Miele W1070/T1050

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

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peterh770

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Apr 20, 2009
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Location
Marietta, GA
I just got a lead on a Miele 1070 washer and 1050 dryer (copywrite on the operating manual says 1986). Just read the operating instructions from the Miele website, but this model does not have a porthole window.

Anyone have comments on these models?
 
Whadda Want To Know? *LOL*

Have had my 1070 for awhile now and wouldn't be without. Somewhat long cycle times, but since the timer is mechanical, that can be easily managed.

Machine will easily do a "boil wash", at 200F, but rarely use temps that high.

Uses lots of water for both washing and rinsing, and over all gives good performances.

IIRC, Sudsmaster has one or two of the same model, or the one with a glass porthole.

Don't have the dryer, so cannot help you there.

Anyother questions, just ask.

L.
 
I've got three of the porthole version, W1065.

It's a good machine, but mostly I use a 4th machine, a W1918, which goes "only" up to 170F but that's more than enough. I like the W1918 because it spins much faster (1600 rpm vs the 1100 rpm of the W1065/1070). But if I need to do a near boil wash there's always a W1065 handy ;-)...

For those who like to see lots of water in the drum... the W1065/1070 is your ticket.

I also have a couple of dryers... the matching dryer for the W1070 and another dryer that came stacked with one of the W1065's. Haven't ever powered the dryers up, tho. Use a Maytag gas dryer instead.
 
Ok, I thought that you two had this model, but wasn't sure. Also wasn't sure if there was a porthole model; I really don't need another washer, and without the window, I could really pass on it.

Does the standard converter box for the 1918 work for the 1070? This one doesn't have it.
 
I don't have a converter box for any of my Mieles. Well, I do have an Equator (I think) box but all it is, is a 30 amp dryer plug connected to a box with two 15 amp 220 volt outlets. I don't use it because I rewired my Mieles to plug directly into the 20 amp 220 volt outlets on my shop wall - which is a Hubbell twist-lock type connection. There really isn't any "conversion" going on in the adapter boxes - just splitting the 30 amp 220 volt supply into two 15 amp 220 volt outlets - with a circuit breaker for each one to maintain safety.
 

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