Mixmaster disassembly of speed knob

[fltcoils]

I bought a NOS capacitor for my mixmaster model 7. It installs in the governor area under the speed dial knob on the back of the mixer.

Taking off the button on the knob I can see a nut that I'm assuming retains it. But how do you loosen it? The ID of the knob is too small for a socket to get in and fit around the nut. Plus the bolt the nut fits on has a slot in it.

I'm a tad hesitant to mess with it.

Any ideas, or scans of disassembly pages for the model 7 and 11 mixmasters? If I can find the procedure/tools for getting to the gov to replace the capacitor it would be great.

Thanks

 

[mixfinder]

Tool

Once in a great while you're lucky enough to have one turnout with the screw driver. I have Craftsman tools and my socket fits perfectly inside the black knob. The stem has the bearing on the end and it's adjusted to hold the armature in place. Once the screw is adjusted the nut is tightened to hold it in place. The 10-12 models are a breeze. Under the escutcheon is a screw. Be sure not to lose the stem that adjusts the speed by pressing on the switch. Go to Decodan's web site and you see the 11 taken apart.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

When I scanned my 7B user's manual and posted it here (and Robert created a permanent link to that post of scans for all to use. Thanks, Robert!!!), I had searched for 7B manuals for the fun of it. All I could find was a site that is selling a cd with Various model Mixmaster service manuals on one disk. They are supposed to be direct scans of the factory service manuals. I suppose if I had a bunch of them in a collection, it might be worth it. Someone here has to have the manuals...

RCD

http://www.davesrepair.com/pdfmanuals/MMmanpkgspcl.htm

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Speaking of the devil, this is the guilty party that may very well have started me down the dark path of vintage mixer collecting... LOL

RCD

 

[fltcoils]

Model 11C, pretty, but gunked up a bit

Thanks for the help. I found the speed adjustment quite sensitive. A 1/6 turn of the hex socket screw inside the rear speed knob makes a big change.

When cold the mixer won't go faster than 6, after warming up it will get up to 10. I've not taken the gearbox cover off.

Are there wicks under the front and rear oiler holes on a model 11? also, whats the hole for under the handle, not the 12 -clock position one, but the one at 10 o-clock when viewed from the front. It is a hole with a slot thru it. ???

I'm afraid of putting too much oil into it and then gunking up the brushes or governor contacts...

 

[mixfinder]

The Hole

The cover for the oil wick over the beater spindle. You can't really over oil this. The wick soaks up a lot. A few drops around the outer edge of the juicer port. There is no oil wick at the mid motor but there is an oil wick that surround the rear motor bushing. Most often this one fails due to over use and under oiling.

 

[fltcoils]

speed control knob, hysteresis

My model 7B has about 2 numbers hysteresis to the speed control knob. To set speed 3 one needs to turn to 5 etc. To slow down one must turn the knob down 2 numbers.

This is quite different from my model 11 which just goes to speed, and slows down, without any deadband to the control.

If I set to speed 5 on the model 7b it runs about the same as my model 11 does on speed 3, except... if i bounce the model 7B blender a bit on the stand, then it speeds up to a speed the same as 5 (on the 11). So I think the governor is sticking .

Will this heal itself with gradual oiling of the wicks, or is more drastic surgery needed?

thanks.

 

[mixfinder]

Model 7

The model 7 has a different speed control system and it is influenced by the tension of the set screw with the bearing in the center of the dial. I remove the bearing and heavily oil the wick. Replace the bearing and adjust it just until you hear the motor begin to slow or labor. Then back off just until it sounds healthy then tighten the nut that holds the speed dial in place. Now adjust the speed to achieve the problem speed on 1. Let the rest take care of itself. Nothing is harder on a mixer of any brand than infrequent usage. Using it often keeps the grease seals, bushing, bearings, and spindle keep the greases and oil well distributed. Older mixers may never hit the full RPMs at the highest speed and often not before warming up. I never let it bother me. If the bearings are squealing and the bushings aren't grinding, but down your screw driver, pick up the spatula and begin to enjoy using the mixer. No matter how many vitamins and glucosamine you pour into a 75 year old man he may never run a 1 minute miles. This mixer was made in 1940, it’s old.

 

[mixguy]

Genoise or sponge cake?

Kelly,

What are you making in your Mixmaster model 12? Looks like the batter of a genoise or sponge cake.

 

[mixfinder]

The reveal

For the person in my life who loves spongecake both baked and steamed.

 

[fltcoils]

Getting a charge out of my mixmasters

I finish oiling the 11C mixmaster, give it a sweeping brush off with the fingers and palm.

What was that! A buzzing sensation, like electricity?
The machine is off. Ah but it is plugged in.

I'm standing in wool socks on the basement concrete floor.
Try again, light brushing touch.
Yes a definite buzzing sticky sensation, somewhat like electricity.

Try other machine, model 7B.
Not chrome, but white paint.
Buzz, sticky sensation, like electricity.

This provokes some thought. How is the electricity conducting thru the paint?

I unplug both blenders
Sensation goes away. Both now feel smooth and dead.

So.... It is best to wear rubber covers for protection when using these older machines. All sorts of thoughts spring to mind. Like an episode of csi, "he was cooking el natural. There were these stainless steel cabinates. Grounding contact was made, here, at the top of the door.."

Ouch.

Do the off switches only break one side of the current to the the stator and armature? Considering that the plug is not polarized, then the house hot wire could be energizing the armature and stators even if it's off. If the mag wire insulation is a bit leaky after 65 years, then one might get a bit of leakage and thus a buzz.

Either way, do not lick the beaters while the thing is plugged in, even if it is off.
etc.

BTW, the grinder which fits a model 11 won't fit a 7B, much too short.

I also got most of the control hysteresis out of my 7B by oiling the knob and rear bearing. I also wiggled the knob around a bit.

 

[mixguy]

Current Leakage

I experienced the same thing (tingle) with my model 9 Mixmaster. You would have gotten shocked had you grounded the machine. I touched the stainless steel sink while touching my model 9 and got the shock. One thing you can do is rewire the machine with a ground wire and 3 prong plug. THERE IS A BROKEN WIRE OR LOOSE CONNECTION IN THE MOTOR SOMEWHERE.

The power units for model 9 and before and model 10 and after are different to fit the stand configurations and stand heights.