Mixmaster Junior Beaters

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tennblondie78

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
441
Location
Bowling Green, KY
Does anyone know where I can find beaters for Mixmaster Juniors? I have looked on eBay and Google, but haven't had any luck. I need 2 sets. Guess I
ll keep my eyes open in antique stores and flea markets...
 
Stephanie, can you post a photo of your Mixmaster Junior?  I have TONS of beaters in my not-so-secret-mixer-parts-stash here in Ogden and I am sure that I've a pair that will fit!
 
Thank you Paul and David!!! I have 2 Mixmaster Jrs., one chrome and one white. One has bent beaters and the other is missing them entirely. The paint on the white one is pretty rough, so I'm painting that one pink. :)
 
Wow - I have the exact same yellow Junior!  I'll dig out the 'beater box' and see what I can find for you.  
 
Darn it...

Well, I looked through my 'beater boxes' and found that I have several pairs of portable Mixmaster beaters, but for the later Junior models (the HM series!!).   D'OH!

 

Here are pictures of them and the mixer they fit, just in case anyone else may need a set.  

 

Stephanie, I'll keep looking though - they do turn up and when I find some, I'll let you know.  Sorry about that!!
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Paint mixer...

I have been dying to paint a few of my Mixmasters but i don't know how to do it well. Do you just use a rattle can? If so, which one? Thanks
 
Painting Mixmasters, or anything else that's small and m

To do this properly you'd first want to fully disassemble the Mixmaster. Then I'd sandblast or beadblast all traces of the old finish off and make sure no oily residues of any kind remain. Now you can spay paint the body with any color you'd like, and Rustoleum, Krylon, or any other similar product will work fine. The next step is key. Take the sprayed parts and place them in the oven, set the temp to about 250 degrees, and let it bake for a couple of hours. When you're done baking it dry take it out and run some cold tap water over it.(from the faucet, not ice water) At this point you'll have a very hard finish on the paint that goes all the way through to the base. It'll chip if you're careless and bang it around, but it won't scratch easily. There's a seller on eBay that sells reproduction decals for them, so this would be the time to apply one. Then you can clear coat it to seal the decal down. At this point I'd want to put it back in the oven to bake the clear coat, but having never used this method on anything with a decal applied to it I'd first do some experimenting baking clear coated decals to see if they can take the heat.

 

I've used this method many times on small painted items(electric fans, desk lamps and such)with excellent results. Now I've got a Mixmaster Junior in desperate need of a paint job that I've been looking forward to using it on, so hopefully I'll discover that a clear coated decal withstands the baking just fine, but we'll see. It may turn out that the clear coated decal can't be baked, in which case I'd apply the clear coat to the decal only and leave it at that.
 
I know some will object to this post but I will anyway..

I am all for DIY projects as much as the next guy but there are some things I won't mess with one of which is my vintage mixers.   When you're finished you'll have a product that may or may not look fantastic and may or may not look original depending on the paint you use and the decal you find an apply on line.  If your as fussy as I am about these things it will bug you every time you go to use it. 

 

You can shop for the paint (whatever kind of special paint you need to use) the decals, spend the time sandblasting (I agree this step is a must), painting, drying, coating or you can have someone do it for you who does this all the time.  This is a guy will not only paint it but fully refurbish the mechanicals including a new cord.  When you get it back it will be like the day it came out of the box and ready for another 60 years of service.

 

He has two services.  One is a full restore inside and full paint job outside.  The other is no paint service just a restore which might be good for the Chrome model.   I am about to send my Chrome Mixmaster junior in for a restore.  I am not affiliated with this guy at all.  He is someone I found online and I have used him on two of my MixMasters and he did a fine job.  At least check out his sight before you take on this project.

http://www.nelsonezy.com/Refurbish-Your-Mixmaster-JUNIOR-JUNIOR-Refurb.htm
 
I just painted

my white Mixmaster Junior pink and replaced the decal. I disassembled it, sanded, cleaned and sprayed it. Looks awesome. Soaked the head assembly in paint thinner to get all of the old grease out of the gears and packed it with fresh high temp grease. I cleaned everything with electro contact cleaner then put the armature in my drill and sanded it clean and smooth. Sanded and cleaned the brushes. Cleaned the switch and sprayed a light silicone spray for lubricant. I replaced the cord. Repainted the lettering on the handle; even painted the Sunbeam just for fun. I could have done it back completely like factory, but I decided not to which is unusual for me. Usually I do things completely original. There is no reason you can't do this yourself; they aren't complicated. If a girl can do it, you can too.
 
Holy crap!!

I stand corrected!!  Wow I am impressed!!  I wouldn't know where to start with all that.  I can disassemble and reassemble my dishwasher but don't know where to start with a mixer.  How did you learn all this?
 
"I stand corrected..." I wasn't meaning to correct you, I'm sorry if I came across "attitudey." :) I just hate to see people spend so much of their hard earned money on things like that, especially when I think that guy charges too much. I figured it out as I went along. If you go slow and take your time, you will see how it works. It really isn't as hard as it sounds. I promise. :) It's fun, you will learn and you have something you can be proud of in the end.
 
I meant no disrespect.

Sorry for sounding the way I did.  It was all pure admiration but just the crazy way I express myself at times. 

 

I am very impressed by what you did.  I don't know why tearing apart a dishwasher doesn't intimidate me but a mixer does.  I guess because I'm afraid it's something I'll get apart and then not be able to put back together.  I'd love to see pictures of the final product.  I was thinking about doing my white one in a pink color to match my stand mixer.
 
Ralph/chachp

Here's a write up I did a couple of years ago on Mixmaster Junior cord replacement. It should help out some if you ever decide to try it yourself. I posted a more complete write up on another one at Vacuumland, but since I'm not a paid member over there I can't find it. Unfortunately I didn't document the disassembly process here, but if you follow the reassembly steps in reverse you should be OK.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?43027
 
That looks easy enough to actually attempt.

Thank you posting this in such details.  I have a couple of questions that may seem really simple to others:

<ol>
<li>What kind of grease do you use in that Mixer?  Where would I buy it?</li>
<li>My eyes started rolling into my head in a couple of spots: </li>
<ol>
<li>You should be able to run them in by hand for the most part, but they’ll need to be tightened down properly before moving on to the next step, which is installing the armature and the phenolic plate that the brush assemblies are mounted on. If you look closely you can see the raised bosses on the inside of the motor housing that the phenolic plate will sit on.   I don't know what the armature and phenolic plate is.</li>
<li>To some this is probably a stupid question: After applying fresh lube to the bearing surface, the armature was lowered into position in the motor housing.  I'm not sure I know where to apply the grease.</li>
</ol>
<li>At that point it began to make sense again.</li>
</ol>
So I'm wondering if it would make better sense to me if I took it apart slowly and took lots of pictures for reference.  I might actually be able to do this.  My white one is pretty beat up on the outside but runs pretty well.  My Chrome one is clean as a whistle on the outside but doesn't run well.  They both have issues with the cords.

 

I guess I started somewhere playing with dishwashers and I learned through trial and error.  I should be able to do the same with this.  Thank you again.
 
Ralph/chachp

Here are a few of the photos I took when I disassembled and re-lubed the other Mixmaster Junior. They give a more detailed view of what's going on. In the first photo the armature is seen laying between the mixer body and the phenolic plate. This is the part of the motor that rotates under power and does the work of turning the beaters. In the second photo after lubing the rear bearing with sewing machine oil it's been lowered back into position. You can see the rear bearing down in the bottom of the mixers body in the very last photo. In the second photo the phenolic plate is now left sitting by itself in the foreground. Phenolic material is noncunductive, meaning it won't conduct electricity, so it's used frequently in applications such as this where you don't want current flowing directly between the two carbon brushes(those black rectangular objects with a square profile seen protruding from the brass brush holders mounted to the phenolic plate)

 

In photo three tape has been used to hold the carbon brushes back in their holders while the phenolic plate is put in place. Once it's installed the tape is simply removed.

 

In photo four the little flat steel nuts have been reinstalled, the two power leads have been connected to the brush holders, and the metal fan has been pressed back into place. Before installing the end plate, two blued steel washers slip over the armature shaft and rest on the shoulder seen just above the metal fan. One of these washers is flat, while the other has a wave pressed into it. The wavy one is actually a spring, so pay attention to their order on the shaft. You'll want to put them back the same way they came off.

As for the drive gear lube, in this case I got lucky. Very little of the grease that was present had hardened, so I removed what had hardened, redistributed the rest and returned it to service. The greatest source of drag on these machines comes from the two beater collars seen in photo number six. They fit inside of long bushings. Because of their diameter and length if the lube between the collars and the bushing has become gummy with age it will seriously bog down your little mixer. One indication of this is a machine that starts off very slow but gradually picks up speed as the gummy lube warms up. All of them will do this to a small extent, but with bad lube on these parts it's really extreme.

 

Finally just as an FYI, that guy that you sent your mixer to for rebuilding is the same guy that sells the decals on eBay.

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