Miele W1213 (US) main power wiring--help

[cantare]

Just got a used USA model W1213 as a replacement for my failing 1918. It came with no power cable. I didn't expect this to be an issue since I have the cord from my 1918...a four-wire AWG10 NEMA 14-30. All four connectors were used on the old machine.

The newer machine has a main terminal block with only two spade lug connectors (L1 & L2) plus separate chassis ground. Yet the user manual for the W1213 refers to the same 4-wire 14-30 plug.

Does the 1213 simply use the two "hots" (ie, red/black, 240V difference) internally, and leave out the neutral (white)? Does polarity of red v black matter in this configuration?

 

[launderess]

Have you tried reaching out to MieleUSA tech support.

Know they are not what they once were, but just maybe.....

Also have you had a peek at the schematics which should trace out wiring. It should be just inside front of washer behind door.

Technical/service manual stays same thing about electrical connection. But obviously Miele made changes at some point.

https://cagrimmett.com/justanswer/W1113tech.pdf

 

[launderess]

"Does the 1213 simply use the two "hots" (ie, red/black, 240V difference) internally, and leave out the neutral (white)?"

Yes, I believe that is correct.

See: https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?79524

Or:

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2654468/240v-euro-washer-installation-questions

 

[cantare]

That second link does seem to indicate clearly that the neutral wire of the 4-wire plug is unused.

The "relay" box inside the machine (or whatever the module is that receives the 2 mains spade connectors) has one lug marked "L" and one marked "N". This suggests a polarity. I also found the paper wiring schematic, which merely shows "L1" and "L2" connecting here.

My interpretation is that these are the two 220V hots, but does it matter which way they're connected? Black to L and red to N? Will I fry something if I get these reversed? Or is polarity irrelevant for hot-hot, since (I think) they're just identical 220V rms sine waves, 180 degrees out of phase from each other?

The guy I got the machine from was using a 3-prong hookup with white and black only. Don't know what NEMA config it was.

I do understand I need to connect the 4th wire (safety ground) to the chassis, before anyone gets too worried about me.

 

[launderess]

Am sure someone who knows will chime in sooner or later.

But try sending a private message to RedCarpetDrew in link one provided previously. He's a top notch guy and since has similar situation may be able to answer your question.

 

[cantare]

Well, I hooked up the 2 hot legs (which I had finally convinced myself were interchangeable), tied off the neutral, grounded the chassis, took a deep breath, and flipped on the breaker. Just finished my first load.

The seller had insisted I should use the white neutral wire and make sure the polarity was correct. The 1918 I'm cannibalizing for the power cable makes liberal use of the neutral conductor, so I was expecting to do that, but with only 2 connections in the 1213 I couldn't see how you'd ever get anything but 120V if you did.

The attachment point is a general-purpose noise filter or conditioner, evidently (pic)...I guess its "neutral" marking is for 120V applications and didn't come from Miele, but it helped to confuse me further.

It looks like my 1918 and other 19xx washers are true dual-voltage, but Miele must have simplified things in the 12xx series, making it pure 240V, so that one could really run it off a 6-30 hot-hot-ground only.

I appreciate all the helpful and informative replies!

 

[launderess]

Early Miele Washers Sold In North America

Made liberal use of 120v/208v-240v power. Some components ran off 120v, others needed 208v-240v (mainly heating elements). This proves maddening for those of us with such machines as parts such as water solenoids are 120v, not the 208v-240v used by similar models sold in Europe.

IIRC 11XX and 12XX washers came after 19XX series and Miele obviously made some changes in terms of internal wiring/parts.

Seem to recall reading a post here in group that little to nil in 11XX or 12XX washers runs on 120v.

As a new member shall give my standard of provided advice; it pays to search archives of this wonderful group. Over years many, many members have contributed much valuable information. Some no longer post regularly, others have passed on from this earth, but never the less their contributions remain.

"I'll explain: this machine only uses 240V so, because each hot is at 180 degrees from each other (in frequency), the Hots cancel each other out. No Neutral is needed, as with regular 120V things. So, in my case although there are 4 wires on the plug end, inside only the Hots and Ground are connected. They tie-off the Neutral inside, therefore it does nothing. And, because the previous owner cut the plug off mine, I've actually replaced the plug with a NEMA L6-30--meaning it's only 3-wire but the plug has to be twisted to remove (that's what the "L" stands for: locking) it from the socket. Just as safe (actually safer) than what Miele supplies and it's only 3-wire."

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?44010

Glad you got things sorted! Happy washing!

 

[launderess]

This does a better explanation than one ever could...

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/33602/why-do-240v-circuits-not-require-neutral

Since your Miele washer has nothing inside which runs on 120v it can use 240v with two hots out of phase with each other. Each change of phase causes one wire to become the "neutral". This accomodates North American electrical grid where 240v is two 120v out of phase with each other.

OTOH in Europe where 240v power is usually supplied by one wire, there you do have a neutral, and of course ground.