Greg. Been printing out the owner's manuals from the Miele site. Don't understand why more mfg's don't make their manual available in this way.
Congratulations again Rich! It's quite a weekend for you. That's a very nice set. The washer is wonderful to play with! The dryer isn't the exact match to your washer, actually it matches the W1070 that Cimberlie has. Here's a picture of the W1070, just for the record.
Thanks, Louis.
Got the W1065 hooked up this afternoon. Here's a shot of the serial plate, as Launderess requested. I downloaded the manual from Miele, and this model is capable of being hooked up to 110 only. More on that later.
Got the W1065 hooked up this afternoon. Here's a shot of the serial plate, as Launderess requested. I downloaded the manual from Miele, and this model is capable of being hooked up to 110 only. More on that later.
Side by side...
It's not pretty, but it works. I'm referring to the bucket with the sump pump in it. LOL. Not to mention the garden hose delivering cold water only.
Ran a load of bath sheets (3) just to test the 1065 out. Used a very small amount of old style Sears HE Plus with STPP. It just kept on sudsing throughout all the rinses. Didn't see that problem using even more of the Sears HE/Oxyclean (new purchase) in the 1918. So maybe the 1065 has a lot of built up detergent, or the towels had a lot of left over Safeway liquid HE, or the Sears HE Ultra sudses more than the Oxyclean version, or maybe all three.
The 1065 uses far more water for the rinses than the 1918. On the other hand, the 1918 does more spins between rinses.
It's not pretty, but it works. I'm referring to the bucket with the sump pump in it. LOL. Not to mention the garden hose delivering cold water only.
Ran a load of bath sheets (3) just to test the 1065 out. Used a very small amount of old style Sears HE Plus with STPP. It just kept on sudsing throughout all the rinses. Didn't see that problem using even more of the Sears HE/Oxyclean (new purchase) in the 1918. So maybe the 1065 has a lot of built up detergent, or the towels had a lot of left over Safeway liquid HE, or the Sears HE Ultra sudses more than the Oxyclean version, or maybe all three.
The 1065 uses far more water for the rinses than the 1918. On the other hand, the 1918 does more spins between rinses.
Bingo
Same as with my W1070, your Miele can run on 120v power, from a 20amp circut. You need to contact Miele for the special power cord however. Basically one is only engaging one heating element (1500w), so anyting above 140F is going to take a long time, and that is from warmish to cool water,don't even think about starting from cold water. Honestly if you have any intentions of using the higher boiling wash temperatures, stick to 220v power if possible.
Same as with my W1070, your Miele can run on 120v power, from a 20amp circut. You need to contact Miele for the special power cord however. Basically one is only engaging one heating element (1500w), so anyting above 140F is going to take a long time, and that is from warmish to cool water,don't even think about starting from cold water. Honestly if you have any intentions of using the higher boiling wash temperatures, stick to 220v power if possible.
Here's a shot of the plug I'm using to connect all three machines (two washers, one dryer). I'm using this style because it matches most of the 220 outlets all over the workshop. It's rated at 30 amps, 220 volts, twist lock style.
Cimberlie,
I have lots of 220 outlets in the workshop, so 110 operation is not an issue at this time. If I were to move the washer to a location in the home without 220, I might look into the conversion. But it might be easier (for me) just to extend a 220 volt line to the new location.
I have lots of 220 outlets in the workshop, so 110 operation is not an issue at this time. If I were to move the washer to a location in the home without 220, I might look into the conversion. But it might be easier (for me) just to extend a 220 volt line to the new location.
Thanks, Cimberlie.
One of the Miele manuals says to use a descaler product called "Quick" which is, of course, available from Miele. I'll check with our local Miele dealer to see if they carry it.
The 1918 has four rinses. One can reprogram it to add a fifth rinse to the cottons cycle, and also for the Rapid wash. Also, one can reprogram the machine to have higher rinse levels in the cottons program.
The 1065 manual lists the water consumption of various cycles. They are all significantly more than what I observed running a rather small load on the 1918. This is also what I observed when running the 1065 through a short cottons wash this afternoon. The 1918 used less than 20 gallons for the entire long (1:56) cycle. The 1065 must have used about 30 gallons (as confirmed by the manual). This is of some importance to me right now because I have to run the sump pump manually to prevent the 20 gallon muck bucket that is acting as a drain-less laundry sink from overflowing. Eventually I'll figure out a way to extend a drain to the wall where the washer collection is "gathering". I suppose in the meantime I could use a larger bucket ;-).
I still have somewhat mixed feelings about getting so many Mieles all at once. The 1918 probably would have been more than enough. But I'm looking forward to opening one of them up and taking a personal look at the engineering and construction.
One of the Miele manuals says to use a descaler product called "Quick" which is, of course, available from Miele. I'll check with our local Miele dealer to see if they carry it.
The 1918 has four rinses. One can reprogram it to add a fifth rinse to the cottons cycle, and also for the Rapid wash. Also, one can reprogram the machine to have higher rinse levels in the cottons program.
The 1065 manual lists the water consumption of various cycles. They are all significantly more than what I observed running a rather small load on the 1918. This is also what I observed when running the 1065 through a short cottons wash this afternoon. The 1918 used less than 20 gallons for the entire long (1:56) cycle. The 1065 must have used about 30 gallons (as confirmed by the manual). This is of some importance to me right now because I have to run the sump pump manually to prevent the 20 gallon muck bucket that is acting as a drain-less laundry sink from overflowing. Eventually I'll figure out a way to extend a drain to the wall where the washer collection is "gathering". I suppose in the meantime I could use a larger bucket ;-).
I still have somewhat mixed feelings about getting so many Mieles all at once. The 1918 probably would have been more than enough. But I'm looking forward to opening one of them up and taking a personal look at the engineering and construction.
Nathan,
Yes, do understand that the washer will continue to fill until the proper level is reached, even once the timer has started the machine to tumbling, IIRC even mentioned that in one of my posts. What the washer will not do is add more water say in cottons, if one has the 1/2 load button pressed and the machine as finished filling and begun washing. From my experience even when the load requires more water, and the 1/2 load button has been or was depressed, the washer will not add more water even after the cycle has started. Never could stand the noise made by the pump under those conditions to wait long enough to see if machine would rectify the situation on it's own.
Suds:
The descaler Miele sends me just as "Miele" on the box. When I do the wash tomorrow, will take a closer look at the box in question.
Don't feel guilty about having "too many" Miele washers. Miele will soon be discontinuing the 220v washers in the United States, from what one has heard, and even now the 1918 is highly sought after by some. Worst comes to worst you can clean up the W1065 and after marking it up, sell it on. After all it is a very RARE 120v Miele washing machine. Built to those 1980's tank like construction.
Leave us not be too hasty, play around with both units and see which one you like best. You can always move one indoors for use with or instead of the Neptune.
Yes, do understand that the washer will continue to fill until the proper level is reached, even once the timer has started the machine to tumbling, IIRC even mentioned that in one of my posts. What the washer will not do is add more water say in cottons, if one has the 1/2 load button pressed and the machine as finished filling and begun washing. From my experience even when the load requires more water, and the 1/2 load button has been or was depressed, the washer will not add more water even after the cycle has started. Never could stand the noise made by the pump under those conditions to wait long enough to see if machine would rectify the situation on it's own.
Suds:
The descaler Miele sends me just as "Miele" on the box. When I do the wash tomorrow, will take a closer look at the box in question.
Don't feel guilty about having "too many" Miele washers. Miele will soon be discontinuing the 220v washers in the United States, from what one has heard, and even now the 1918 is highly sought after by some. Worst comes to worst you can clean up the W1065 and after marking it up, sell it on. After all it is a very RARE 120v Miele washing machine. Built to those 1980's tank like construction.
Leave us not be too hasty, play around with both units and see which one you like best. You can always move one indoors for use with or instead of the Neptune.
phase change and time outs
Actually, Miele washers of that vintage do have a built-in time out on the fill. Yes, if the water pressure sensor indicates that the proper level has been achieved the timer will advance. But these machines still only alloted a given span of time for filling. No feedback from the sensor within that time span and the machine went into it's famous click, clack, click program, bringing the timer back to stop. The schematic packed with these machines as well as the instruction manual has clear instructions on how to deal with very low water pressure.
At least in Germany, Miele's de-scaler is a mixture of citric and a second acid (Ameisensaeure, don't know the English name but think it is 'formic' as in Ant) together with some buffers, etc. Vinegar, at least on my most modern Miele is Verboten!
I don't recall whether it was me or someone else who made that statement about the '2-phase'. If it was me, sorry! I have tried to block that ridiculous bit of queenly bitchiness out. I teach technical terminology to, among others, electrical engineers in Munich, but try to speak like a normal person. What a horrid thought that I could be so catty. Again, dear lady, my apologies. Every normal person uses words which only the PC-Police object to. Two-phase instead of split-phase. Neutral instead of the 'Grounded (not Grounding)' wire, etc.
I strongly suspect those dear souls strike out the plus and minus signs on their batteries and paint them onto the 'correct' ends...
Actually, Miele washers of that vintage do have a built-in time out on the fill. Yes, if the water pressure sensor indicates that the proper level has been achieved the timer will advance. But these machines still only alloted a given span of time for filling. No feedback from the sensor within that time span and the machine went into it's famous click, clack, click program, bringing the timer back to stop. The schematic packed with these machines as well as the instruction manual has clear instructions on how to deal with very low water pressure.
At least in Germany, Miele's de-scaler is a mixture of citric and a second acid (Ameisensaeure, don't know the English name but think it is 'formic' as in Ant) together with some buffers, etc. Vinegar, at least on my most modern Miele is Verboten!
I don't recall whether it was me or someone else who made that statement about the '2-phase'. If it was me, sorry! I have tried to block that ridiculous bit of queenly bitchiness out. I teach technical terminology to, among others, electrical engineers in Munich, but try to speak like a normal person. What a horrid thought that I could be so catty. Again, dear lady, my apologies. Every normal person uses words which only the PC-Police object to. Two-phase instead of split-phase. Neutral instead of the 'Grounded (not Grounding)' wire, etc.
I strongly suspect those dear souls strike out the plus and minus signs on their batteries and paint them onto the 'correct' ends...
According to my dictionaries Ameisensäure is indeed Formic Acid.
I had this machine. The new motor, which is cast iron, in 2003 was $750.00 which is why I do not still have the machine. It was a beauty. Itty bitty short short spin after the second rinse. Longer spin after the 3rd rinse.
$750 for a motor is a bit steep, esp since the entire machine cost about $1500, or less, new. One could probably get a new motor for a Frigmore for $75.
Suds, Costwise, I figured the same thing. The motor contained two motors in one, half for tumble and half for spin. You cannot compare any part of the Miele with the Electrolux-made FriGEmores. The entire cabinet of the Miele, inside and out is porcelain. The top, of course, is not.
Yuck Fest
OK, Launderess, I truly believe you about all the MUCK that an old Miele can accumulate.
I did a load of work duds in the 1918 tonight. That went fine, more about that in another post. While it was running, I started poking around the W1065 to try to figure out why the detergent drawer was jamming and why the safety latch wasn't catching.
Eventually I just pulled the whole thing and brought it to the kitchen sink for a good scrubbing. Every part I poked, some mold or slime came out. Yecch. The worst was the fabric softener channel at the bottom of the drawer. It was completely plugged with a combination of white slime and black mold. Awful. Well, at least it didn't stink. But some pretty big globs came out during the washing.
For the latch issue, I poured boiling water in a glass mug, and then stuck the little red plastic latch assembly in that. Once it was hot, I bent the spring portion open a bit, and then ran it under cold water until it set.
The end result was a much cleaner drawer, minus globs of curdled softener and mold, which now slides in and out of the washer smoothly, stopping when the red safety latch catches like it's supposed to.
The rest of the washer will need a good going over with a descaler, I'm sure.
OK, Launderess, I truly believe you about all the MUCK that an old Miele can accumulate.
I did a load of work duds in the 1918 tonight. That went fine, more about that in another post. While it was running, I started poking around the W1065 to try to figure out why the detergent drawer was jamming and why the safety latch wasn't catching.
Eventually I just pulled the whole thing and brought it to the kitchen sink for a good scrubbing. Every part I poked, some mold or slime came out. Yecch. The worst was the fabric softener channel at the bottom of the drawer. It was completely plugged with a combination of white slime and black mold. Awful. Well, at least it didn't stink. But some pretty big globs came out during the washing.
For the latch issue, I poured boiling water in a glass mug, and then stuck the little red plastic latch assembly in that. Once it was hot, I bent the spring portion open a bit, and then ran it under cold water until it set.
The end result was a much cleaner drawer, minus globs of curdled softener and mold, which now slides in and out of the washer smoothly, stopping when the red safety latch catches like it's supposed to.
The rest of the washer will need a good going over with a descaler, I'm sure.
Do yourself a favour; take the detergent drawer all the way out, then shine a flashlight inside the compartment. You'd be surprised how much and what can grow back there, especially if previous owners/users were generous with detergents such.
One thing about the 10** series I do not like, is some powders do not totally dispense completely during the wash fill. Found this out when out of nothing better to do during one wash, took the drawer out and peeped. Got so bad used to squirt water back there with a turkey baster to flush the remaining detergent down into the washer. Now I just wait a second or two after the machine has started filling, carefully pull the drawer out and dump whatever powder detergent right down the chute. One probably could just pour detergent into the drum, but often use either oxygen bleach or detergents like Persil that contain bleach and am very afraid of causing stains or bleach spots.
Granted the first rinse fill will flush any remaining detergent down into the tub,but what is the good of that when the wash cycle is over?
L.
One thing about the 10** series I do not like, is some powders do not totally dispense completely during the wash fill. Found this out when out of nothing better to do during one wash, took the drawer out and peeped. Got so bad used to squirt water back there with a turkey baster to flush the remaining detergent down into the washer. Now I just wait a second or two after the machine has started filling, carefully pull the drawer out and dump whatever powder detergent right down the chute. One probably could just pour detergent into the drum, but often use either oxygen bleach or detergents like Persil that contain bleach and am very afraid of causing stains or bleach spots.
Granted the first rinse fill will flush any remaining detergent down into the tub,but what is the good of that when the wash cycle is over?
L.
I have looked inside the drawer cavity, and while it's a bit grungy, it's nowhere near as disgusting as the drawer channels were.
This reminds me. I'll have to check with my local Miele dealer to see if he has any descaler solution. If not, I have plenty of white distilled vinegar.
This reminds me. I'll have to check with my local Miele dealer to see if he has any descaler solution. If not, I have plenty of white distilled vinegar.
You can order the descaling powder directly from Miele via their 1-800 number. IIRC one contacts either "parts" or "tech support".
You might be better off using the Miele powder, as it will tackle the job of really cleaning out god only knows what is inside the washer (no offence), while not causing any harm.
L.
You might be better off using the Miele powder, as it will tackle the job of really cleaning out god only knows what is inside the washer (no offence), while not causing any harm.
L.
Miele Descaler
Ok lads, here is what the packet from my laundry product stash states:
Reckitt Benckiser Serivce
Miele 436001
Schnellentakalker/Quick Acting Decalcifier
Contains:
Less than 5% Nonionic Surfactants
Citric Acid, Maleic Acid
You pour the product into the washer, let it run a short wash program at 60C with at least 3 three rinses.
Apparently this product is also used in dishwashing machines, which leads me to believe it is nothing more than our "Dishwasher/Washing Machine" Magic sold for the same purposes.
L.
Ok lads, here is what the packet from my laundry product stash states:
Reckitt Benckiser Serivce
Miele 436001
Schnellentakalker/Quick Acting Decalcifier
Contains:
Less than 5% Nonionic Surfactants
Citric Acid, Maleic Acid
You pour the product into the washer, let it run a short wash program at 60C with at least 3 three rinses.
Apparently this product is also used in dishwashing machines, which leads me to believe it is nothing more than our "Dishwasher/Washing Machine" Magic sold for the same purposes.
L.
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